Riding in the wet

[Pat]

Pr3's sorted ... according to write ups

+1

PR3s really are outstanding in the rain, to the point that knee down in the wet is possible (not by me though!). 

I've done about 6,000 miles on a set including a couple of  2,500 mile round trips to play on the passes in the Alps on my thou & not only have they been faultless even in torrential rain on poor roads, & somehow they still look like they have enough life left in them for at least another trip!  I don't recall ever getting much more than 6k out of a back tyre before.

[SEPTIKANGEL]

Not ridden an FZ600, mine's an FZS1000.
But FFS Jamie, a high (7k) rpm is not essential when cornering, whether on the 600 or 1000. Unless your really pushing, which is not usual on public roads, even nationals, is it, really?  Position, speed and gear, in that order (see Grahamm above) are the important roadcraft bits we should all be considering on approach, wet or dry.  Get your route correct for the corner, reduce your speed, either with brakes or deceleration in the gear you're already in, then select the right gear for the circumstances, which is usually lower.  In the wet, your not gonna want a lightning snappy reaction from your throttle otherwise if it's too responsive (7k?) you may lose grip as the rear wheel spins.  So YOU choose the gear that feels right for the bend (too may variables to be precise here) which will keep the bike under a state of 'constant' acceleration - which means not trying to do your best quarter mile time through the curve, merely keeping the cables tight, keeping the power 'on' until you see the bend opening up allowing you to feel braver and feeding on more throttle. Keeping it 'under power' keeps the back end 'squatting' - a desired condition for grip on the rear wheel innit!  We all get it wrong sometimes, me too and peeps say 'Don't use your front brake in a bend', but sometimes you might have to, 'specially if your dabbing the rear and your still not slowing enough,  Just don't grab a handful of front all of a sudden or you'll be kissing the tarmac quicker than you can say 'FOC-U' -  Smooooth is the key with all your movements and decisions in the wet.
And DRYROB, clutch should be left alone when negotiating the corner, not slipping it, if that's what you mean. Clutch would've been used to select the correct gear on approach, of course.  The bike should be just pulling, not coasting with clutch lever 'in' ... keeping the power constant, but not snappy, 'till you can see opportunity to move quicker safely. Suppose there's a degree of clutch slipping when negotiating 90 degree, main road into side street cornering though? Is that what you meant?
There's always good advice here, but if it's a genuine desire to improve your skills, get yourself a copy of the police manual, it's the safest way to ride fast, but not the fastest way, which is better left for the tracks.  Get on an advanced course too, but try to make an effort with the book first it'll make more sense, if you're serious, persevere and digest over time. 
Best of luck and here's to some sunshine for the rest of what's left of Summer 2012! 

[DryRob]

I'm not sure what I meant but I was clearly wrong  :lol

[SEPTIKANGEL]

I'm not sure what I meant but I was clearly wrong  :lol

:lol .........Not clearly wrong Rob, it was a good question that others may have been pondering, not just you.
There's a distinction between, Must not, Do not, avoid etc.  Highway code has these phrases backed up by legislation. Must not cross solid white's on your side, whereby broken white lines around hatch markings are 'avoid' ... (and there are always exceptions  :rollin
It's important when studying/learning with Roadcraft that while advice may be given against using front brake or changing gear when cornering, it's just that ....advisory.  There may be times when you need to change gear 'cos you misjudged your initial choice and 'specially in the wet, a careful and smooth downchange (with good clutch control!)  may be beneficial. 

[misterjayb1]

At end of the day it isnt a race... well not til wknd anyway  :lol

[Fazerider]

Jamie, it may be that your bike isn't as well fettled as it could be if you're suffering from a snatchy throttle response.
Are the carbs balanced?
Check you don't have excess slack in the throttle cables.
Make sure the chain is correctly adjusted and the cush drive rubbers aren't knackered.
Is it misfiring?
If they're all OK then one technique you may find useful for smoother riding is to drag the back brake slightly when cornering. Not to slow you down, just enough to keep the top run of the chain taut... that way, when you start to open the throttle, there isn't any slack to take up before the power arrives at the rear wheel.

