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rear wheel and chain adjustment query
#21
Chain free play is 35mm
New chain and sprockets. I've fitted many over rtse years to many bikes
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#22
When you nip it up and it's 2mm out as you say, what does the wheel and chain feel and sound like?
Is the wheel moving freely without any iffy noises, and does the chain look like it's moving smoothly without any grinding or clunking going on?


If the wheel seems okay and more importantly the chain looks like it's running true and consistent then i would be inclined to think that maybe your markers aren't 100% accurate, which i doubt anyone's are bang on to be truthful.


It's more about the action of the chain, if it looks like it's running sweetly then i'd get it as close as you can to the markers and give it a ride.
If it is totally wrong then you'll soon pick up on it by chain noise.
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#23
(26-08-14, 07:18 AM)NorthWestern link Wrote:The screwdriver (or rag as someone else suggested) pulls the whole wheel forward.  Granted its mainly on the drive side but it should be enough to pull both sides up to the stops.  If it isn't, or you find the final torque is pulling it out then I would suggest something else might be amiss. 


I can certainly see the logic in the screwdriver method and if spindle,washers and frame being straight should come in to line at final torque.
Perhaps give the method another try MC without keeping a check on the other side until you've tightened to proper torque.
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#24
Sorted!

I got a pal to push the tyre/wheel forward to front of bike with his foot. This took up freeplay at r/h adjuster and I quickly nipped up the r/h adjuster nuts then torqued up the axle nut
All fine now.
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Many thanks to ask you kind people for the suggestions.
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