Front brake lever jurk.

[Lakesandcakes]

Hi all!


Yesterday I went for a shake down ride on my new (to me) FZS1000. It is a 2003 bike with 44K on the clock.


I had just fitted the 50mm jack up kit and wanted to see what difference it made.....works a treat by the way and sharp turning.


I did however come to another issue. When braking the front brake lever is initially quite hard to pull then it pops in slightly and the brakes start to work. It feels as though it is jamming on initial lever pulling. The brakes are then OK but only just OK for the remainder of the braking.....still quite hard to pull though and if the braking was any worse I would not ride it til sorted.


It has a recent MOT before I bought it and has just had new fork seals but had not seen much use at all for the last year or so prior to me getting it.


I'm thinking of fitting new braided hoses over the winter as the brake lines are original and now 17 years old. I doubt this will be what is causing the initial hard to pull then popping in slightly of the brake lever though. My first guess is sticking calliper pistons but wondered if anyone else has come across anything similar or what your thoughts are with 1000's brakes.


Thanks to any thoughts and comments in advance! 

[FILZ6]

Check the front brake lever pivot point, remove the bolt, clean everything, grease up, refit. Worth a try.


Cobra brake lines from Wezmoto, made by Hel, good quality hoses, stainless fittings and banjo bolts. Choice of colours.
I used them on my Fazer. I also fitted stainless bleed nipples.

[kralik]

i would recomend to change the brake fluid too. The old brake fluid and the mess in it can lead to this behaviour.

I had similar issue, when the lever felt very "raw" when pushing it, once I changed the fluid this behaviour disappeared.

[PieEater]

Cleaning and lubing the pivot bolt is a good shout if this doesn't work you could take the calipers off and see if all of the pistons are moving relatively freely, the piston seals if they haven't already been replaced will be long past their best and may be causing the pistons to bind or seize. Another possibility is the master cyliner, you can get a repair kit fairly inexpensively but I would check the stuff that you can do without spending any money first.

[Dave48]

If it was my bike I would do a complete overhaul of the front brake system. Braided hoses either 2 or 3 line set up-Hel or equivalent brand as already said. The master cylinder overhaul kit is cheaper from Powerhouse Automotive as are the brake calliper piston and dust seal kits than the Yamaha ones. I would strip the callipersand check condition of Pistons etc. Rebuild using red rubber grease between Pistons & seals. New pads if required and fresh DOT 4 fluid. When you consider what your thou is capable of it's nice to know you can stop  if you have to without "drama"!
I take it your discs have enough thickness left and run true?

[dangerousdave]

I had a very similar problem with the front brake and after removing and copper greasing the pivot pin, as advised by others, it resolved the problem completely.

[Lakesandcakes]

Thanks for all your throughs so far.


I've ordered some braided hoses from Hel. £61.19 for a 2 line system including the discount for forum member of £6.80 (Anyone new reading this you the discount code is Forum25). Will try the pivot first and give it a test tomorrow.


Do you mean the brake lever pivot pin?


I will then overhaul the callipers and fit new hoses over the winter anyway just for piece of mind.......A job for Christmas day when the Outlaws are here......keeps me out of the way  :lol :lol [size=78%] [/size]
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[FILZ6]

Yes the front brake lever pivot pin, often neglected during preventive maintenance lubrication regimes.

[Lakesandcakes]

Update:


As suggested it was the pivot pin. The metal bush inside had moved slightly so the lever was binding on the casing......quick tap with a hammer and re-grease and no jerking!


Sorted thanks again guys.

[FILZ6]

:thumbup  That’s a good result.