locks

[ghostbiker]

In the market for a new lock for the bike. At home its in a garage now with a ground anchor. And the garage is locked but only with the normal garage lock and a floor bolt and padlock.

But while out and about I used to have the data tool uno immobilizer and a cheapish bike it disc lock.
Now the data tool is no more and the bike it disc lock is worn and was crap to start with

So in the market for a new lock. Needs to be easy to carry and easy to accses. So I am thinking disc lock again. But maybe something a bit better than the last one that can be broken in 2 by droping it from a hight not much greater than the top box LOL.

Oxford boss seems to get ok reviews and is a sensible price, they do normal and an alarm version.
About 50 or 70 give or take a tenner from what I have seen.
There is also the oxford screamer that's cheap and alarmed.
But I prefer the boss as it doubles up as a chain lock to if needed.


What do you guys use? Recomend? Are the alarm ones any use?  Do you get bigger discounts on them than the non alarm ones with insurance etc
Lots of cheap tat around that I want to avoid but don't want to spend a huge amount either.

[Slaninar]

In my country, bikes are packed in a van and driven away. So disc locks are only good for bending discs when you forget to take them out before starting.

Alarms are good just for keeping teenagers from sitting and taking photos on your bike (getting burnt on hot exhaust, or dropping with the bike).

The only security is a garage (out of sight), or, if it can't be garaged, a good fat, hard chain tied to a solid anchor (post, metal fence etc).


I'd recommend the most expensive and fattest Abus chain and lock you can find. This will also be breakable, but it will take time. Thieves will look for the easiest bike to steal, so make sure your bike isn't the easiest target -that's what fat chain does. Also, Abus locks are quite difficult to pick.




In order to get to this info I have enquired experts from both sides of the law.





1) Good short read on metal, chains etc:
http://lockitt.com/chaininfo.htm



2)  Tips:
Try to lock the frame to something immobile, not easily cut.

Make sure chain isn't close to the ground (ie doesn't lie on the ground) so thieves can not use the ground as leverage, or use hammer/chisel to break locks/chains.

Make sure both the chain, lock and key mechanism are good. Chain is as good as it's weakest link. If you can afford, Abus stuff that is above protection level 15 (on Abus scale) is good. Don't know about other makes, but any other chain that's over 60 rockwell and a decent lock will  probably do.

If your bike is apealing enough and if there is enough time, any lock/chain can be broken.




3) Keys:
Most locks are brute forced. However, there are lockpicks. Rule of thumb:

Locks with ordinary, regular keys are most easily picked. These keys should be avoided.


Locks with "double" sided keys can be a bit more complicated.


(Double sided key)




Although all the above are not too hard to pick. This one is a bit more tricky, so look for something like that:







As well as this (not bad):








4) Chains:

Look at Abus website. They have a security ranking of their own for their locks-chains. Anything above rank 15 is decent. Anything above 20, 25 is very good (but very expensive).

Hexagonal chain, over 12mm thick that is core hardened is a decent level of protection to look for. Even 10mm thick chain with the same qualities (hexagonal, core hardened) is very hard to cut with bolt cutters that fit under a jacket, especially if there's no leverage against the ground (i.e. the chain is not lying on the concrete).


5) Padlock (lock):
Make sure the chain fits tightly in the lock. Too big is not good. It will make room for leverage with a bar, or cutters. So keep it tight, if buying seperately, first get the chain you can afford, then look for a matching padlock.
Here's a decent one, about 20 euros here:



6) Conclusion:

If secured properly, not left lying close to the ground and so that lock can be easily accessed, these locks can buy you quite a lot of time (if  thief doesn't give up in the first place and start looking for another  easier target).  However, nothing is 100% safe. Make sure you don't  leave an expensive (looking) bike in the same place reugularly, or for a  long period of time anywhere.

[markbubble]

the cheapest but best disc lock is a simple good quality padlock(with a pin that will go thru disc hole!) i attach a disc reminder to mine that simply goes from disc to bars to stop you forgetting to unlock before you ride off! as already said te bike could still be lifted into van or similar! a good u lock or good chain and padlock is better (or as well as) and you can get them that will fit under seat or come with a mounting bracket to fit on bike ,try to attach the bike to something if possible

[ghostbiker]

I know about bike lifting, had a Gsx lifted in the 90's. 2 bars 4 blokes and a freezer truck. It had a cover, abus u lock, disc lock and alarm. It was u locked to a rack.
Bike was gone in under 2 mins from pull up to drive off and caught on CCTV. Never set eyes on the bike again.
I have a good chain but its awkward to carry day to day hence the disc lock.

