Fazer 1000 Jet kit / EXUP

[fazerscotty]

Thanks for your reply. I’ll restore the EXUP, set the ignition advance to +4°, and repair the carburetors. After that I’ll start thinking about tuning.

Could someone advise on replacing the fuel filter? It’s located inside the tank. Are there any equivalents from MANN or Knecht that I can easily buy in Europe and that will fit, or is OEM the only option?

Washable gauze strainer inside tank on the petcock or fuel tap as we call em in the UK, buy a tap service kit first to future proof it.

The actual fuel filter is an inline type, located behind right side panel (under right leg when sat on the bike), use a Genuine filter, most pattern filters use the wrong diameter outlets, replace it annually to avoid carb blockages.
Re: Air filters, Genuine Yamaha paper filter, or a quality pattern paper filter like Hi-flo is the best option imho.
Washable filters, K&N etc aren't the quality they once were, Sprint filters are better made, Pipercross are crap, bits come off em & go thru the carbs.
My bike's got an Ivans MB kit, ported carb rubbers & modified airbox lid, sports exhaust can & it defo idles & runs better with a paper filter, butt dyno can't tell the difference from paper or washable, i was constantly fiddling with the idle settings with a washable filter, idle was all over the place.
Fitted a Genuine Yam paper filter, bike runs & idles better.

Some fit a 4 degree advance rotor, made my bike unrideable below 3,000rpm, never again.

@Gaz66 - do you have any good pictures of the airbox lid mod or even a drawing?

Cheers
fs.

[fazerscotty]

Thanks Gaz - looks like a work of art lol.

[Gaz66]

Thanks for your reply. I’ll restore the EXUP, set the ignition advance to +4°, and repair the carburetors. After that I’ll start thinking about tuning.

Could someone advise on replacing the fuel filter? It’s located inside the tank. Are there any equivalents from MANN or Knecht that I can easily buy in Europe and that will fit, or is OEM the only option?

Washable gauze strainer inside tank on the petcock or fuel tap as we call em in the UK, buy a tap service kit first to future proof it.

The actual fuel filter is an inline type, located behind right side panel (under right leg when sat on the bike), use a Genuine filter, most pattern filters use the wrong diameter outlets, replace it annually to avoid carb blockages.
Re: Air filters, Genuine Yamaha paper filter, or a quality pattern paper filter like Hi-flo is the best option imho.
Washable filters, K&N etc aren't the quality they once were, Sprint filters are better made, Pipercross are crap, bits come off em & go thru the carbs.
My bike's got an Ivans MB kit, ported carb rubbers & modified airbox lid, sports exhaust can & it defo idles & runs better with a paper filter, butt dyno can't tell the difference from paper or washable, i was constantly fiddling with the idle settings with a washable filter, idle was all over the place.
Fitted a Genuine Yam paper filter, bike runs & idles better.

Some fit a 4 degree advance rotor, made my bike unrideable below 3,000rpm, never again.

@Gaz66 - do you have any good pictures of the airbox lid mod or even a drawing?

Cheers
fs.

..........................
If you Google FZS1000 airbox mod, my pics come up, obviously I'm now famous ?

               

[Gnasher]

  Nothing to do with owners mangling airboxes - just a manufacturing issue at K&N.

Straight from Ivan's web page:
You must have our MB kit or Pod filter kit to get the advertised gains - works with slip-ons and full system equipped bikes...

No jetting changes needed when using these ported intake boots with our carb kits
These kits were the result of 6 months of testing and were designed into 2 kits:

One for stock un-modified airfilter cover & OEM paper air filter, and another for a modified air filter cover w/ K&N or BMC air filter.

It's owners doing the above mentioned MOD (recent pictures posted) and screwing it up that I'm referring to.  Personally I've never had an issue fitting a K&N OE replacement filter into a OE air box. Only where someone has tried to do the mod and buggered it up! Or they've removed the PODs and replaced the Std air box with the buggered MOD, any Std filter moves, because of the buggered MOD work.  

Also I'm referring to OE replacement filters in my previous NOT pod filters. In fact you can fit a K&N OE replacement filter to the air box without modding the lid, but if you want all the gains from the Ivan's kit the box lid must be modded.

Again straight from Ivan's web page:

THE TRUTH IS, PODS FILTERS WON'T MAKE ANY MORE PEAK HP THAN THE AIRBOX ON THIS BIKE.THIS PROOF CAN BE SEEN ON OUR Web page

So those who've removed the air box fitted direct pod/trumpet filters to their carbs have wasted your money!

If Ivan recommends DNA, listen to the man.   

Straight from Ivan's web page:

Part # FZ-0102MB...$120.00 For off road use only
Requires K+N or BMC air filter

He recommends the above filters no mention of issues with K&N. I'm certain if this so called issue with K&N POD or otherwise filters was real, he'd know about it?  Bering in mind he's stating there's no more gains using POD filters!
 
