(22-04-17, 12:29 PM)vinnyb link Wrote: In a reckless fit of curiosity, I decided this morning to see if my header nuts would come off without snapping any studs. I thought I'd just go at it really gently and if they don't move I'd leave them for the moment and worry about them when I need to but if they do I'd remove them one at a time, fill them with CoppaSlip and replace them. Well I'm thrilled, overjoyed, ecstatic, pretty relieved to report that they all came off with no problems at all. :thumbup :woot
:thumbup I was the same even though I had soaked them for weeks and I didnt need to do them it was like a button that says Do Not Press I couldn't help myself. All was good for me too. (no rain miles )
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Mine's only done 9,000 miles and looks like it hasn't been out in too much bad weather (even though the front of the barrels and one or two other areas look like they have) I think the thing to do is just take them off an reapply CoppaSlip regularly to prevent future problems.
A word of warning, if you are going to use that acid etch primer, it requires that every last scrap of black paint is removed, which is really an engine out job. Mine looks a bit like a dogs dinner now. :'( all the other bits are done, water pipes, headers, snapped the bottom radiator bolt off trying to remove the rad, so back to the shop for drilling ! And waiting on the correct exhaust stud to arrive, they sent an M10 !
GC
Why? What happens if you spray over the old paint? There's no way the engine's coming out. I was planning to just remove the flaky, loose stuff and deoxidize the bare metal with alubright, etch prime just the areas that need it, then respray with PJ1 satin black. I've got a lot of masking to do before I start spraying. I was wondering if I could use standard gloss black paint on my radiator or if it would be unable to tolerate the heat. I can't decide whether to get the exhaust ceramic coated. It's pricey but no more than a stainless system. I'll probably just respray it for now, dunno yet.
if you use the bike a lot like me just wire brush what you can get to on the frame and wait for a engine out catastrophy before you repaint the engine
-ive used hammerite smooth on the frame and on a few of the scratched casings that are a bit cooler then engine block
- she can wait till the full rebuild for her makeover
Thanks to everyone for the replies, I only do 2 to 3,000 mile a year and do winter at all anymore. I like my bike to be as immaculate as possible and the Fazer's pretty good generally with just a few bits letting it down. The front of the engine, the radiator and the exhaust are the main issues so I want to sort them first but I'm not dropping the engine out, so if the etch primer is going to cause me problems I'll not use it, thanks for the head up Ghost Cat. The deoxidiser is phosphoric acid based so that may give the PJ1 a pretty good key anyway. I've used Sperex Flameproof VHT with good results in the past so I'll use that on the pipes. If standard rattle can paint will cope with the temperatures the radiator reaches I'll take advantage of the 4 for 3 offer on Halfords paints and get gloss for the radiator and the centre and side stand and some satin for the wheels. Hopefully that'll be about it but your never really finished are you? I bought a Fazer just to ride and not worry too much about it's condition, though my wife and a couple of my mates (and my tame mechanic) told me it would become a project, but that's half the fun isn't it? I don't mind how much time I spend on it, I just don't want it to cost a fortune.
Let us know how you get on. With pictures please!
I won't be starting it for a little while but I will post a couple of pics soon cos I haven't posted any yet.
Trying to download a couple of pics but it won't let me. Don't know what I'm doing wrong :'(
and notice they also can be undone using allen key.