Did the FZS1000's ever suffer from front sprocket nut problems like the 600's did?
The reason I ask is due to a chain snappage I'm changing the full set and there doesn't seem to be that much thread in the nut (width wise) and it wasn't as tight as I was expecting, having a 600 before it made me question it.
Can anyone tell me what torque it should be done up to?
I've heard of a few but invariably because owner replaced front sprocket and re-used the old locking washer. The tabs can fracture and if the nut isn't torqued high enough, it can back off.
On my last Fazer I had the sprocket cover off to replace the little gear selector spring, my heart nearly stopped when I noticed a complete absence of any nut or lock washer!
I don't know how long I had been riding it like that, I got another from the local Yammy dealer who said they see quite a few and loctite them as a matter of course.
I thoroughly degreased the new nut and threads on the shaft before applying loctite, so far (touch wood) I've had no repeat of missing nuts.
(13-05-15, 09:40 AM)shrekster link Wrote: On my last Fazer I had the sprocket cover off to replace the little gear selector spring, my heart nearly stopped when I noticed a complete absence of any nut or lock washer!
I don't know how long I had been riding it like that, I got another from the local Yammy dealer who said they see quite a few and loctite them as a matter of course.
I thoroughly degreased the new nut and threads on the shaft before applying loctite, so far (touch wood) I've had no repeat of missing nuts.
Jim.
Yup. Happened to me. I didn't know Yamaha dealers Loctited them when I replaced the chain and sprockets so a few days after, I heard this zizz noise from the sprocket and thought 'I'll have a look at what that was when I get home". 50 motorway miles later, I took the cover off and yup, the nut was sitting on the frame rail. The zizz noise was the splines chewing the lock ring.
I really torqued it up and it did it again within a hundred miles. Loctite is mandatory.
Avoid 'HI LEVEL' tab washers from ebay, I just fitted a new one and both tabs fractured on first bending, I recon it's been embrittled by the plating process.
Could feel it go as I bent it over but it stayed in place so would have left me with an untabbed sprocket, nice!
I brought my FZS1000 new on 1st March 2006,in 2013 i decided to replace the chain & sprockets at 22,000 miles & yes after I bent the lock washer back the nut was only finger tight but I had no problems with the original chain & since fitting a new chain & sprockets i had no problems but i did check it twice in the first 1000miles
Mine came off two weeks ago. Don't know how long it had rattled around for but I have no thread in the nut and damage to the output shaft. It had new chain and sprockets before I bought it 5,000 miles ago.
Trying to find thread pitch of the shaft/nut which I believe to be M22 x 1.5 but haven't been able to confirm this yet.
I'm having exactly the opposite trouble? Can't get the nut undone, period!
Local guy managed, but says final drive bearing / dynamo just as tight - HE's unable to get those out (mentioned "specialist tools", I'm taking my thinking hammer tomorrow), recommending reconditioned motor.
This all for the 100,000 (trouble free) Km service, only trouble being the motor'll set me back about £700, plus £300 tax!
Wondering if there might be any tips / tricks to aid removal?
Thanks in advance
Hehehe, just moved up to Chiang Mai here, new guy on the maintenance. Ya think he might be testing the water regarding how much of a mug / easily separated from my hard-earned I am...? :rolleyes
Will show him my "Specialist" WD40 (original - no Chinese writing!), nut splitter & 4Lb lump-hammer. If I must buy a new'un (no service-exchange available), will ensure the old'un ONLY good for spares, lol!
Remove the Chain guard/hugger, put the wooden handle of a shovel over the top of the swinging arm and through the wheel.
Flatten the tab washer and use a metre long bar attached to the socket, that will open it. :lol Oh by the way! turn it anti Clockwise :rollin
Sorry!
My mistake - he'd actually removed it with a minimum of fuss.
Unsure if I should in fact start a new thread for this, as the only thing it has in common with front sprocket....it's on the same bike! My apologies, I was told "Near the electric plate is stuck on"
Generator rotor! Lol!!
Heading down again tomorrow after missing him today, he's sent pics demonstrating use of the correct pulling tool - it looked like he'd REALLY been giving it some welly by the distressed state of the shaft.
Any ideas apart from puller combined with gentle persuasion - doubtless attempted already?
(27-10-15, 01:56 PM)Thai link Wrote: Sorry!
My mistake - he'd actually removed it with a minimum of fuss.
Unsure if I should in fact start a new thread for this, as the only thing it has in common with front sprocket....it's on the same bike! My apologies, I was told "Near the electric plate is stuck on"
Generator rotor! Lol!!
Heading down again tomorrow after missing him today, he's sent pics demonstrating use of the correct pulling tool - it looked like he'd REALLY been giving it some welly by the distressed state of the shaft.
Any ideas apart from puller combined with gentle persuasion - doubtless attempted already?
This is what I received from him just, I reckon I should take my old puller - it'll be the first use it's had in 15 years, might as well leave it with him. Looks like he's welded a couple of odd bolts together to fabricate the"specialist tool" no wonder the spindle is looking a bit beaten up...
![[Image: 125377.png]](http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-uk/125377.png)