[Fazerider]

(Apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs with that last suggestion, but some folks aren't aware of the value of the rear brake other than as "the one that can't throw you over the handlebars". )

[Grahamm]

This might highlight my inexperience but does clutch control come into any of this?

Not really (but it's not a silly question, however not asking it because you don't want to admit you don't know would be silly )

Clutch control pretty much only ever comes in at very low speeds, eg slipping it whilst keeping the revs up is useful for filtering slowly through traffic or when pulling out of T-junctions etc.

At speed, the clutch can smooth out the change when you're using engine braking, but these days that's only recommended for slowing down in slippery conditions, generally, when changing down you should dip the clutch, put in a touch more revs so the engine speed matches the road speed, then blend the clutch back in.

This avoids that sudden lurch when you take a lower gear, dump the clutch and the back wheel is suddenly running faster than the engine which could result in a destabilising lock-up, especially when it's wet.

[Jamieg285]

Jamie, it may be that your bike isn't as well fettled as it could be if you're suffering from a snatchy throttle response.
Are the carbs balanced?
Check you don't have excess slack in the throttle cables.

I'd been wondering about the throttle cables and adjustment, from the feel and having read other posts on here. Well there's definitely a problem now :\

Whilst looking at the throttle slack it appeared that the throttle wasn't returning properly.I pushed it a bit to try and see how much and it just kept going. Not sure exactly what I've done, but there is zero throttle return.

I've started to investigate, not sure if it's a problem with the lower cable or with the grip itself. Hopefully I'll work it out soon, as I can't use it till it's sorted.

[DryRob]

check your bar end weight, when I replaced mine the new one was catching the throttle grip a bit.

[Jamieg285]

check your bar end weight, when I replaced mine the new one was catching the throttle grip a bit.

Not sure if it was that end or the other, but I've cleaned both up and given them a good coating of vaseline for lubrication, and oiled the cables. Got it all back together and the throttle snaps back nicely and there's less free play too. Just need to see if that helps on the road...

[motodevcam]

I realise this is now a very old topic, however it's been really helpful so I thought I'd give it a natural bump.

I passed my unrestricted in July (17) I learned having never been in a bike before. As luck would have it not one of my lessons nor my test was in the wet. Since passing pretty much rained constantly. I've been really struggling in the wet and do d myself tensing up. It's got to the point where I'll just take the car of the roads are wet. This post has pushed me to get out!

Great forum this. Such a helpful bunch!!

[Hugh Mungus]

The key to riding more confidently in the wet is to.... ride in the wet!


The key points to remember are


If it has just rained (after a dry spell) the road will be slippery so take care. Go easy on acceleration and braking.
Roundabouts are notorious for being slippery in the wet.
Any junction near a petrol station will also be dodgy.


If it has rained for more than one day the roads will be cleaner but still take extra care at roundabouts.

[darrsi]

The key to riding more confidently in the wet is to.... ride in the wet!


The key points to remember are


If it has just rained (after a dry spell) the road will be slippery so take care. Go easy on acceleration and braking.
Roundabouts are notorious for being slippery in the wet.
Any junction near a petrol station will also be dodgy.


If it has rained for more than one day the roads will be cleaner but still take extra care at roundabouts.

