my citroen c4 passed the mot with an advisor that the rear brakes are slightly corroded. i was thinking about putting new discs on,(i have done loads on other cars) but have heard that i have to "wind" the pistons back into the calipers? can i not just push them back in with my trusty pushing in tool? i have seen the winding in tools on ebay (left and right)? and a thing that looks like a chinese puzzle, a alloy block with nipples sticking out in various places :b do i really need to wind them in? :car
Aye, they won't just push back (assuming they work the same as on my old ZX).
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I learnt about this when doing rear disc brakes for the first time. Rear calipers have a thread on the piston which is needed for hand brake adjustment as the pads wear. So the tool will push the caliper piston in whilst turning it in its thread. I managed with out, by pushing the piston in with a g-clamp a bit at a time whilst using pipe grips on the very end of the piston to turn it in on the thread.
Note thread is very loose affair it felt like the ones on the top of a jam jar, so by pushing the piston in a bit it you got the thread faces a part so you could turn it till up against the thread faces again. Give it a try.
Note a thread on a jam jar abit like that on rear brake caliper pistons :lol
cockney rhyming slang? :lol
G-Clamp works pretty well.
Some say that he eats habanero chilli peppers dipped in oil of capsaicin for extra bite and that his pyjamas are made from Nomex. All we know is, he's called Ad the Bad
I used to use a g clamp and pliers but then spent £30 on the winding tool from halfrauds and must say it makes it a whole lot easier
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-1314-Bra...19da034300
I have one of these. the reversible bit fits most cars ive ever done. These include. VW/Audi, Citroen, Peugeot and Ford. sure I have done more just cant remember now. you can even buy add-on bits for other cars, had to get one for a vectra.
Useful tool to have because you can rewind fronts without bit on the end. The tool that keeps on giving lol
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
Yep that's the same thing I've got and so far done vauxhall Peugeot renault Honda and nissan and it makes it so much easier
Oh word of advice, when you rewind the piston give the rubber seal a squirt with WD40, I have seen some twisted and ripped on a few cars due to it sticking to the piston when you wind it back.
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
mintex cera-tec grease is recommended for slider pins and back of new pads...(google it)
pump handbrake to reset it when job done, not the pedal.
I think wd40 is not good for seals, try cera-tec or red rubber grease for that.
that's the advice for my cage which also has wind back pistons in the rear calipers.
D
(15-03-13, 10:55 PM)dickturpin link Wrote: mintex cera-tec grease is recommended for slider pins and back of new pads...(google it)
pump handbrake to reset it when job done, not the pedal.
I think wd40 is not good for seals, try cera-tec or red rubber grease for that.
that's the advice for my cage which also has wind back pistons in the rear calipers.
D
Sorry should have explained better. most cars I have done have a moving dust seal that rises up along with the piston. I completely agree do not put WD40 on the main piston pressure seal itself if you do not have one.
In all honesty if you do have one and see it twisting around stop and loosen it because as I said before I have seen cars with ripped ones due to it twisting around.
As for lubrication, nowt wrong with copper slip :lol
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
