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oil drain plug - stuck !
#21
Quote:Oh and have a bloody big drip tray, the stupid location of the plug means the old oil doesnt go where you  want it to go.

Can be avoided by cutting a small pop bottle in half lengthways and tucking one end of it betwen frame and engine.
Diverts it out sideways.
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#22
Hi
Yea same here I use a short length of plastic guttering
ATB YFM
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#23
So - my comment is:


"If you can't get a socket onto it (which I found too) - how are you supposed to use a torque wrench to tighten to the recommended 43(?)mM???"


I guess you simply don't?
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#24
Exactly what I thought on Saturday...I did it up as tight as I could manage with a 7" ring spanner then gave that a few soft knocks with my mole grips. Seems to have stayed tight anyway.
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines...
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#25
Basically, tighten it up to bolt shear, then back it off a quarter turn!

I jest.

On the drain plug, you should be using a new crush washer at each change. These are not expensive and it takes little effort to actually "crush" the washer to help form the seal with the grease you should also apply.

tbh, find a good bike mechanic and have them do it - the money you "save" by buying the oil catching tray and other improvised devices, oil itself, oil filter, crush washer, probably replacement plug bolt, paying for oil disposal, mess on your drive/garage floor etc. it is not worth the sh@g and hassle.

I did an oil change once and the filter was a pain to get off. Drove a screwdriver through it to get it off and scarred my fingers for life on the sharp edges. Total nightmare, support your local industries!

fish.
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#26
(04-06-12, 10:01 AM)Dave48 link Wrote: More people mistakenly overtighten fasteners "just to be on the safe side" than undertighten. Best to beg/borrow/steal a torque wrench particularly tightening steel into alloy. Mistakes can prove expensive. Please dont use agricultural techniques! :eek :lol
Never has a truer word been spoken. Whilst changing my rear brake pads a few days ago, I decided for the first time in ages to actaully torque the bolts to the right torque. I was amazed when tightening them with a normal ratchet I was already over the 40Nm required and had to back them off!!!
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#27
@[size=1em]fishwibbler[/size]


If you can't cope with a simple, and it is simple, oil change then you must work in I.T. ?


Tighten the bolt comfortably by hand, job done.......it ain't going nowhere!  :eek


Get an oil filter wrench, or even easier, buy an oil filter with a nut head on it, to make life really easy. You don't need 'crush' washers at all?






More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#28
Hey! I work in I.T and like to think that im somewhat mechanically oriented as well Tongue

Id also suggest, that you -may- save money on the first oil change. But the money spent on the accessories is a one off - therefore making every subsequent change cheaper Smile Also, since when do you have to pay to dispose of oil?! Just take it to your local tip, they usually have a place to dispose of it. There is a phone number to find your local one on practically every bottle of oil I have ever seen and im sure there is a website somewhere as well.
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#29
Apologies Dead Eye, i was expecting an iffy response, what i meant to say was 'Knitting Champion'  :lol :lol :lol




(please tell me there's no Champion Knitting Foccers on this website?)  :rollin
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#30
Haha, its ok, no offense taken Wink
[Image: 242673.png] [Image: 174802.png]
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#31
Hey, I'm offended as my knitting and IT skills are exemplary!
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#32
Acknowledged, i do actually need a new knitted number plate, and my I.T. skills are pants...... :lol


I will help anyone on here, BUT, i have a dark sense of humour that i can't control, so please don't take me seriously at all, unless i'm trying to help you, because sometimes i can't help myself........i do mean well, honestly.... Big Grin
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#33
got it off...... eventually.
got the bike nice and warm and sprayed (carefully) some cold water on theplug for 10 mins or so, then cracked and loosened the nut.
looks like the bloke who had the bike before me was hanging off the spanner he used to tighten it!
muppet !
found a good use for the waste oil also !
my grandad wanted it to keep his garden tools in (spade, fork, etc.) to stop them going rusty!
takes all sorts ! Big Grin
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#34
if u cant aford a torch wench. use a very short ring spanner imagine its cut in half.  u wont over tighten it then.  always new crush washer. then do it up  to the corect tightness by going for ft.  ft = fuggin tite. 


this thread has me in stiches. is your job i t. no.  its a nut. sorry. oh i gota read it again. an i karnt even spel.

what's next.. The best way to press the button to start the bike.  :lol
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#35
All Good advice.  I would def make sure got a new drain plug bolt, as bound to round it off, as as someone said a new crush washer.  to Torque it up, I cut down (in length) an old 17mm Socket and used a bendy coupling, (you know the ones I mean)...


Only leaves just enough 1/4 inch square drive to do the job, but it works.  Don't try and do the bolt up using the socket as not enough room to frame, just for torquing up.


Fubar!!
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#36
You cut a socket.......really??


And "....i'm not convinced by the manual, but it's not been wrong before?...."  :rollin


Off the top of my head without me looking i'd guess the drainage bolt is at the bottom of the water pump, which will have the large hose connected to it on the left hand side, to the left of the oil bolt.


The manual isn't there to trick you though, you can put a bit more faith in it.  :lol

More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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