Dead Battery?

[Middy2000]

Bike laid up over winter during which time I forgot to charge it so it did go flat.


Been using it since beginning of month.  13mile journey each way.  On one journey I used the heated grips.  As I got near work the dials stopped working on idle but came back with revs.  Instantly thought battery was flat from using grips. 


When I went to return home the bike was flat.  Wouldn't start.  Had enough power to attempt to turn over but did a couple of turns before making an odd buzzer type sound. 
Push started it and it was fine on the way home.


Charged battery and all was good for last fortnight.


Used the bike yesterday no issues.


Tonight it's flat again and doing the same thing.  Couple of turns before the odd noise.


Is this common with Fazers and low batteries.  When I've previously flattened the battery it's been totally dead.


My concern is that I've an electrical fault draining the battery.  I actually hope it's just that the battery is past it's best.  Could be the original one fitted.  2001 plate with 11k miles.

[darrsi]

It can happen with batteries if left for long periods of time uncharged, or not used regularly.
Ideally you want to get a volt meter on it and make sure everything is charging okay on the bike before contemplating a new one.
Charge it up first, then after letting it settle take a reading, a good battery will read 12.8 or above.
Then take another reading with the bike ticking over, it should be in the mid 13v or even higher, it will rise if you were to rev the engine, but that's not necessary.
Test it again with nothing switched on the next day, if it is in poor condition the volts will have dropped significantly.

[Gnasher]

No there's no issues with OE spec Fazer batteries, Yes it's common for owners to forget to charge their bike over winter and it's very possible you've buggered yours, but all isn't lost. 

All batteries discharge over time and this will accelerate if left connected to the bike, even if it's not switched on, current is being drawn from the battery, more so if you've got an alarm. Your typical alarm will flatten a good battery in 3 - 12 weeks depending on what type of alarm and temperature.  If disconnected and stored in your home, it will last many months.  If a battery is left to discharge too much, a standard rechange won't restore it, you'll need a special recovery programme charge, it's also possible even that can't save it.  I won't get into cheap Chinese batteries, especially gel types :rolleyes

Most bike batteries/charging systems aren't (as standard) made to run accessories, also most charging systems aren't pumping out much below 5k. Which means the battery is supplying the power, if your battery isn't fully charged or has dead cells it's not going to last long. Heated grips are power hungry, some older types drawing up to 8 amps your 13 mile journey (one way) will be taking more out of the battery than the system can replace.  Think of it like a tank of 10lts, you're taking out 2lt but only putting back 1lt per day it's not going to take long to run it empty/flat.  Just testing the charging voltage wont tell you the battery is naff, just the charging system is working, similarly a voltage test across the battery won't tell you, cell are damaged, it will still show 12v plus if they are.  You need a draw/load test, not easy if you've not go the kit and if done without it you could fry the battery.       

Get yourself something like an optimate 3 or 4 https://optimate1.com/om3/ will do or higher if you want it to charge your car or Ctek charger https://www.ctek.com/uk/products/car/mxs-3-8-uk this will charge all bikes and most cars.  Both are around £50 ish, you can also buy an array of connections to suit your needs.

Both will run diagnostics, will run a recovery programme and tell you if your battery is buggered, both you can leave 24/7 or just top up once a month.  If your battery is buggered don't buy cheap, about £45 upwards, yes you can get them for £25 or less but it's a gamble.     

[YamFazFan]

.

[fazersharp]

I have the ctek charger but branded yam.
I leave it connected to the bike 24,7 when not in use - like an optimate, its the original GS battery and is 23 years old. I may go 6 weeks without a ride but then do 60 ~100 miles. Almost 24k on the clock.

[Middy2000]

Right,


I've charged the battery.  It's reading 12.6v with ignition on and then jumps up to around 13.4 with the ignition off.  I guess it needs a little time to settle as I tested it straight after taking it off charge. 


I'll keep testing over the coming days to see how much it discharges with and without use.

[Disorderlypunk]

one more test to be done is a parasitic draw test but may need a few others to give there readings aswell as small draws are to be expected by the clock, alarm etc
disconnect the battery +terminal and put a multimeter between and see how many milliamps are being drawn with ignition on and ignition off with lights heated grips etc off obviously
if anyone else does this please note which alarm system you have fitted


haynes manual says there should be a current leakage of 1mA (max) but that doesnt include alarm if fitted but i can probably find out the draw if i know the alarm model,

[Middy2000]

Just ran a test with engine on.


Without the lights on it's pulling about 14.2
With the lights on its down to 13.2

[Disorderlypunk]

its the engine off thats the important one that was more for my little notebook :-)