Nothing to see here, no, it's fine!

[Punkstig]

Sooooo, clutch has been slipping under heavy load for a while now, been playing about with adjustments at both ends of cable which always helped in the short run but the slip was a hindrance come Donnington track day.

Now against all advice I decided to try out the cheap no name friction plates off of eBay.

Take off the cover and start pulling out the plates, only the two metal plates closest to the anti-judder spring had any signs of wear on them-


Yeah, just a light scorching!
Now they both had a slight recess where I'm assuming they've rubbed against the spring and those aren't actually there on purpose so when putting the clutch  back together with the new friction plates I put these worn metal plates in different locations (yes I know I need to replace them, but just haven't!)

So, I've only done about 75 miles on the new clutch and giving it a chance to bed in before given it some hassle, so far so good except the lever has to be set with no free play in order for it to go into neutral once everything's hot!

[Punkstig]

Just in case that first pic didn't work!

And question - you can see where the anti-judder spring has been- is this just wear or are the plates like that and I've put it back together wrong by relocating them?

[paulchucky]

ouch


gorra have a good crutch or you dont get a good ride  :lol :lol

[unfazed]

Did you try adjusting at the sprocket cover first? Very possible the no name Ebay plates were too thick???

Did you check the thickness of all the plates prior to fitting them?
Common enough for spurious dubious plates to be outside the specifications :eek

[celticdog]

Plates or springs? daddy or chips? It's a toughie.

I'd agree with looking at the sprocket cover first, lack of sufficient freeplay-your tension spring may have lost its zing!

Also, check the clutch basket. Look for dark marks or indentations where the friction plates' lugs hit the basket itself. In some cases the indents can cause the clutch to drag - the friction plates get caught as the clutch lever is pulled in. You can file them down, but remove the basket or you'll contaminate the engine.

I'm no expert, but a nice EBC spring clutch kit might be worth the money, or not . . . anything's worth a try!

[Punkstig]

Did you try adjusting at the sprocket cover first? Very possible the no name Ebay plates were too thick???

Did you check the thickness of all the plates prior to fitting them?
Common enough for spurious dubious plates to be outside the specifications :eek

Of course I didn't check the thickness of the plates, 'it'll be fine' is my opinion on most things, lol
Adjustment at sprocket was done before changing but can't remember if I adjusted there again after the swap, might as well do that again!

[Dead Eye]

The metal plates aren't supposed to have those markings so swapping them in to a different position is exactly what I would have done. How many miles is the engine / plates on? I guess they get a bit more of a hammering from you compared to the likes of me, but still seems odd

[Punkstig]

Thanks deadeye- I assumed this was the case and couldn't be arsed to check part numbers for any differences!
Bike is now at 49k but isn't used for dispatching anymore!
Tbf I'm happy with the mileage the clutch  has done which is why I thought I'd give the cheap plates a go.
On another note I bought the bike with 17k on the clock, fitted scottoiler straightaway and it's still the same chain and sprockets!

[Dead Eye]

For comparison, my clutch is on nearly 90k and doesn't have those markings. The metal plates have never been changed as far as I am aware, though I did do the friction plates about 2 years ago before I took the bike off the road