read this and going to do the mod - i ride 10months of the year
http://foc-u.co.uk/wiki/index.php?title=...0s_only%29
couple of Qs:
1. what is the fettling required and does anyone have pics to highlight the issue and the fettling required - I've also heard that the caliper in situ is very close/fouls the disc ? is it really a straight swap - I'm not mechanical and have few mechanical tools , most of my stuff is for electrics
2. I've got 4 litres (2x2) brake fluid that I opened about two years ago and only used a bit. Is this no good for replacing brake fluid (after I do this mod)
03-08-14, 11:56 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-08-14, 11:16 AM by unfazed.)
(03-08-14, 09:48 PM)keratos link Wrote:read this and going to do the mod - i ride 10months of the year
http://foc-u.co.uk/wiki/index.php?title=...0s_only%29
couple of Qs:
1. what is the fettling required and does anyone have pics to highlight the issue and the fettling required - I've also heard that the caliper in situ is very close/fouls the disc ? is it really a straight swap - I'm not mechanical and have few mechanical tools , most of my stuff is for electrics
2. I've got 4 litres (2x2) brake fluid that I opened about two years ago and only used a bit. Is this no good for replacing brake fluid (after I do this mod)
As fizzy pies said, almost a straight swap. The issue is that on the standard 600 caliper bracket mounting holes will not line up with the Blue spot caliper they are about 1.5mm out. Filing about 2.5 mm off the bracket to get them to fit, this will also give a little clearance for any heat expansion issues.
Emijaydee has some pics when he did his in April http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=12420.0 It is difficult to see if he allowed any clearance from the pictures.
The original is quite a good caliper, but the drain holes block to easily holding winter salt laden water in the caliper for longer, thus allowing corrosion to take a hold if they are not cleared regularly. Bue spot caliper does not have the problem as the pads are removed from the bottom and does not rely on drain holes to drain off the water.
In reply to your brake fluid question, I would not use an unsealed one after 2 years, but a sealed one I would use.
inisightful as usual unfazed. cheers pal. thanks for the pic link - I understand now - although I dont own a dremmel so a flat file and sandpaper may be called for with a lick of paint underneath to protect?
http://www.beginnerbiker.com/2014/06/fit...-calipers/
Dead easy swap. Just a spot of filing in two spots. Took about half hour with mini Dremel-esque sander and a hand file Bolt it on at rear, then swing it up, it'll be very obvious where it needs to be filed. Emijaydee pics make it very clear too. You'll find it hard going with just sand paper, do yourself a favour and pick up some files from local store. Pick up some fresh Brake fluid whilst you're there, it'll only cost you a fiver-ish - no point going through hassle of bleeding brakes etc, and sticking old fluid in.
The mount is cast Aluminium so no need to touch it up with paint.
Note the caliper won't sit perfect centre on the disc, you'll need to pop in a small washer on each bolt to get alignment spot on
(04-08-14, 01:48 PM)Arfa link Wrote:http://www.beginnerbiker.com/2014/06/fit...-calipers/
Dead easy swap. Just a spot of filing in two spots. Took about half hour with mini Dremel-esque sander and a hand file Bolt it on at rear, then swing it up, it'll be very obvious where it needs to be filed. Emijaydee pics make it very clear too. You'll find it hard going with just sand paper, do yourself a favour and pick up some files from local store. Pick up some fresh Brake fluid whilst you're there, it'll only cost you a fiver-ish - no point going through hassle of bleeding brakes etc, and sticking old fluid in.
The mount is cast Aluminium so no need to touch it up with paint.
Note the caliper won't sit perfect centre on the disc, you'll need to pop in a small washer on each bolt to get alignment spot on ok pal.
any chance of pics of washers in situ or how/where to apply - forgive me but as I answer electrical/technological problems and have lots of electronic test equipment to hand, my mechanics are still on a learning curve.
We will let you figure where to put the washers to assist you in your learning curve :pokefun
Post a picture and we will tell if you are wrong or right :lol
A word of advice use the half round file fizzy pies suggested and as Arfa pointed out no painting, unless of course you want to.
Oh yeah, just because you can answer Electrical /technolgical problems and have all the electronic equipment, it is not much use a to a fellow with a £10 meter from the local car shop, living a few 100 miles away from you, who may not understand electrical/electronic terminology and barely knows how to test for voltage and continuity :lol
How many do you know who can barely use a meter for basic items, but could not safely test the current flow in a circuit to provide an conclusion?
Didn't get this bit at all ..
