Tightening Top Yoke Nut

[Simon.Pieman]

Can anyone suggest a sure fire method of tightening the yoke nut in such a way that it doesn't put a slight twist on the top yoke leaving you with a skewed handlebar? I'm on my third 're-tighten' since replacing head bearings and I've nearly got it straight but it's still tipped to the right a bit, obviously pulled round by the tightening torque. It's not a disaster, just annoying.
I'll get it right sooner or later but my method of deliberately skewing the handlebars to the left before tightening is a bit crude. Has anyone got a better method?

[Fazerider]

I don't recall having that difficulty when I did mine, and there shouldn't be much difference between the 600 and the 1000 from that point of view.
I had the bike on the centrestand and propped so that the front wheel was off the ground and pointed straight ahead and just torqued it up, with my left hand braced against the left handlebar. You're not using the r/h endstop and bracing against the bike itself are you? Can't think why it would twist otherwise.

[Falcon 269]

I did it by fitting the forks in temporarily, tightening the lower yoke clamp bolts but leaving the top yoke clamp bolts just nipped up enough to establish a parallelogram, if you follow my drift?  The top clamp has to allow the fork legs to move through a fraction as the yoke nut is torqued up.

[unfazed]

:agree exactly what I do :thumbup

[Simon.Pieman]

I did it by fitting the forks in temporarily, tightening the lower yoke clamp bolts but leaving the top yoke clamp bolts just nipped up enough to establish a parallelogram, if you follow my drift?  The top clamp has to allow the fork legs to move through a fraction as the yoke nut is torqued up.

I see now, of course the yoke has to move down with the nut as you torque it up. The top set of pinch bolts need to be loose enough to let this happen -and loose enough to let the parallelogram 'true up'.