From what I've seen on here the examples weren't genuine K&N and the rest is just others personal preferences nothing more.  

The originator of this thread Vitman just wants to get his bike running better in as close to possible standard trim, i.e. working EXUP, and as we all know he bike runs way better with a MB Ivan's jet kit, running an air box with a K&N or other high flow filter.  

As nearly always people start jumping on and going up the full monty tuning route, hence this thread has gone way beyond what he wants or probably needs. Now if he wants the full tuning route, well that's another matter, but POD filters as proved are a waste of time and money.  Stick with a properly modded air box.   

That's it for me, listen or don't your money your choice.

[b1k3rdude]

Hi everyone. I’ve recently become a happy owner of a 2005 FZS1000. The bike is awesome, and I’d like to improve it further. Unfortunately, when I went to service the EXUP system, I discovered that the valve had been removed and the muffler welded.

Do yourself a favour and restore the EXUP valve, servo and cables. The FZS1000 will not run properly with a non-working EXUP valve.

[b1k3rdude]

Ive done a cleanup of the thread, stay on topic and keep the drama to a minimum or the thread will be locked.

[vitman]

Today I finally bought the manifold with the valve complete. It cost me 80 euros including shipping. I’ll try to install it as a whole, or otherwise fit the parts into mine

Or r1 rn04 2000-2001 manifold not fit 100% ?
I don’t really understand these R1 versions. From what I assume, the RN04 is still the old R1?


https://ebay.us/m/EV0jLk

Is it worth installing new aftermarket EXUP cable?

[Gnasher]

Today I finally bought the manifold with the valve complete. It cost me 80 euros including shipping. I’ll try to install it as a whole, or otherwise fit the parts into mine

https://ebay.us/m/EV0jLk

Is it worth installing new aftermarket EXUP cable?

That's great news I hope it's not seized, be careful undoing the bolts.  Be sure to fully service the valve before you fit it, plenty of vids on line on how too.  Check your cables for operation first mostly a good oil and they're fine.  If not operating properly replace them.  Have you got/ checked the servo?

[vitman]

I still have the electric motor, and when I start the engine it moves, so I guess there’s no issue with it. But the cables near the EXUP are cut, so I’ll have to buy new ones

[Falcon 269]

  Nothing to do with owners mangling airboxes - just a manufacturing issue at K&N.

Straight from Ivan's web page:
You must have our MB kit or Pod filter kit to get the advertised gains - works with slip-ons and full system equipped bikes...

No jetting changes needed when using these ported intake boots with our carb kits
These kits were the result of 6 months of testing and were designed into 2 kits:

One for stock un-modified airfilter cover & OEM paper air filter, and another for a modified air filter cover w/ K&N or BMC air filter.

It's owners doing the above mentioned MOD (recent pictures posted) and screwing it up that I'm referring to.  Personally I've never had an issue fitting a K&N OE replacement filter into a OE air box. Only where someone has tried to do the mod and buggered it up! Or they've removed the PODs and replaced the Std air box with the buggered MOD, any Std filter moves, because of the buggered MOD work.  

Also I'm referring to OE replacement filters in my previous NOT pod filters. In fact you can fit a K&N OE replacement filter to the air box without modding the lid, but if you want all the gains from the Ivan's kit the box lid must be modded.

Again straight from Ivan's web page:

THE TRUTH IS, PODS FILTERS WON'T MAKE ANY MORE PEAK HP THAN THE AIRBOX ON THIS BIKE.THIS PROOF CAN BE SEEN ON OUR Web page

So those who've removed the air box fitted direct pod/trumpet filters to their carbs have wasted your money!

If Ivan recommends DNA, listen to the man.   

Straight from Ivan's web page:

Part # FZ-0102MB...$120.00 For off road use only
Requires K+N or BMC air filter

He recommends the above filters no mention of issues with K&N. I'm certain if this so called issue with K&N POD or otherwise filters was real, he'd know about it?  Bering in mind he's stating there's no more gains using POD filters!
 
From what I've seen on here the examples weren't genuine K&N and the rest is just others personal preferences nothing more.  

The originator of this thread Vitman just wants to get his bike running better in as close to possible standard trim, i.e. working EXUP, and as we all know he bike runs way better with a MB Ivan's jet kit, running an air box with a K&N or other high flow filter.  

As nearly always people start jumping on and going up the full monty tuning route, hence this thread has gone way beyond what he wants or probably needs. Now if he wants the full tuning route, well that's another matter, but POD filters as proved are a waste of time and money.  Stick with a properly modded air box.   

That's it for me, listen or don't your money your choice.

Thank you for enlightening me on Ivan's product options and installations.

I believe he also recommends decaffeinated coffee. 

[RMT1983]

  Nothing to do with owners mangling airboxes - just a manufacturing issue at K&N.

Straight from Ivan's web page:
You must have our MB kit or Pod filter kit to get the advertised gains - works with slip-ons and full system equipped bikes...

