starting up

[malcolmmcdonald]

Hi fellow Fazer folks, and happy new year to all. I'm new to the forum, so the title of this thread has double meaning.
[/size]I'd really like to pick your brains on something, if that's okay.
[/size]First, the facts:
[/size]I live in the Highlands and ride an '01 Fazer FZS600, which I bought as a first big bike after getting my full licence in Sept '14 (I rode a wee bike back in the 70s on an L-plate  - as you did). It's a brilliant bike, and I've had zero problems with it. Up here, a lot of riders just accept that you probably can't ride a full year - once the salt grit is down on the roads, most folks put the bike in the garage till February.
[/size]I don't have a garage, but the bike survived last winter (14-15) entirely unscathed under an Oxford Stormtech cover. This winter, the same: I take the Oxford off every couple of weeks to (a) gaze longingly at my bike and (b) see how the battery's doing. I also turn the engine over and give it some revs (although I know this isn't universally endorsed as a good idea - I just like to let it clear its throat a bit).
[/size]Past couple of times (today and two weeks ago) I started her up, here's what happened:

1. [/size]started on full choke, as usual - high revs immediately (higher than usual, I think)
   
2. [/size]after a while, closed the choke down - revs steadied to a normalish 1K
   
3. [/size]a gentle twist of the throttle up to 2K - engine cut out
   
4. [/size]restart - back to 1K revs - the same gentle twist of the throttle - engine either responded, cut out, or faltered a little under 1K
   
5. [/size]left running for a few minutes - throttle responded pretty much as normal up to 4K revs
   

[/size]In daily use it starts up first or second time on the choke, and probably needs a minute or so of high revs before I close the choke to idle.
[/size]I'm a real noob when it comes to technical stuff, but very keen to learn as much as possible - even just to be able to explain to the (very good) bike mechanic up the road. I'd really appreciate any ideas on what may be happening with my bike.
[/size]
[/size]Thanks - any help much appreciated.

[Ruby Racing]

Welcome!


If you're not charging the battery then you're doing more harm by starting it infrequently. Best bet is to remove the battery and take it into the house to keep it warm, as the cold kills batteries.


As for the running issues I don't know, however I would suggest as it's not being started very often it's just taking a bit of time to settle down.

[darrsi]

Hello Malcolm, welcome to the forum mate.

Have you considered obvious things like for instance when the air filter was last changed?
If it can't breathe properly it can cause cutting out or run a bit throaty.

[Fazer Forever]

Sounds exactly like mine. Often pops and farts a bit after it's not been started for a while. I've never worried about it as it clears up in about 5 minutes.

[darrsi]

Make sure you put the choke on BEFORE you start the bike as well, it all gets a bit messy if you try putting it on after starting.

[Frosties]

Sounds exactly like mine. Often pops and farts a bit after it's not been started for a while. I've never worried about it as it clears up in about 5 minutes.

:agree  same here if left longer than a couple of weeks.

[fazersharp]

Yep mine too "complains" if I have left it too long between rides and trying to rev it too soon on a fresh start after a long (weeks) rest will result in a bog down, I just go easy with it.
Its the bikes way of telling me off for not riding
If I dont leave it too long between rides then I only have to go near the start button and it starts !

[Fazerider]

It's possible that you're getting a bit of carb icing.
The heater circuit that circulates warm coolant through the carbs can get blocked (or may just not be effective enough when the engine's running without a load).
If you don't want to take it out for a proper run I'd do as Ruby Racing suggests… ten minutes idling/annoying the neighbours isn't going to get the oil up to temperature anyway.

[darrsi]

The thing about carb icing is that the engine wouldn't "falter a little bit", it would run like an absolute shitter.
Mine did when I had it when I first got the bike, and it always kicked in a mile away from my house, I even used to park the bike in the same spot to get through it.

You can eliminate this though by adding 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to the fuel tank, which will bind with any possible water in the tank and burn it off safely as fuel, but also lowering the freezing point of any moisture in the carbs, either from the air or fuel tank.
Because of where you live there is a greater chance of moisture in the tank due to humidity so it's certainly worth a go.

I use it a few times a year in my bike around winter time to remove any unwanted moisture, although as Fazerider pointed out the carb heater circuit pipes that are there to try and keep the carbs a bit warmer have very narrow channels and can get easily blocked up.