Roundabouts, manhole covers, leaves, potholes, drunk people lying in the road, all things to keep you alert.
I often wonder if riding a bike is some sort of shitty challenge derived by some twisted bastard to see if you can survive the day?
As said, riding in the wet can only be properly mastered by riding in it. Watch any pizza delivery rider lean a bike over in shite conditions. Yes, i agree they're ever so slightly mad, and naive, but it's all about the hours spent on the road.
And again as mentioned, either after a good 2 or 3hrs downfall, or the next day, the rain does really clean the roads, so even though the roads are wet you will feel better grip. It's when it doesn't rain, and you get cold nights, like now, that the roads become hazardous, but you will get the feel for all that after a few years riding.
Add the obvious to the equation though, good reliable tyres. Don't scrimp on tyres (or brake  pads), they are your life line. I ride all year round as much as i can and good tyres that perform in the wet are a must for me. If you think you can save £40 or £50 by purchasing cheap tyres then you are being misled and will regret it, because your confidence in riding will go rapidly downhill. Add to that they'll wear quicker, unevenly, etc, so it becomes an issue all round.
Good reliable tyres, common sense and experience will make biking in the rain as pleasant as it can get.
Don't forget the Vee Wipe too, an invaluable piece of kit i simply can't do without!


https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=...e&_sacat=0

[Frosties]

Totally agree with everything Darrsi said - especially the V wipe.....a must have.


Another thing I sling under the seat or in the top box is a 2 piece cheap as chips waterproof oversuit. Yes I have spent hundreds on my Rukka Goretex gear which is totally waterproof but I rely on this if it starts to rain when I'm out.


I ride 365 to London and back. If it's raining before you leave then stick on the 2 -piece waterproofs. Far easier than trying to dry your sodden gear out for 8 hrs before you ride home again.


A 2 piece easy rolls up and fits under a Fazer seat. Do you look cool ?????, who gives a feck....it's raining.

Forgot to add - also means you don't have to wash your riding gear anywhere near as often to get rid of the winter crap and they retain being waterproof for longer.

[Bretty]

I pretty much ride exactly the same in the wet as I do in the dry. I just don't do max acceleration as the back wheel spins up, I avoid painted lines and metal work, and avoid heavy braking on the front tyre, as it does lock up a lot easier and can get away from you.
I don't go out icy condition.

[nick crisp]

I pretty much ride exactly the same in the wet as I do in the dry. I just don't do max acceleration as the back wheel spins up, I avoid painted lines and metal work, and avoid heavy braking on the front tyre, as it does lock up a lot easier and can get away from you.
I don't go out icy condition.

Quite differently then  :lol

[tommyardin]

[quote author=Bretty link=topic=3827.msg272543#msg272543 date=1513517791]
I pretty much ride exactly the same in the wet as I do in the dry. I just don't do max acceleration as the back wheel spins up, I avoid painted lines and metal work, and avoid heavy braking on the front tyre, as it does lock up a lot easier and can get away from you.
I don't go out icy condition.

Quite differently then  :lol
[/quote]


I went out on my bike about three years ago and it nearly rained and I could almost swear I got very, very slightly dampish but just maybe it was my imagination.


Don't do rain, I worked Self Employed (Brickie) on the building sites for 53 years sometimes in the sunshine but often in the rain, got soaked trying to earn a living, standing in the footings in 3 inches of water with your legs jammed up against the wet muddy sides of trenches with water trickling down between the cheeks of my arse. Steam coming up off you soaking wet back. Fuck riding in the rain. :rolleyes

[tommyardin]

Sorry wrong thread.

I reckon that Scotish ice cream has got a lot of Teachers in it.

[YamFazFan]

Don't do rain, I worked Self Employed (Brickie) on the building sites for 53 years sometimes in the sunshine but often in the rain, got soaked trying to earn a living, standing in the footings in 3 inches of water with your legs jammed up against the wet muddy sides of trenches with water trickling down between the cheeks of my arse. Steam coming up off you soaking wet back. Fuck riding in the rain. :rolleyes

People don't realise, unless they too do it, how hard that is working out in all weathers and the toll it takes on you, especially as you get older.

It's no joke out in the cold and wet all day. It runs you down.

Having said that I admire anyone that does ride all weather. I couldn't face it now.

Like you tommy I've spent all my working life so far outdoors. Not quite managed 53 years yet tho!.