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Clutch won’t disengage after start
#1
Hi. 
I’ve returned to biking after many years (almost 30) and have bought a 2003 FZS600. It’s in great condition and I’m loving riding it.  
I’ve recently joined this forum and have already found loads of useful information but can’t find an answer to one small issue I have with my bike:
Sometimes when I’ve left it a few days and start it up in neutral, when I then try and put it into 1st, the clutch obviously hasn’t disengaged (even though I’ve pulled the lever!) and the bike stalls. The lever feels completely normal and generally, after I’ve forced it back into neutral and restarted it, the clutch is then completely normal, occasionally it takes a few goes before it ‘un-seizes’.  Sometimes I exercise the clutch a few times before starting and then it’s fine, other times not. Once running everything returns to normal. 
I suspect the clutch is ‘sticking’ on when left but, if that’s the case, I’d have thought the lever would feel stiff?

Any ideas??
Cheers.
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#2
If the clutch was engaged, then the machine would lurch forward when started. As it stalls immediately on egaging first, Id check the side stand and clutch lever switches first
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#3
(06-08-24, 08:35 AM)agricola Wrote: If the clutch was engaged, then the machine would lurch forward when started. As it stalls immediately on egaging first, Id check the side stand and clutch lever switches first

Thanks for the reply. It does lurch forward if I try to start in 1st with the clutch lever pulled. I’ve checked the side stand switch a clutch lever switch, I’m confident they are not the issue. (It’s stalling/lurching not cutting out)
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#4
If it lurches forwards with the lever pulled in, the clutch needs adjusting properly still.
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
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#5
(06-08-24, 08:51 AM)BBROWN1664 Wrote: If it lurches forwards with the lever pulled in, the clutch needs adjusting properly still.

Thank you. I’m not sure that’s the issue because once the clutch has ‘unstuck’ it is perfectly adjusted and only lurches when the bike is first started after sitting a few days, as if the clutch is not disengaging despite the lever being pulled. As I say, this normally only happens once then is completely fine despite there being no change in the way the clutch lever ‘feels’ Huh
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#6
Do you know if the clutch was ever changed? Usually this is down to incorrect adjustment of the clutch. Check it at the sprocket cover side and there should be 5mm play at the cable side of lever to the lever holder.


How to adjust the clutch at the sprocket cover end
Now,
Screw in the cable adjuster in full at the lever end.Remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover
Loosen the lock nut with a deep good quality ring spanner or a 6 sided socket( it will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you)
Turn the lock nut anti clockwise a full turn
Hold you fingers lightly on the clutch lever
Turn the centre screw clockwise with a good fitting flat screwdriver
You will feel the lever moving out
Keep turning the screw until the lever is about 5 to 6mm from the lever housing.
Tighten the locknut.
Replace the rubber bung
Take the final adjustments at the cable adjuster
If you cannot get less than 10mm at the lever or the adjuster screw tightens replace the cable
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#7
(06-08-24, 03:25 PM)unfazed Wrote: Do you know if the clutch was ever changed? Usually this is down to incorrect adjustment of the clutch. Check it at the sprocket cover side and there should be 5mm play at the cable side of  lever to the lever holder.


How to adjust the clutch at the sprocket cover end
Now,
Screw in the cable adjuster in full at the lever end.Remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover
Loosen the lock nut with a deep good quality ring spanner or a 6 sided socket( it will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you)
Turn the lock nut anti clockwise a full turn
Hold you fingers lightly on the clutch lever
Turn the centre screw clockwise with a good fitting flat screwdriver
You will feel the lever moving out
Keep turning the screw until the lever is about 5 to 6mm from the lever housing.
Tighten the locknut.
Replace the rubber bung
Take the final adjustments at the cable adjuster
If you cannot get less than 10mm at the lever or the adjuster screw tightens replace the cable

I don’t think it’s been changed recently (the bike came with loads of paperwork) but I’ll give that a go. But why would it not disengage and then be fine?? Cheers.
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#8
Other options are that the plates are sticking due to contamination, check what the oil looks like on the dipstick, and possibly overfilled with oil
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#9
Thumbs Up 
(06-08-24, 04:45 PM)agricola Wrote: Other options are that the plates are sticking due to contamination, check what the oil looks like on the dipstick, and possibly overfilled with oil
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