No jetting changes needed when using these ported intake boots with our carb kits
These kits were the result of 6 months of testing and were designed into 2 kits:

One for stock un-modified airfilter cover & OEM paper air filter, and another for a modified air filter cover w/ K&N or BMC air filter.

It's owners doing the above mentioned MOD (recent pictures posted) and screwing it up that I'm referring to.  Personally I've never had an issue fitting a K&N OE replacement filter into a OE air box. Only where someone has tried to do the mod and buggered it up! Or they've removed the PODs and replaced the Std air box with the buggered MOD, any Std filter moves, because of the buggered MOD work.  

Also I'm referring to OE replacement filters in my previous NOT pod filters. In fact you can fit a K&N OE replacement filter to the air box without modding the lid, but if you want all the gains from the Ivan's kit the box lid must be modded.

Again straight from Ivan's web page:

THE TRUTH IS, PODS FILTERS WON'T MAKE ANY MORE PEAK HP THAN THE AIRBOX ON THIS BIKE.THIS PROOF CAN BE SEEN ON OUR Web page

So those who've removed the air box fitted direct pod/trumpet filters to their carbs have wasted your money!

If Ivan recommends DNA, listen to the man.   

Straight from Ivan's web page:

Part # FZ-0102MB...$120.00 For off road use only
Requires K+N or BMC air filter

He recommends the above filters no mention of issues with K&N. I'm certain if this so called issue with K&N POD or otherwise filters was real, he'd know about it?  Bering in mind he's stating there's no more gains using POD filters!
 
From what I've seen on here the examples weren't genuine K&N and the rest is just others personal preferences nothing more.  

The originator of this thread Vitman just wants to get his bike running better in as close to possible standard trim, i.e. working EXUP, and as we all know he bike runs way better with a MB Ivan's jet kit, running an air box with a K&N or other high flow filter.  

As nearly always people start jumping on and going up the full monty tuning route, hence this thread has gone way beyond what he wants or probably needs. Now if he wants the full tuning route, well that's another matter, but POD filters as proved are a waste of time and money.  Stick with a properly modded air box.   

That's it for me, listen or don't your money your choice.

Thank you for enlightening me on Ivan's product options and installations.

I believe he also recommends decaffeinated coffee. 

Hahahhaa i love this ? ? ❤️ ? 

I need to learn to bite my tongue Mike

[Falcon 269]

Seems I missed an exchange or two before the mods tidied things up. 

I'm sure it was nothing more than crossed wires.

Just like the old days, eh?  

[vitman]

I received both packages — the R1 collector and the motor with the cables. The collector didn’t fit because of the two side pipes (wrong bend). I had to take mine apart, cut the welds, and drill out all three broken bolts. But everything went together in the end. I adjusted the cables. Finally, the bike doesn’t rumble under the windows in the morning It rides a bit better now, but not quite what I was hoping for. I’ll be ordering Ivan’s kit in the winter. Thanks everyone.

---

I don’t really understand the logic of how this EXUP works. When you turn on the ignition – nothing happens. When you start the engine, it lifts up a little. If you rev it, it moves. But when you switch off the engine, it doesn’t always go all the way down. After shutting it off, you need to turn the ignition on and off again, and only then the valve flag returns to the zero position.

[PieEater]

The valve should always return to closed position when you turn on the ignition, so if nothing is happening this doesn't sound right, I will always get some servo noise. The valve should gradually open as revs rise and be fully open at 5500rpm. Double-check fitment and cable tension - https://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/exup...nance.html - are you using the R1 servo or the Fazer one?

[vitman]

Oem fzs 1000 motor + cables. R1 metall exup valve

[Gaz66]

Oem fzs 1000 motor + cables. R1 metall exup valve

Lucky to find an EXUP valve assembly that's usable for such a low price.
Workshop manual shows little to nothing of the Exup system.

I'd advise using "Fowlers" parts screen to check you have all the Exup components, very often key parts are missing, like the thrust washer & conical spring under the cable pulley.

Manual does however show the cable routing from servo to valve a big arc from servo to valve.
Run some light oil down both cables to ensure smooth operation too, I use extra thick chainsaw chain lube in a dropper for cables, super cheap too.
It's vital cables are correctly adjusted for correct valve operation, when adjusted, add a wee bit of slack in both cables for any heat expansion.
What did you lube the valve bushings with?
Some kind of a Ceramic high temp grease is probly the best, I bought some, not yet tried it, I've always used proper copper slip, avoid the cheapo copper greases, very low copper content, they'll burn off in no time, proper copper slip seems to function ok & last between valve services, use copper slip in the valve pulley cable grooves & cable end holes, correct cable adjustment is vital, leave a wee bit of cable slack for expansion & you should be good. 

Performance of a stock bike aint that impressive, you're only getting around 120bhp from a good motor, less if she's a high miler, power curve is fairly linear until you fit an Ivans MB kit with all the mods, then Woohoo hold on brother, if not done already, check valve clearances for peace of mind?