It's on the 98 wiring diagram. You can see it if you follow the ground side of the oil level bulb. The bulb has two paths to ground, one path goes from the bulb to cut off relay to oil level switch to ground so the bulb gets ground when the oil level switch is closed, when the the oil level drops. The other path is from the bulb to cut off relay to alarm connector to start button to ground so the bulb gets ground when the start button is pressed.
The wiring diagram shows a direct connection between the cut off relay and the start button. That is a mistake. There is no direction connection, that was pointed out by unfazed here http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=25456...#msg300493
Or the less scientific way to convince yourself, have a look on Youtube at people starting Fazers, you will see the red oil light come on briefly when they press the start button and go off when the release it
(04-11-19, 10:54 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: Or the less scientific way to convince yourself, have a look on Youtube at people starting Fazers, you will see the red oil light come on briefly when they press the start button and go off when the release it I will make and extra effort to look out for it the next time I go for a spin
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Light comes on with the starter but on my MK1 1999
Fazerfan,
Do you have a link to where you got those bulbs from? That way I can buy them and they'll sit next to my gear indicator for 3 months whilst I find some motivation to change them.
Not in a rush as it's pretty wet out there and my Fazer isn't going to touch the tarmac whilst it's anything less than dry. She might melt....
(04-11-19, 09:07 PM)fazerfan link Wrote: Excellent feedback. Thanks for that. If anyone is tempted to replace all the bulbs there are 9.
For best results you need to match the LED colour to the lenses, e.g. green for indicators, neutral, etc. You can use any colour you want for the dials.
Note the blue LEDs are very bright - great for dials, but not so great for the High beam indicator as it tends to blind you when you have it on. For this reason I left this bulb as the original incandescent bulb.
I can it was originally by Andy Smily Mily Bond on foc-u facebook.
I'll look it up,,
So if there are 9 bulbs in total what is the breakdown of the colours I need.
I.E. How many do the dials? Quite tempted to go blue for the dials. Do I then need 2 green for indicators, 1 green for neutral and a blue for high beam?
3x green, 1x blue, 1x orange, 1x red, 3x what ever colour you want for the dials.
n.b. on my '03 (not sure if it's there on all models) there's also a fixed red led in the rev counter for the temp warning. This can't be changed.
Why do you need the colour bulbs as the accosted warnings have a coloured lens
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
A white LED light through a coloured lense makes it look washed out (e.g. pink instead of red), where as a coloured LED through a coloured lens looks normal. No idea why they are different to old style bulb, but's that's what happens.
08-11-19, 07:02 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-11-19, 07:04 PM by fazersharp.)
(08-11-19, 03:16 PM)Jamieg285 link Wrote: A white LED light through a coloured lense makes it look washed out (e.g. pink instead of red), where as a coloured LED through a coloured lens looks normal. No idea why they are different to old style bulb, but's that's what happens. Too white and bright I suppose thenAlthough and very bright indicator on light would help stop me forgetting to cancel it
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(08-11-19, 03:16 PM)Jamieg285 link Wrote: A white LED light through a coloured lense makes it look washed out (e.g. pink instead of red), where as a coloured LED through a coloured lens looks normal. No idea why they are different to old style bulb, but's that's what happens.
I discovered that on the indicators lenses the'clear' LED's made them distinctly blue. About to change to Green LEDs. After all, it was the indicators I was having trouble seeing in daylight in the first place. (Remember the time the sun shone and we complained it was too hot in our protective gear! You wish now don't you. And I hope no foccer or their friends and kin have been affected by the floods).
Bulbs arrived and I'm gonna get them fitted during the week.
I'm guessing it's a case of removing the screen to get access to the rear of the clocks.
What should happen then?
I've had a feel around and there appears to be a few stud type bolts holding it all together. Do I remove them and drop the back off to get access?
Or do I need to disconnect the wiring?
Screen off, remove multi wired plug, remove fairing infills, undo 3 nuts off studs, remove clock set, remove phillips screws and separate clock housing.
Change bulbs to LEDs and plug instrument clocks back in, ignition on to check LEDs illuminate. If not reverse bulb holder to change polarity. If all is well screw it all back together.
Job done.
So I've done it. Really easy job.
Exactly as BernieEccles described assist from no need to remove infill panels.
Got 1 out of 3 bulbs in the right way on first attempt.
Unfortunately they are worse than the white ones. The odometer is unreadable. The clocks look cool in blue and are useable but not what I wanted.
Not sure if more powerful ones will be any better or whether that's the issue and they're overpowering the odometer.
I've never had a problem seeing the gauges with the standard bulbs. Maybe some new standard bulbs is what you need. You could also measure the voltage you're getting at the bulb to make sure it's the full 12V
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