200-300ml per full tank is the right amount.

It's actually cheaper for 5 litres of IPA than it is for 1 litre of the fancy stuff you get in bike shops (Silkolene Pro FST), which never worked for my bike either, and the IPA won't ever go off as it's virtually pure alcohol so can be kept for use each winter time like I do.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-LITRE-PURE-9...SwPhdVR6F3

[Ruby Racing]

You can eliminate this though by adding 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to the fuel tank, which will bind with any possible water in the tank and burn it off safely as fuel, but also lowering the freezing point of any moisture in the carbs, either from the air or fuel tank.
Because of where you live there is a greater chance of moisture in the tank due to humidity so it's certainly worth a go.

I use it a few times a year in my bike around winter time to remove any unwanted moisture,

And with the Ethanol in fuel now, water is more easily absorbed into the fuel, adding to your carb icing woes and also increasing the risk to the inside of your steel fuel tank being attacked by rust. I've read that if leaving your bike unridden for over a month can cause issues with the fuel. In last months Decembers Practical Sportsbikes there is a "how to" on removing the Ethanol from your fuel if the bike is going to be parked up for a while. They use a kit made by a company called Ethanil. It's a really easy process.

[fazersharp]

[quote author=darrsi link=topic=19065.msg220781#msg220781 date=1452003685]

You can eliminate this though by adding 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to the fuel tank, which will bind with any possible water in the tank and burn it off safely as fuel, but also lowering the freezing point of any moisture in the carbs, either from the air or fuel tank.
Because of where you live there is a greater chance of moisture in the tank due to humidity so it's certainly worth a go.

I use it a few times a year in my bike around winter time to remove any unwanted moisture,

And with the Ethanol in fuel now, water is more easily absorbed into the fuel, adding to your carb icing woes and also increasing the risk to the inside of your steel fuel tank being attacked by rust. I've read that if leaving your bike unridden for over a month can cause issues with the fuel. In last months Decembers Practical Sportsbikes there is a "how to" on removing the Ethanol from your fuel if the bike is going to be parked up for a while. They use a kit made by a company called Ethanil. It's a really easy process.
[/quote]

Is that what we all seem to be experiencing when left unridden  for a few weeks--- water in the atmosphere being absorbed into the fuel, im thinking mainly in the fuel in the carbs and pipes because after a few mins the issues clear out.
It would also explain why even after long periods on no riding in the summer there doesn't seem to be an issue, (not as much moisture in the atmosphere )

[darrsi]

[quote author=Ruby Racing link=topic=19065.msg220782#msg220782 date=1452005301]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=19065.msg220781#msg220781 date=1452003685]

You can eliminate this though by adding 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to the fuel tank, which will bind with any possible water in the tank and burn it off safely as fuel, but also lowering the freezing point of any moisture in the carbs, either from the air or fuel tank.
Because of where you live there is a greater chance of moisture in the tank due to humidity so it's certainly worth a go.

I use it a few times a year in my bike around winter time to remove any unwanted moisture,

And with the Ethanol in fuel now, water is more easily absorbed into the fuel, adding to your carb icing woes and also increasing the risk to the inside of your steel fuel tank being attacked by rust. I've read that if leaving your bike unridden for over a month can cause issues with the fuel. In last months Decembers Practical Sportsbikes there is a "how to" on removing the Ethanol from your fuel if the bike is going to be parked up for a while. They use a kit made by a company called Ethanil. It's a really easy process.
[/quote]

Is that what we all seem to be experiencing when left unridden  for a few weeks--- water in the atmosphere being absorbed into the fuel, im thinking mainly in the fuel in the carbs and pipes because after a few mins the issues clear out.
It would also explain why even after long periods on no riding in the summer there doesn't seem to be an issue, (not as much moisture in the atmosphere )
[/quote]

There's never any moisture in your atmosphere.  :rollin

Your poor bike, all it wants to do is go out and play in the rain like all the other teenagers.  :lol

[fazersharp]

In 17 months time it will no longer be a teenager

[darrsi]

In 17 months time it will no longer be a teenager

Confused?
You have a '97 Fazer?

[fazersharp]

Ooops I missed out 12 months didnt I

[malcolmmcdonald]

Thanks everyone for the replies - I'm feeling pretty reassured now, and with a couple of ideas to work on.