It is getting near that time. The bike is getting very near 24000miles, so will need the valve shims checked in a few months time.
I will not be doing the work my self.The mechanic who is doing the work says there is not much point putting back the AIS system and will obviously increase the price of the job.He has done the shim job many times he says and he usually just crimps the the pipes and thinks this is quick and easy .He has fitted the screws that need tapping first, but thinks crimping is best.Where can I get a Ais removal kit from?
Is crimping any good?Having looked at the site there is a lot of information and some one on this site used to make a kit, but it was a few years ago.
Holeshot Performance in the US still make a removal kit. It's priced at $56 plus shipping and import duty. If you have access to an engineering shop, I have got the dimensions of these caps. Personally I'd say the caps are the neatest and quickest installation, but then that was my choice :lol .
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
Cutting and crimping the original AIS tubing works and your mechanic is familiar with the process. If you go that route, you won't need an AIS removal kit.
For the air filter I used an old rubber cap and for the exhaust I made some covers out of stainles steel. For the carburetor, I ordered genuine yamaha parts that are covering the oder carburetors.Easy and cheap
Not sure how the crimping of the pipes work? How will it look? Do I need any thing to bung up any other holes?If it is easy to do why do people go to the lengths of tapping and screwing?
The crimped pipes will be mostly hidden so looks isn't really a big deal. The usual way of doing it is to leave enough of the original pipe to allow it to be crimped first then folded over on itself. Seals fine.
You need a cap to block the front of the airbox where the large AIS pipe fits but large grommets or a cap off a juice box will suffice. Frankly, you can duct tape it and that works just fine.
You will also need a rubber cap for the #4 carb inlet vacuum stub. Get an OE Yamaha part the same as fitted on the other three carbs.
Thanks Mike for your help and knowledge as usual.
I have a few months yet before it needs doing so will chat again with the mechanic and order and find the cap and bungs needed.
Hope you are enjoying warm weather in your neck of the woods.Bike still going well and much improved after your additions and input.
20-01-20, 05:48 PM (This post was last modified: 20-01-20, 05:55 PM by ogri48.)
ricky a cheap, easy (and better looking imho) option is to use epdm silicone caps from vital parts, along with self clamping spring hose clips (in carbon steel black). The fellers on the xjr13 forum (who used to use fazer thou kits) put me on to them. They are heat resistant up to 210 degrees. My fazer is already sorted, but I gotta do the xjr and Dave (Dynspud) will be doing his fazer at the same time. the idea is to use two(4x 12mm inner and 4x15mm over the top) so its belt and braces, held with the spring clip. on the xjr its just a case of putting a bolt in the pipe from the airbox; I think on the fazer you gotta blank a hole off but thats easy done.Im waiting on the inners at the moment as they were out of stock, but got the outers and he clips for mine and daves. bear in mind when ordering they are going by the inner diameter, not the outer, so these in the pic are actually the fifteen mil outers and clip size. you can see what a pain the ais on the xjr is to get the two middle plugs out, especially as there is a flattened trumpet of an air duct over them too that forces air onto the middle two cylinders