(02-01-70, 04:05 PM)unfazed link Wrote:Oh yeah, just because you can answer Electrical /technolgical problems and have all the electronic equipment, it is not much use a to a fellow with a £10 meter from the local car shop, living a few 100 miles away from you, who may not understand electrical/electronic terminology and barely knows how to test for voltage and continuity :lol
How many do you know who can barely use a meter for basic items, but could not safely test the current flow in a circuit to provide an conclusion? What's that got to do with the OP
ah well....
04-08-14, 10:38 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-08-14, 10:43 PM by Paulfzs.)
I did this to mine as my old caliper was wrecked!!
some filing needs to be done on the old caliper mount, or a lot of filing in my case as my file was almost smooth lol.
got it on eventually and yes its an easy swap! makes a big difference, no binding, no seizing up and better stopping power.
any questions just ask im happy to help.
on the image ive shown where I had to file, it may be different for you...
easiest way is to find your girlfriend, steal her nail varnish (the cheap shit) and plaster it on the caliper then put it onto where it needs to go itll leave the varnish on the caliper mount where you need to file
the 3 points on mine i had to file off, the far right i had to file on the mount as you look at it as it sticks out but the other 2 are on the underneath, file the middle upwards and the left towards the bolt hole.
yours may be slightly different.
As for m10 washers, 1 washer between the caliper and the caliper bracket will pull it out and seat it correctly.
(04-08-14, 10:38 PM)Paulfzs link Wrote:I did this to mine as my old caliper was wrecked!!
some filing needs to be done on the old caliper mount, or a lot of filing in my case as my file was almost smooth lol.
got it on eventually and yes its an easy swap! makes a big difference, no binding, no seizing up and better stopping power.
any questions just ask im happy to help.
Now that IS a sensible pragmatic helpful offer. I'll come back to you on this if I may once I source a calliper. THANKYOU
quoted me before id retyped the rest
i paid £70 posted from rich on here, £50-£80 is a good price to pay but theyre rare!! best bet is to ask here as ebay youll have no chance!! a new one went on ebay for £168! and yes i did bid all the way up to £164 before being beaten at the last second.
trx calipers fit but theyre hard to find and loads more work.
it really is an easy job the filing was an arse but i used a flat file wiith fairly smooth edges but none the less half hour the caliper was on and bled through.
Great info and insight. Thanks paulfzs. Real help
Paulfzs, can I use a 2001 FZ1/1000 bracket and then the matching caliper; will the bracket fit my 2000 FZS600?
only reason I ask is that on the FZ1 caliper the axle fitting looks similar but the caliper torque arm mount is on the left not right which suggests to me that the caliper is fitted on the other side of the bike compared to the FZS?
No, you can't use the 1000 hanger. I can't remember the reason why, but I guess it would put the caliper in the wrong place. You have to use and modify the 600 hanger.
As above, can't use the mount, you can keep the 600 torque arm on its no real problem.
(06-08-14, 01:04 PM)Paulfzs link Wrote:As above, can't use the mount, you can keep the 600 torque arm on its no real problem.
Yep. And if you you fancy a silver Fazer 1000 torque/tension arm, you have to get the one off the Thunderace. The Fazer Thou arm is the wrong length.
So to sum up, you need:
FZS1000 or XJR1300 blue spot caliper.
FZS600 mount
Couple of small washers to centre caliper on disc.
FZS600 rear brake hose.
FZS600 or Thunderace torque/tension arm
(FZS1000 rear pads, not same as FZS600)
or:-
TRX850 caliper
TRX mount
Slightly longer hose.
(06-08-14, 01:45 PM)Arfa link Wrote:[quote author=Paulfzs link=topic=14238.msg161389#msg161389 date=1407326654]
As above, can't use the mount, you can keep the 600 torque arm on its no real problem.
Yep. And if you you fancy a silver Fazer 1000 torque/tension arm, you have to get the one off the Thunderace. The Fazer Thou arm is the wrong length.
So to sum up, you need:
FZS1000 or XJR1300 blue spot caliper.
FZS600 mount
Couple of small washers to centre caliper on disc.
FZS600 rear brake hose.
FZS600 or Thunderace torque/tension arm
(FZS1000 rear pads, not same as FZS600)
or:-
TRX850 caliper
TRX mount
Slightly longer hose.
[/quote]
Or a regular 30min cleaning schedule for fzs original
Women have chocolate men have bikes.....
including ones who like chocolate....
just to add,
the bluespot needs to come from a 2001 to 2005 model of FZ1000 .
Three lefts make a right
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