Ignition Barrel

[PieEater]

Hi Fokkers, I got the old girl out of the garage yesterday and when I turned the ignition on it was dead, I tried a couple of times and then gave up and ordered a new battery. New battery fitted, same problem, I checked the main fuse and it seemed fine but I replaced it with the spare anyway. When I went to turn the key the next time it's like something shifted in the lock and everything came alive and the bike started fine. I put the old battery back in and again it was fine. So I suspect there's something worn in the ignition lock, I've put a load of ACF50 down it and it's nice and smooth now. Does anyone have any advice, is it a case of flushing the lock through with loads of WD40 or can you take the lock off and clean up the internals?

Update: I've flushed it through with some dry lube and switch cleaner which will hopefully do the trick, it doesn't look like removing the lock is an easy proposition.

[Trebus]

Not as bad to get off as you might think but you do need to get the yoke off. The bolts are anti-tamper so will need to be drilled out but not too tight.

I stripped my ignition down the other day for a similar problem, 2 more anti-tamper bolts to drill out if you go down this route.

[PieEater]

Not as bad to get off as you might think but you do need to get the yoke off. The bolts are anti-tamper so will need to be drilled out but not too tight.

I stripped my ignition down the other day for a similar problem, 2 more anti-tamper bolts to drill out if you go down this route.

That's good to know, was it worth the effort of stripping it down and cleaning it out or do you think it would be better just to replace the barrel?

[Trebus]

I’d say it was worth it.

To change it you’ve got to get the 2 bolts out anyway, probably took another hour to strip down the switch and clean it. But the main advantage is retaining a single key for ignition/ tank / seat lock