cam chain tool

[His Dudeness]

Hey. I was wondering if anyone has replaced a cam chain what riveting tool did you use? Thanks

[red98]

reading the haynes manual,the thundercat has a split link    cant see why i would not work on the fazer 

[His Dudeness]

would probably work but i just wouldn't trust a split link

[red98]

would probably work but i just wouldn't trust a split link

yes ..i know what you mean......going back a few years,hondas twin cylinder cb 500 had a link,and i know of a few that failed  :eek ........but never heard of one failing on the thundercat 

[griff86]

I used a split link camchain on my 1st mk1, no probs on it after 20,000miles when I sold it.

I used my chain tool which came with smaller pins to press the cam chain together, will be doing it again to my latest mk1.

'Just to edit this I mean't to say the chain I used was an endless chain that I had to riveted together not a split link type'

[His Dudeness]

nice one griff. any chance you could stick up a link to the riveter you used?

[griff86]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Cha...2ebfbc699b

This is the one I have. It doesn't come with instructions but it almost identical to the Motion Pro chain tool so I downloaded their instructions.

[His Dudeness]

I'll probably get that one thanks . Would you have any tips on riveting the link or replacing the cam chain in general?

[red98]

with the split link in place you will be able to take the head off with out taking the cams out    the cams have access holes in them to reach the head bolts    same as the thunder cat 

[griff86]

I wouldn't take the head off to do it, another £60 on top of the job to replace the head gasket.

Its quite an easy job if you take ur time with it.

When the cams are off and the cam chain is split I reattatch the the new cam chain to the old one and feed it through the engine then rivet the new chain together. I find this is the easiest way to make sure the chain goes all the way round the bottom sprocket.

Just to see how much the old chain has stretched I measure the new one on a bench before fitting then compare that to the old one.

As for the tool link, I think this one is better,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCLE-CHA...5ae318b0f1

[red98]

I wouldn't take the head off to do it, another £60 on top of the job to replace the head gasket.

Its quite an easy job if you take ur time with it.

When the cams are off and the cam chain is split I reattatch the the new cam chain to the old one and feed it through the engine then rivet the new chain together. I find this is the easiest way to make sure the chain goes all the way round the bottom sprocket.

Just to see how much the old chain has stretched I measure the new one on a bench before fitting then compare that to the old one.

As for the tool link, I think this one is better,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCLE-CHA...5ae318b0f1

thought i would mention the fact that you could take the head off if you had a split link in the chain....an added bonus 
the way you have described how to replace the chain is indeed the best way,no need to remove the head  [size=78%]......think you could do it with the cams in place as well if you slide out the front chain tensioner [/size]

[His Dudeness]

yeah just doing the chain for now. its hard to know which riveter to get because there's quite a few different types and the prices vary quite a bit

[Deefer666]

I personally would never (and have never) used a split chain.... way too risky and to me it seems almost a botched job done that way.

[His Dudeness]

I personally would never (and have never) used a split chain.... way too risky and to me it seems almost a botched job done that way.

when you say you wouldn't use a split link would you include a riveted link as well?

[griff86]

I think what Deefer does(from what I've read on here)is to split the engine and fit an endless chain like the way it gets done in the factory, gives you the chance to check other parts of the engine are within tolerence.

[His Dudeness]

I think what Deefer does(from what I've read on here)is to split the engine and fit an endless chain like the way it gets done in the factory, gives you the chance to check other parts of the engine are within tolerence.

ah yeah i know. im not really setup for a full engine rebulid. i think most people use a riveted chain

[Bias]

Thought I'd jump in here as Ive just replaced my cam chain using a splitter/riveter like the one linked above.


It took me about 6 hours from taking the tank off to restarting the engine. The DID chain came pre split with a soft link rivet and the installation was painless. I did have help from my younger son, but only to help keep the new chain taut as it was fed down the front of the engine as I turned the engine over and pulled the old chain out the rear. It only took about 5 mins to actually do the rivetting.


I did consider a total engine split but decided against it purely cos of the amount of hassle involved.
I measured the new chain length prior to fitting and it turned out to be 3mm shorter than the old one. It may not sound a hell of a lot but the difference was instantly noticable as I started the bike. It purred rather than rattled and I counted the clicks on the CCT as it tightened the chain so I know theres a good few left.


I'd happily use a split chain again with a soft link

[markbubble]

my pal who races bikes(mostly fzr 400s) says if you thrashing the engine only use an endless chain or if you are doing a total engine rebuild  put an endless one in but for the average rider who doesnt go redline the bike everywhere a soft link should be fine,he says never at all use a split link in the chain !

[griff86]

Thought I'd jump in here as Ive just replaced my cam chain using a splitter/riveter like the one linked above.


It took me about 6 hours from taking the tank off to restarting the engine. The DID chain came pre split with a soft link rivet and the installation was painless. I did have help from my younger son, but only to help keep the new chain taut as it was fed down the front of the engine as I turned the engine over and pulled the old chain out the rear. It only took about 5 mins to actually do the rivetting.


I did consider a total engine split but decided against it purely cos of the amount of hassle involved.
I measured the new chain length prior to fitting and it turned out to be 3mm shorter than the old one. It may not sound a hell of a lot but the difference was instantly noticable as I started the bike. It purred rather than rattled and I counted the clicks on the CCT as it tightened the chain so I know theres a good few left.


I'd happily use a split chain again with a soft link

Good post that Bias.

[His Dudeness]

Thought I'd jump in here as Ive just replaced my cam chain using a splitter/riveter like the one linked above.


It took me about 6 hours from taking the tank off to restarting the engine. The DID chain came pre split with a soft link rivet and the installation was painless. I did have help from my younger son, but only to help keep the new chain taut as it was fed down the front of the engine as I turned the engine over and pulled the old chain out the rear. It only took about 5 mins to actually do the rivetting.


I did consider a total engine split but decided against it purely cos of the amount of hassle involved.
I measured the new chain length prior to fitting and it turned out to be 3mm shorter than the old one. It may not sound a hell of a lot but the difference was instantly noticable as I started the bike. It purred rather than rattled and I counted the clicks on the CCT as it tightened the chain so I know theres a good few left.


I'd happily use a split chain again with a soft link

yeah nice one so you used this type riveter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCLE-CHA...5ae318b0f1
and this chain http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_6...chain_did/
is that right?