If someone wants your bike enough then its already gone. I'm just trying to stop the casual thief pushing the bike away while I pop in a shop etc.

[ponkster]

  The picture below is a euro lock that is used in UPVC front doors on houses - they are super easy to break in to through a recent discovered method called snapping and bumping ( look it up on youtube) - if you have one on your house get a snap proof one quickly before your burgled! They cost about 25 quid on places like screwfix and take about 30 mins to fit - the best 25 pounds you will ever spend!!!As for bike security disk locks and roller shutter padlocks are hard to break , also U locks  are good - but remember you get what you pay for with locks so if its cheap it tends to be easy to cut through.


Just in case you were thinking I was some kind of "Raffles" the gentleman thief I'm not - I've been in the fire service 25 years and have cut and forced many locks and chains

[Slaninar]

  The picture below is a euro lock that is used in UPVC front doors on houses - they are super easy to break in to through a recent discovered method called snapping and bumping ( look it up on youtube) - if you have one on your house get a snap proof one quickly before your burgled! They cost about 25 quid on places like screwfix and take about 30 mins to fit - the best 25 pounds you will ever spend!!!As for bike security disk locks and roller shutter padlocks are hard to break , also U locks  are good - but remember you get what you pay for with locks so if its cheap it tends to be easy to cut through.


Just in case you were thinking I was some kind of "Raffles" the gentleman thief I'm not - I've been in the fire service 25 years and have cut and forced many locks and chains

You mean the bottom of my post? The padlock?

[ponkster]

sorry the pic didn't copy into my post - I was talking about the cut away picture in the middle of the post

[Slaninar]

sorry the pic didn't copy into my post - I was talking about the cut away picture in the middle of the post

I was assured by a man who's job has been to open locks that it is one of the more chalenging (the key in the picture). Said it would take him some time to open it. Can you post a youtube video of it being broken easily? My info is about one year old, things change, it is always better to know.

[ponkster]

As you see from the attached video link people dont " pick"" euro locks anymore but snap them - this method is so easy and reliable way of getting in that some councils  and  police forces are using it to force entry to properties.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCufUpr_QRY







Unfortunately all the "scrotes" also know how to do this and with a bit of practice can do it very quickly - the solution to it is a snap proof lock which has a flexible section in the centre that is not solid and brittle metal.


[size=78%]http://www.discountlocks.co.uk/Anti-Snap...-s/178.htm[/size]


I not promoting any particular lock shop - I just put this link in as it had a large selection.


If you have not changed your front door lock I would because this method is sweeping across the UK

[Slaninar]

That is exactly the way I was told.

This lock (and key) bad:





This good:



Key for the good lock:

[wezdavo]

As you see from the attached video link people dont " pick"" euro locks anymore but snap them - this method is so easy and reliable way of getting in that some councils  and  police forces are using it to force entry to properties.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCufUpr_QRY









Unfortunately all the "scrotes" also know how to do this and with a bit of practice can do it very quickly - the solution to it is a snap proof lock which has a flexible section in the centre that is not solid and brittle metal.


[size=78%]http://www.discountlocks.co.uk/Anti-Snap...-s/178.htm[/size]


I not promoting any particular lock shop - I just put this link in as it had a large selection.


If you have not changed your front door lock I would because this method is sweeping across the UK

I absolutely agree..

I work for an engineering company as a welder/fabricator with a contract for Durham police...

About 8 years ago i built a breach training rig for the coppers, basically just heavy steel door frames with varoius doors, steel, upvc and wood where they practice different methods of gaining entry..

The euro locks were shocking, using a tool that fits neatly over the exposed part of the lock, it was snapped with ease, then a t-bar was placed in to turn the mechanism... 20 secs and they were in, very quite too..

They also had other methods with jacks and believe it or not air bags!!

Still everytime i watch these cop shows on tv the use a battering ram!!

