Just found out that my pipes have a crack in two places of what I know of. Any one ever taken them off and if so how easy is it?
Been told that the bolts can sometimes weld to engine and snap.
From what ive read so far, folk spray the bolts with wd40 for at least a week before they even attempt to get them off but even then ive seen pictures of the studs snapping off, tbh with you if it was me i'd take my bike to a garage for this one as at least they'll have the tools if anything does go pear shaped & the bike wont be stuck at your house with the exhaust half hanging off.
but im not getting into the foc-u spirit & im sure lots will now say give it a bash and see what happens.
good luch
Easiest way to go fast........don't buy a blue bike
:wall for the umpteenth foccing time... Not wd40! Use a proper penetrating oil, plus gas, or the products made by 3in1 or wd40, that are designed specifically for the job. Wd40 (in the blue and yellow can) is good at what it was designed for - water displacement.
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(05-05-13, 12:11 AM)richfzs link Wrote: :wall for the umpteenth foccing time... Not wd40! Use a proper penetrating oil, plus gas, or the products made by 3in1 or wd40, that are designed specifically for the job. Wd40 (in the blue and yellow can) is good at what it was designed for - water displacement.
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:lol
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(05-05-13, 12:11 AM)richfzs link Wrote: :wall for the umpteenth foccing time... Not wd40! Use a proper penetrating oil, plus gas, or the products made by 3in1 or wd40, that are designed specifically for the job. Wd40 (in the blue and yellow can) is good at what it was designed for - water displacement.
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aw foc i tried typing 'penetrating oil as used by UB40 on their bikes'................... but the auto spell typed out wd40 :rolleyes
Honest Rich!!!
Easiest way to go fast........don't buy a blue bike
The problem here is that the metal @ the exhaust ports gets extremely hot and when you ride in bad/wet weather all the crap gets thrown up on the front of the engine-mud/water/salt etc,which is an ideal recipe for corrosion. So unless you are fanatical about cleaning the first time you notice theres a problem is when your exhaust starts to blow & you find the exhaust nuts refuse to budge. As said-spray around studs/nuts with PENETRATING oil-nothing else- for several days and if the nuts refuse to loosen-don't force them or you could end up with broken studs stuck in the cylinder.
If you run a search you will find this topic has been covered by many foccers-the main thing is not to rush at things-you could end up in a world of pain & expense! :eek
I soaked mine in plus gas for a week and most of them still didn't budge.
I had to use oxy acetylene in the end to get them proper hot, came off nicely after that
If I was you I'd find someone with some oxy, also copper grease the studs when you rebuild them because you won't have any problems taking them off again if you do.
(05-05-13, 12:11 AM)richfzs link Wrote: :wall for the umpteenth foccing time... Not wd40! Use a proper penetrating oil, plus gas, or the products made by 3in1 or wd40, that are designed specifically for the job. Wd40 (in the blue and yellow can) is good at what it was designed for - water displacement.
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To be fair Rich i used WD40 and it all went well, maybe i was lucky!!
Having said that Rich is right use a proper penetrating (uh er missies) oil. :lol
Red Heads - Slowly taking over the world!!!
Right now we have got the exhaust rings off how do we tackle the header assembly which has grown in with crud and corrosion ? :'(