15-03-18, 10:57 PM (This post was last modified: 15-03-18, 11:03 PM by tommyardin.)
[size=1em]Yeah but all that added together does not come to much, considering we were once world leaders in engineering, and as you quite rightly say we still have Triumph (Or do we) Triumph has six-world class factories around the world. Two of these factories are based in Hinckley in the UK, just a short hop from the Mallory Park race circuit. There are three other factories in Chonburi South of Bankok, Thailand, and one in Manaus, Brazil.
And Norton are still producing motorcycles for a very small market, but can not keep up with demand, people will only wait so long
But of course your right, we live in GREAT BRITAIN, and I am British and proud be be aligned with this nation, but we have to be realistic on the global front and scale.
We are a small nation with a not very loud voice anymore and I honestly believe we as the population have done this country no good with Brexit.
Of course others have differing opinions on that, time will tell.
In the mean time summer is beginning to show its head with some sunshine, so, my Fazer for one will be emerging from the darkness and brought out into the light very soon.
But having fun in the mean time jogging along on the C90, just not very quickly. :lol :rollin :rollin :rollin [/size]
'Not quite dead yet' does not inspire much confidence, a man on an artificial respirator is 'not quite dead yet'
Well I went for the öhlin springs at £114 which should arrive from Italy in a couple of weeks and although buying British is important to me and I usually go out of my way to do so on this occasion I've gone foreign, after all the bikes japanese and the emulators are from Thailand. Speaking of emulators they've just arrived as have the damaged forks so with my new Aldi titanium drill bits I'm ready to get going. :woot :woot :woot :woot :woot :woot :woot :woot
Trying to get the Allen bolt out the bottom is a bitch! No problem on one fork leg but the other ones not budging. Tried compressing the fork and getting the missus to undo the bolt but the damper rod is still turning inside the tube. Going to try the broom handle next but because the forks bent I'm going to have to cut the stanchion at the bend otherwise I'd need a flexi broom which I've never heard of... thankfully managed to get the top nut/preload off the top with an impact gun so draining oil now and will go at it with an angle grinder later.
(16-03-18, 03:56 PM)Triggergee link Wrote: Trying to get the Allen bolt out the bottom is a bitch! No problem on one fork leg but the other ones not budging. Tried compressing the fork and getting the missus to undo the bolt but the damper rod is still turning inside the tube. Going to try the broom handle next but because the forks bent I'm going to have to cut the stanchion at the bend otherwise I'd need a flexi broom which I've never heard of... thankfully managed to get the top nut/preload off the top with an impact gun so draining oil now and will go at it with an angle grinder later.
Hi,
It may seen a silly time to say this but I omitted to mention it in my posts, one of the fist things to do before loosening the top fork Stanchion cap nut is after you drop the wheel out and remove everything that is bolted onto the fork sliders try to undo the the plugs/allen screws which are accessed up through the bottom of the fork leg and through where the axle passes, if you still struggle you can some times get them out with a length of broom handle jammed down stanchion get this Mrs or a mate to bear down on it as you undo the bolts, another way is to get a powerful impact drill driver with the correct allen key in it and that may rattle it out.
I don't mean a hammer drill, but a proper impact battery driver, most builders will have one.
I struggled getting mine out and it is the most difficult part of the job, don't be discouraged and give up, they will come out, I spent the best part of a day removing mine, the fork spring pressure is your friend I put my forks back together for the spring pressure but still struggled. If you resort to the broom handle method sometimes cutting the end of the broom handle at a sharp angle help it bite into the Damper.
One other thing, when you put the damper rod back in after you have done the mod on them, is to wash the fork bottom legs/sliders out with petrol so they are completely clean with no oil where the damper rod sits, also make sure the damper rod bottom is free from oil this will help you do them back up tight, its always good practice to fit new alloy sealing washers on the fork damper fixing bolts as well, if they weep oil it would be a right pig to have to get them out again to replace those two washers.
It put up a good fight but I'm relieved to say I won! The spring pressure wasn't enough even with me putting all my weight on it. To go the broom handle route as I said I had to cut the bent part of the stanchion off which I would've had to do anyway to get the spring and hopefully damper rod out.
Broom handle didn't work to bite into the damper so I tried a cricket post which fits up into the damping rod top and gripped good but then the whole thing span as one...
In the end I put an 8mm Allen key through the top brake calliper mounting hole and used a ratchet strap round that and the cricket post to exhert more force than I could using my body and used as you say a battery impact driver and after maybe a minute of that it finally gave in!