[simonm]

I bought a [color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]OXFORD OMEGA DISC LOCK[/color] as a visual deterrent.  IT was less than £30.
[/size]
[/size]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271133607738?s...1439.l2649
[/size]
[/size]I'm not all together sure if the better the lock is the more discount you get or not.  I suspect as far as insurance is concerned as long as it's Thatcham certified you'll get a fixed discount, rather than the better the lock the more discount you get.
[/size]
[/size]My Fazer has a Spyball installed on it as an immobilizer and alarm too but I wanted something obvious too.
[/size]
[/size]I think the best angle on this is as follows:
[/size]
[/size]1.) Don't have an expensive/powerful bike.  The more average it is, the less nickable it is
[/size]2.) Definitely have an electronic Thatcham alarm and immobiliser
[/size]3.) Put a visual deterrent on the bike like a disk lock.  The more substantial it looks the better (the reason I didn't get the cheaper thatcham certified mammoth)
[/size]4.) You can use a chain through the frame and a lamp post but it's a lot of weight to carry and it's unsafe in a rucksack.  Too much effort as far ass I'm concerned.
[/size]5.) Park in a public place with cameras, preferably in a pedestrianised area with bollards preventing transit/vehicle access.
[/size]
[/size]Hope this helps, just my 2p.
[/size]
[/size]Simon
[/size]
[/size]
[/size]
[/size]

[sadlonelygit]

there are only a couple of REAL choices when it comes to bike security.
At home. a decent ground anchor and an almax S3 or 4 with a squire ss65cs lock
out and about......motrax vishas disc lock (virtually unpickable and nothing short of an angle grinder will get it off) an alarm and possibly a U lock through the frame to something solid (lamp post/railing).
if you care to visit the almax site and visit the wall of shame (sold secure products that don't last a minute against bolt croppers).
i am not affiliated in any way whatsoever with almax or there agents.
finally, keep your chains as high as possible off the ground, makes it harder for a thief to crop your chains.

[Arfa]

I use a Pragmasis Chain, Squire SS65CS padlock and at home a Torc ground anchor. I wanted piece of mind of the bike secured to something solid. Ground anchor at home and railings at work. I got the impression that the Almax chains are about on par with the Pragmasis.


Chain wise, I was advised to go at least 16mm links, as these don't fit in the standard 42" bolt cutters most thieving gits carry. I didn't go 19mm, mainly due to weight of carrying the chain to work. This vid (by Almax) cemented that notion:-


Non-Almax security chains for bikes vs Bolt Croppers


Interesting talk of padlocks, as I had been under the impression the Squire lock was pretty good, but it's key is just a single sided affair. So you reckon this would be an easy one to pick?

Anyway, here's my write up on my blog. Motorcycle security chain and anchor.

[ghostbiker]

No one seems to be getting it. If they want it enough its gone.
I have home covered for the basic scrote so all I'm after is a basic visual and something that will slow down a council scrote with a screwdriver and hammer.
So a fairly good disc lock when parked in public is all I want.

But if you want your bike THAT safe then buy a sleeping bag and camp tied up to it.

[simonm]

What do you guys use? Recomend? Are the alarm ones any use?  Do you get bigger discounts on them than the non alarm ones with insurance etc
Lots of cheap tat around that I want to avoid but don't want to spend a huge amount either.

... all I'm after is a basic visual and something that will slow down a council scrote with a screwdriver and hammer.
So a fairly good disc lock when parked in public is all I want.

Did you read my post or any of the other peoples posts?  There is some pretty good info in this thread.  The Oxford one I got was purely as a deterrent and is luminous yellow but will get you an insurance discount.  If you want an alarm, it should be attached to the bike an incorporate an immobiliser, most lock alarms can be silenced with a hand rendering them pretty useless.

[sadlonelygit]

No one seems to be getting it. If they want it enough its gone.
I have home covered for the basic scrote so all I'm after is a basic visual and something that will slow down a council scrote with a screwdriver and hammer.
So a fairly good disc lock when parked in public is all I want.

But if you want your bike THAT safe then buy a sleeping bag and camp tied up to it.

motrax vishas. . . . . as i prevoiusly mentioned. Comes with a little pouch to fix to the bike as well

[ghostbiker]

Sorry, my reply was more regarding ground anchor / big chains / alarms etc
I am looking at the motrax but the oxford omega I had already ruled out. Prefering the boss non alarmed as it would double up as my ground anchor lock and reduce keys needed.