My meta 357tv2 alarm which was fitted with the bike brand new in 2003, has stopped working.
I have the red key card with the 2 codes.
[color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]It looks to be completely shut down no led, indicators do not flash, no beeps nothing. If I disconnect the battery
when reconnect it still doesn't work. The bike has been on an optimate in the garage all over the Christmas period.
The alarm has probably gone into sleep mode but it will not wake up.One thing I did check the fuse all ok, but when I reconnect the fuse the alarm sounder makes a crackle noise. I can only assume the internal battery is low.
Can I measure this voltage from the fuse connector to ground. Could the connector onto the alarm have corroded contacts it is mounted under the tail light bracket.
The connector onto the alarm has what looks like security screws is there two.
What are my options, . I need first to try and get the alarm working or bypassed so I can get it replaced or fixed if it's a corroded connector.
Does anyone have the bypass pin out diagram for the connector so I can bypass.
One other note: The fob batteries are the original not had any problems ever. But aside from the alarm if I changethe fob battery will the fob still be recognised by the alarm. [/color]
I would say start by googling for a PDF of the owners instruction manual for your alarm and begin problem solving from here. But if you can't then a local motorcycle alarm fitter might help you. Remember these alarms are designed to be tamper proof so at the very least they will be a challenge the DIYer.
Regardless of what people say, i believe that no thief wants attention drawn to him by an alarm siren so i'm on your side with having an alarm fitted to your bike in the first place. Its always preferable with an old bike to start from scratch by fitting a new alarm, packaged with service back up from the fitter.
Best of luck
The road to success is always under construction.....
Happiness is finding you have another gear left....
If there's no solution then its not a problem.
05-01-13, 12:04 AM (This post was last modified: 05-01-13, 12:09 AM by unfazed.)
Do you have both fobs?
If the bike has not been used for more than 10 days the alarm goes into sleep mode to prevent draining the battery. In this mode the only way to bring it out of sleep mode is to switch on the ignition. The alarm will sense the ignition on and recativate itself. Pressing the Grey button on the key fob or the smaller of the two buttons on the small fob will decativate it. This must be done within 5 seconds or the alarm will sound if the alarm went into sleep mode from afully armed state..
Let me know if you have done all this.
mine did this the alarm internal battery has fucked, no use to you now
you need the pin out to disable it hope this helps as it did mine, I accept NO responsibility if you fk it up lol :rollin :rollin
"Dont confuse my personality with my attitude My personality is who I am. My attitude depends on who you are..."
Keithfzs1000. The diagram you have posted it for an earlier Meta 357t model and you are correct if the procedure I gave in my post doe not work. When the internal battery fails it cannot be replaced.
However Meta offer a new unit with new fobs and red Card, but without the wiring loom but with for a reduced price as replacements for units when the battery fails. http://abacuscaralarms.co.uk/alarmshop/i...ductId=399
The attached is the pinouts for the 357T V2.
Thank you for your posts regarding the pin out diagram.
I have dismantled the rear of the bike to get to the alarm.
and would you believe what I found is this.
see the attached picture. It shows at least two wires, not sure which ones the damaged ones are when you bell to the wiring harness plug pins, will do that tomorrow.
But it looks like the loom has been chaffing for 9 years on the end of the rear left frame.
Gone through the insulation tape and through the cable insulation.
The bad weather before Christmas must have shorted the wires out.
Maybe this has damaged the alarm.
I am going to find out where the wires go to and repair them then see if this allows the alarm to function.
The alarm is a Meta 357T V2 it's on the label at the back of the alarm module.
Looking at the pin out diagram. What does it mean when it says Loop NR x and NR x.
and then says Do not loop NR x and NR x in AC ignition systems.
What is an AC system.
I am not sure if the alarm will function when damaged wires insulated so I will probably need to buypass the alarm wiring.
In an additional note what is the torque setting for the grab rail bolts and screw holding the rear tail covers on, please. I don;t want to over tighten the bolts and trash the tail pieces.
06-01-13, 02:22 AM (This post was last modified: 06-01-13, 02:24 AM by unfazed.)
Glad to see you found the problem, however it may have drained the battery in the alarm unit. From what I have seen 10 years is about the maximum life of the internal alarm batteries and yours is on the way out at 9 years. Before you tape the wires make sure there are intact and reconnect them if possible. Then check if it works again. If not remove the Plug from the alarm. Awkward due to the security screws but possible with a little persuasion and a long nose pliars or it may be possible to cut them with a pair of split pin cutters if you have one.
From the pinout diagram I posted push a piece of wire in a loop into the plug between the pins as in the diagram one loop of wire between 8 and 7 (this is the white plug at the side of the main black plug) and another loop of wire between 4 and 5. This bypasses the mobiliser and should allow you to start the bike.
The torque setting for the grab rail is 19Nm
The Fairing to the taillight bracket is 4Nm as are the side cover bolts.
All other bolts are 7Nm
AC stands for alternating current, but is not relevant to the fazer, DC stands for Direct Current which is what the fazer uses in its ignition system.
I think Meta are in twickenham, if you phone em they refer you to their bike specialist guy. I had a 358 fitted to gixxer, battery died and subsequently so did the alarm. My only solution was to rip it out completely, which I suspected, just needed him to say it. Guy was sound tho. Can't remember his name but the guy from meta was having nothing to do with it so the main tech/parts office must only deal with car alarms and so referred me onto him.
I managed to get the bike started with the two bypass loops of wire.
I put some insulation tape on the two damaged wires. And then put some more insulation tape around the loom.
I started checking out the indicators and lights, all ok. The rear brake operates the brake lights, but the front brake lever doesn't switch on the brake lights.
I found out that the alarm has what is called a decode wire, the brown wire that supplies the feed to the brake light switch is cut and dioded. It says also that a wire no:33 is attached to the switch side of the diode.
I must need to find and fit a 3rd loop, to get the brake light working from the brake lever.
That wire is mostly the ignition on sensor wire and as the rear brake works the brake light then the mostly likely suspect is the front brake light switch. This is a common problem and the switch is easily checked. Remove the two wires from the switch just under the master cylinder and use another loop of wire to check if looping the two wires brings on the brake light. If it does replace the switch. The switch is held on with one screw. It can be a bit fiddly to to take out and replace
. I need first to try and get the alarm working or bypassed so I can get it replaced or fixed if it's a corroded connector.
