28-08-15, 10:17 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-08-15, 04:48 PM by Paulfzs.)
took my front left plug out (sitting on the bike) and it was a bit tight then went loose then tight again getting it out...
got it out and it was an arse to get back in going tight and loose.. got it in but could hear it popping where it wasnt tight enough but it was hard to do up so didnt want to overdo it, put a new plug in but its still popping out the plug hole a little...
put my finger over the drain hole put some water round the plug and it was bubbling a little but not sure if its a vibration more than a bubble
Now what?
any easy way to clean the thread incase its covered in dirt or something?
the thread on the spark plug looks fine no damage.
Nothing's easy with you is it? :lol
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
nope 
i seem to attract bad engines..
this one is only on 25k miles, it looks as if it had the original plugs!
i was planning on changing them so took it out to see what condition it was in... im going to buy a poundland drain cleaner brush and see if it makes any difference.. it does up but just gets tight as hell before its sat flush..
rubber washer maybe 
That's why i tend to advise people to use compressed air around the spark plug area before removal.
Because these bikes have plugs in such secluded out of sight areas you dunno what sort of shit is about to drop down the plug hole on removal.
Put a bit of grease or oil, not copper grease, on a decent looking plug and screw in and out by hand a few times and see if it pulls any old grit or metal particles out.
In theory plugs should be able to be put in quite a way by hand so you know they're not cross threading then gently wrenched up or preferably torqued to finish up.
Never force a plug, if it doesn't feel right then the chances are it really isn't.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
As it's a bank holiday weekend most places are closed but pop into your local machine mart & pick up a spark plug thread chaser (little double ended tool) clean the thread with this nice & slowly, gently working it back & forth with plenty of lubricant then if you can blow the area clean with air when you install the new plug put a tiny bit of copper grease on the thread but not near the washer as it doesn't compress!
I had a similar plug issue once in 2009.
I unscrewed the offside plug, which came out fine, but I noticed a copper washer on the bottom of it (as well as the usual spark plug washer). Apart from the bike's first service, I've done every one, and I haven't added an extra copper washer.
In any event I couldn't get the new plug back in the hole, it just locked up almost straight away.
I decided to re-cut the plug threads using an old plug that I cut grooves in with a dremil.
After much piss-malling about, I finally got another spark plug in the hole.
I used Iridium tipped plugs and I haven't changed them since.
The bike had done around 50000 miles when I changed them in 2009
And it's now done over 80000.
I reckon if I ever had to change that plug....that would probably be it..... because I have feeling that whilst I will be able to get the plug out, I don't reckon I'd get another one in.
However until now, I've never come across anyone that has experienced a similar problem.
(29-08-15, 08:19 AM)shaggy link Wrote: As it's a bank holiday weekend most places are closed but pop into your local machine mart & pick up a spark plug thread chaser (little double ended tool) clean the thread with this nice & slowly, gently working it back & forth with plenty of lubricant then if you can blow the area clean with air when you install the new plug put a tiny bit of copper grease on the thread but not near the washer as it doesn't compress!
NO copper grease, it is not needed at all and messes with torque settings, if a wrench is used.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(29-08-15, 09:42 AM)Paul link Wrote: I[size=1em] had a similar plug issue once in 2009.[/size]
[size=1em]I unscrewed the offside plug, which came out fine, but I noticed a copper washer on the bottom of it (as well as the usual spark plug washer). Apart from the bike's first service, I've done every one, and I haven't added an extra copper washer. [/size]
[size=1em]In any event I couldn't get the new plug back in the hole, it just locked up almost straight away. [/size]
[size=1em]I decided to re-cut the plug threads using an old plug that I cut grooves in with a dremil. [/size]
[size=1em]After much piss-malling about, I finally got another spark plug in the hole.[/size]
[size=1em]I used Iridium tipped plugs and I haven't changed them since. [/size]
[size=1em]The bike had done around 50000 miles when I changed them in 2009[/size]
[size=1em]And it's now done over 80000.[/size]
[size=1em]I reckon if I ever had to change that plug....that would probably be it..... because I have feeling that whilst I will be able to get the plug out, I don't reckon I'd get another one in. [/size]
However until now, I've never come across anyone that has experienced a similar problem.
Another good advert for spending a couple of quid more for Iridium plugs.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
I have been a mechanic for 30 years & I did say use it lightly & not near the washer as it doesn't compress but it does stop alloy corrosion! I probably change 60 plus plugs a week & in 99.9% of cases I wouldn't use anything on the threads & don't physically check the gap tho I do look at the gap, don't ever presume the gap is correct cos' the plug is new, plenty of boxes of plugs get dropped! If I ever struggle to remove a plug or snap a plug I will clean the thread, blow the crap out, clean it again then run the chaser back in with a very tiny amount of copper grease (& I do mean tiny amount) before inserting a new plug! You shouldn't use it anywhere near hubs, wheel studs etc as it doesn't compress & messes with torque settings. I have lost count of the amount of times people have complained about warped discs & it is caused by copper grease on hub faces! Iridium plugs do give a cleaner spark, will work with a wider gap using less voltage etc & do last longer but they should still be removed, checked & cleaned! as people do fit & forget they have been known to suffer from tracking on the porcelain.
29-08-15, 04:29 PM
(This post was last modified: 29-08-15, 04:46 PM by darrsi.)
(29-08-15, 03:32 PM)shaggy link Wrote: I have been a mechanic for 30 years & I did say use it lightly & not near the washer as it doesn't compress but it does stop alloy corrosion! I probably change 60 plus plugs a week & in 99.9% of cases I wouldn't use anything on the threads & don't physically check the gap tho I do look at the gap, don't ever presume the gap is correct cos' the plug is new, plenty of boxes of plugs get dropped! If I ever struggle to remove a plug or snap a plug I will clean the thread, blow the crap out, clean it again then run the chaser back in with a very tiny amount of copper grease (& I do mean tiny amount) before inserting a new plug! You shouldn't use it anywhere near hubs, wheel studs etc as it doesn't compress & messes with torque settings. I have lost count of the amount of times people have complained about warped discs & it is caused by copper grease on hub faces! Iridium plugs do give a cleaner spark, will work with a wider gap using less voltage etc & do last longer but they should still be removed, checked & cleaned! as people do fit & forget they have been known to suffer from tracking on the porcelain.
No offence intended Shaggy. 
You can add caliper bolts to the list of where to not use copper grease as well. I used a torque wrench and it went through the thread like butter :'(
[size=1em]I spent ages at work one day searching for a washer with the exact thickness of a spark plug gap which i carry about in my wallet.[/size]
[size=1em]Always good to be prepared. [/size] :lol
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
No offence taken, takes more than that to offend me lol
I see copperslip regularly on caliper bolts but the idiots then don't put it on the sliding parts! another classic is people putting it on bleed nipples then wonder why they still have slightly spongy brakes! I once went on a course where they demonstrated the torque difference on wheel studs with & without copper grease, the difference was a staggering 15NM might not seem a lot but at one time Porsche used to recommend it!!! Might have got away with it but I wouldn't fancy driving a performance car where the wheels aren't tight!! :eek
I used to use it on nearly everything, but when i messed my caliper up i found this article and it did make perfect sense.
I still use it now but very sparingly and not with a torque wrench.
http://benmlee.com/4runner/threads/threads.htm
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
shortly i shall be helicoptering it i say this because like my rc helicopters they break.
hopefully it works.
woo fixed
bought a bottle cleaning brush with a small end on it, compressed air to blow the dirt out, took plug out, lots of wd40 in the hole and brush in out round and round more wd40 and screwed back in fine
now nice and tight no leakings.
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