Thanks for the petrol tip I'll make sure to give it all a good wash out. Right now one of the damping rods which had a slight bit of corrosion I'm guessing because the stanchion was so bent it split and was already drained of oil is having a little soak with some acf 50 and tomorrow I'll give it a gentle rub with some wire wool. For today though I've got a bottle of 10% abv wheat wine from the brewery at the end of my road to celebrate my victory with :lol
Wire wool will do it no harm, the emulator and then the spring plus the spacer and spacer top washer/disk sit on top of it.
Don't forget to put the small rebound spring on the damper rods before fitting the rods back in the lower legs/sliders.
Make sure your fork seals are good and not weeping if they are OK then the sliders do not need to be removed from the stanchion.
Sounds like your cracking on with it, well done.
I'm now nearly at the point of making a start and am just waiting for new dust seals and oil to arrive. One thing which I've been wondering though is if there is a particular way of getting the emulators seated properly on the damper rods once the forks are full of oil? perhaps it's just a case of chucking them down the tube and agitating them with the spring? I'm also assuming the oil goes in before the emulators?
22-03-18, 12:50 PM (This post was last modified: 22-03-18, 04:09 PM by tommyardin.)
(22-03-18, 11:03 AM)Triggergee link Wrote: I'm now nearly at the point of making a start and am just waiting for new dust seals and oil to arrive. One thing which I've been wondering though is if there is a particular way of getting the emulators seated properly on the damper rods once the forks are full of oil? perhaps it's just a case of chucking them down the tube and agitating them with the spring? I'm also assuming the oil goes in before the emulators?
[size=1em]If you decided on the YSS emulators (Part Number 310) they are a perfect fit to the top of the FZS600 Damper Rods.
On my 2002-2003 FZS600 Foxeye with the 190 mm Damper Rods, rather than using the air gap method I went the volume of oil method that is 465cc[/size][size=1em] total oil per leg. There is one other thing to take into consideration, that is the amount of oil that is displaced but the emulator being added to the stack. (Stack being Damper rod, emulator, spring, tube spacer and top disk spacer)
The exact amount of oil displaced by the YSS emulator has slipped my mind and I can not find it written down anywhere.
But I do recall how I worked it out.
I half filled a clear, clean drinking glass with hotish water, not boiling and marked the level of the water with a marker pen, be accurate, pop one emulator into the hottish water and with a syringe draw water from the glass and get the level exactly back to where you marked it, the syringe they has graduations marked along its length, you now now exactly how much fluid is displaced by the emulator by reading the amount of water in the syringe. Subtract that from the 465cc that goes in the each leg.[/size] [size=1em](1998 & 1999 models have 475ml in each leg)
Make sure that each legs is completely devoid of any oil (clean and dry) if using 465cc minus emulator displacement method, or you will not end up with the correct total amount in the leg right.
The reason for using hotish water when finding the emulator displacement is that a quick shake once its out of the water and the warmth of the emulator itself will dry it in a minute or so.
[/size] [size=1em]Below is the instruction from YSS.[/size] [size=1em]I just found the amount displaced by the emulator I had it written in the workshop manual not in a Word Doc on the computer, it is 7.5cc per emulator.[/size]
[size=1em]1cc of fluid is exactly the same as 1ml of fluid, they are the same amount.[/size]
[size=1em]PS: YSS call the 'Damper Rod' the 'Piston Rod' same thing [/size]
Really appreciate your help on this tommyardin! Going fine so far, got the two existing holes drilled out to 8mm but needed to go out to buy a new 10mm bit. The emulators are a pretty good fit on the rods but do have a little wiggle room, maybe a mil or two but I guess the springs hold them down enough to make a good seal. I've set them to 2.5 turns from initial spring contact. So just drop them down the tubes and they should slot on nicely... as soon as the new dust seals come I'll drive the bike into my kitchen (don't have a garage) and swap everything over then ill start wondering how to mod the rear shock
Finally drilled out the damper rods today, possibly not as cleanly as I would've liked but I don't think that matters as long as the measurements are right which they are and any swarf or debris is cleaned away which it is. Considering changing the oil seals as I bought them with the dust seals so I might wait until I've put together a seal driving tool before fitting the mod.
Massive thank you to kebab19 for your original post and tommyardin for all your help. I finished putting it all together yesterday with new oil seals, dust seals, modded damper rods, 15w oil, linear springs and the cartridge emulators and took it for a 40-50 mile spin today and what a difference! I don't feel like I'm bobbing up and down all the time or nose diving under braking, feels responsive and stable but still has nice damping for bumps and pot holes. I does seem to have highlighted the poor rear shock though as the front feels solid but the back wants to bounce me off although that might be as I've got the preload set to 6 not the standard 4 as I've often got a pillion.
Next ride I'll drop the preload on the shock to 4 and possibly the preload on the forks just a touch and see if it's more balanced.
Great mod and I'd highly recommend this to anyone confident enough to give it a go.
then ill start wondering how to mod the rear shock