Been riding 10 years; before that never knew one end of a spanner from a screwdriver. But over the years have slowly picked things up and now have a fairly respectable set of tools and can confidently perform a 3 spanner job (balancing carbs).
So I'm thinking of replacing the cylinder head with a new one, which Haynes describes as 4 spanners. Was reading it in bed last night and although it looks long winded, and will definitely take me some time, none of the steps looks tooo difficult.
Has anyone done this and got any tips?
If you remove the head, do you not need to have it skimmed?
Depends on your spannering skills, it's a big enough job and potentially expensive one if you get the camshaft timing wrong when reassembling.
Most of the grief is preparation eg getting the carbs & particularly exhausts off
Why do you want / need to replace it?
If you must do it don't undo half the head bolts and stop to read the manual for ages as it'll warp and need skimming, if a head is flat theres no need to skim.
What is the reason for taking the head off? Doing it for fun is a stupid idea, what is wrong with the old one?
Save the planet...It's the only one with beer!
:o
Needed to remove the downpipes and have been spraying with wd40 for about 3 weeks. Three came off fine but whilst undoing the 4th, the third broke preesumably due to a sideways pressure. I should have stopped then as I proceeded to sheer the 6th. I've left the last two for later.
Wd40 not good enough. For that sort of heavy duty penetrant work, use Plusgas or even better Kroil or Mousemilk
PB Blaster is good stuff too.
the exhaust studs just aren't big enough and the nuts should be closed at the end not open. that has to be one of the few annoying things about the fazer
Still no need to fit a new head though mate, your local engineering firm will get the broken studs out for peanuts compared to the cost of a new head. They may even be able to do it with the head on the block, anyone had experience of this?
It should be possible without the drastic action of a cylinder head removal. you can sometimes drill out the stud in stages by going up by drill sizes and tapping out the final bit, or, getting hold of a helicoil set and doing it this way. You may need to remove the front forks for easier access, especially if you're working at floor level. but don't forget to prop up the bike. Or alternativly take it to your local bike shop they must come across this quite alot and even if costs a few quid it's cheaper than a cylinder head job.
hope this helps.
If its 2 or 3 you'll need to remove the head, access is very limited due to the frame
Head off is a job that looks harder than it is, if you follow the book carefully, brake it down in to smaller jobs, take pictures and use correct torque settings on reassembly it can be quite easy if time consuming. Also gives you a chance to check valve heads and clearences as the cams are coming out. Gaskits around £50 and could be all done in a weekend if you get stuck in.
Good luck with it if you choose to remove it.
There ain't arf been some clever bastards
![[Image: 151860.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/151860.png)
![[Image: 242673.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/242673.png)
![[Image: 174802.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/174802.png)
