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Renovating a fazer
#1
After doing some odds and ends on my 2001 fazer I have found some rust in places,as the original frame colour will not be an easy match I'm considering a complete strip down and get the frame sand blasted and repainted,but I will use a zinc undercoat and spray the frame with paint not powdercoat as I think paint is better and can be touched up,so how hard is it to strip the fazer down? I did it with a rd200 but that was a bit smaller and a bit easier,with that I used hammerite smoothrite black wich came out brilliant.also should I try to match the frame colour or go for a alloy look or a black look.i do intend to ride the bike this summer but hopefully I will get a house with a garage later in the year,I may get the wheels powdercoated though unless anyone can think of a better finish for the wheels
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#2
I have just stripped one & also had my wheels powder coated. They are fairly straight forward to take apart. I left the forks & front wheel in until the death so it remained upright on the centre stand whilst I removed everything else. Engine needs to come out in order to remove the air box which I thought was hilarious! You can leave the front sprocket on if you're worried about disturbing it. Just means the chain will stay with the engine when you drop it out.
Budget an extra 50 quid on top of powder coating for wheel bearings front & back. The old rear roller bearing will need to be cut out using a dremel or die grinder. New one needs to be pressed in or drawn/pulled in with a length of all thread & suitable large washers or sockets. Good luck removing your discs without chewing up the chocolate bolts. They are held in with thread lock & a real pain to get out. You may need to replace them when/if you get them out. If you can paint or know someone who can then obvioulsy bearings can just be masked off.
I might be tempted to leave it all until the winter if I were you as one job nearly always leads to three others & it ends up taking you much, much longer than anticipated.  :'(

Good luck with it.
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#3
(26-03-12, 01:11 AM)GrahamB link Wrote:The old rear roller bearing will need to be cut out using a dremel or die grinder. New one needs to be pressed in or drawn/pulled in with

Erm, can't this bearing be drifted out as normal? Reason I ask is that I'm doing mine soon and hadn't figured on having to use a grinder as part of the operation.
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#4
Not to my knowledge mate. Outer race is too fragile to drift & there is nowhere to hit it.  Sad
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#5

rs bike paints do the frame colour and it's an excellent match, 2 or 3 coats of lacquer bring it up to factory spec. Strangely that particular paint really doesn't want to dry, i had to leave a portable heater on it over night (yes, a whole night!) to get it to dry.

personally i paint my bike wheels, despite having an excellent (and cheap for cash) powder coaters just up the road. my logic is that when tyres and weights are changed the wheels are out of my control and if the powder coating finish is damaged it's all stripped back off to put right. when the paint is damaged i can mask up and blow in at home. i put on 3 coats of lacquer and they shine like crazy, better than the factory finish ever did!

i recall on the old forum one bike that was finished in white with a blue frame (like the triumph 675 limited edition at the time) that looked absolutely awesome! although personally i'd stick with the red that you have, it's my favourite.

food for thought?
is it clean enough?
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#6
i have always liked powder coating and now painters have to use water based paints there thinner and not as tough as the old 2 pack paint
so gonna stick with powder
www.Devilsyam.com (Fazerpedia)
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#7
The old rear roller bearing will need to be cut out using a dremel or die grinder. New one needs to be pressed in or drawn/pulled in with


I had to do the same (cut the outer casing with a dremmel) it was a bitch . I too thought that you may be able to drift it out from the back but the wheel shoulder is almost flush with the inside of the race & does,nt give you enough surface area to get a drift on
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#8
Even if you could get a drift on the rear bearing race Paul I think it would just buckle as soon as you hit it. Maybe that's why you can't?  :\
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#9
I have had it cut out each time by the local shop as i allways fail to remove it.
but it allways seems to go in ok
[Image: 82304.png]
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#10
dont get stung for the bearing like i did needed it in a rush £42 quid from flowlers m/c £8.00 from simply bearings well you live n learn

i used two 32mm wahers and a piece threaded bar to pull the bearing in square

tip

whilst the bearing is out dremel two oposing slots so next time will be easier to get out i do this to the headstock also but then i'm forever taking my bikes apart most at best will only do this once lol
www.Devilsyam.com (Fazerpedia)
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#11
(29-03-12, 07:14 AM)devilsyam link Wrote:dont get stung for the bearing like i did needed it in a rush £42 quid from flowlers m/c £8.00 from simply bearings well you live n learn

i used two 32mm wahers and a piece threaded bar to pull the bearing in square

tip

whilst the bearing is out dremel two oposing slots so next time will be easier to get out i do this to the headstock also but then i'm forever taking my bikes apart most at best will only do this once lol
I had a problem when I did the steering head bearings on a fj1200,I managed to make up a tool that allowed me to drift the bearing out,this tool on eBay ,item no 170796557529 which is similar to the Yamaha tool,I may purchase a one of these in the future as it may save a lot of work and time
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#12
These people offer a fantastic service as many on here will already know.

http://shop.marksman-ind.com/ya001-rear-...2-20-p.asp
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