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Rough idling on cold starts
#1
Hello all, wondering if any of you could help meĀ  Smile

My fazer doesn't like idling when it first starts up, even on a day like today, 18 degree's and I can just start it and let it idle, I either have to put a tiny bit of choke on or giving it a few blips of revs when it sounds like its about to die, the idle starts at about 1050 and if I leave it, it will work it way down to around 600-700 before it cuts out.

I've noticed that the down pipes from cylinder 3 + 4 seems to take longer to warm up than the other 2, I know electrical problem tie 1+4 and 2+3 together so I've ruled that out (correct me if I'm wrong)

Once it's up to running temp she idles nice and steadily at 1.2k, no dropping in revs or wanting to cut out

So my best guess is the valve clearance on cylinder 3 + 4 may be too loose, and when it warms up the expansion of the valve creates a better seal hence idling fine once up to temp?

27,000 miles on the engine, not sure if the clearance has ever been adjusted before.

Just looking for some second opinions before I go ahead and strip her down, I've got a Haynes manual and it seems very long winded, does anybody else have a simpler way to get at the valves to shove a feeler gauge in?

Thanks, Louis.
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#2
valve clearences very rarely need adjusting Wink ,ive just done mine at 40,000 and only had to go up one size (0.05mm) on the exhaust valves only,bike is 14 years old and thats the first time they have been done Big Grin ......they are straight forward to do but as with all things,first time always a bit harderĀ  :\
i would look at service items first Wink [size=78%] plugs and air filter,checking the colour of the plugs might give you a clue aswell....let us know how you get on [/size] Wink .
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#3
what you described there sounds normal to me
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#4
I hit my start button, it starts, i give it one small blip and it runs sweet straight away!
I never use the choke, you shouldn't need it in this weather!
Take the air filter out then start it, and see if it runs okay for starters, and gap the plugs and check the colour of them.
If they're good, then let us know!
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#5
Pulled the plugs out and they all look a good colour and the gaps are fine, although there is some rust further up the plug where it looks like some water/road salt has got in.

Air filter off next and give it a good clean?

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#6
I personally would change the plugs anyway - it's amazing how an apparently "good" plug can provide a weak spark. How long have them plugs been in?
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#7
Less than a year, around 10 months
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#8
The plugs seem like they've been kept submersed in water to look like that, i'd check your drainage holes for any blockages.


If it's a standard paper air filter you won't be able to clean it, but i would suggest starting the bike with it taken out and see if it idles better when cold, it may just be clogged up?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#9
When I take the tank of the get to the air filter, will I have to completely put the tank back on to try running it without a filter?

I think it may have a K&N filter but I'm not 100%, will have a look tomorrow.
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#10
If it's a K&N then it won't be that, but if it's a paper filter just take it out and put the tank back into position, put fuel pipe back on and just start it up, you don't need to ride it. Listen if it starts and idles better at all.
It's just a quick check to start with the obvious.
Whatever it is, if you think you have problems now, they'll be worse when the proper cold weather kicks in.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#11
how long does it take before it idles normally?
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