Fazer 600 cut out problem

[Bexcy-bee]

Hi, I'm new to the site and looking for some advice, sorry if this is in the wrong place!

I bought my bike on Sunday, it travelled back 40 miles no probs at all, stopping off for fuel as well. I've only got an A2 licence, so restrictor was fitted on Tuesday and I took her out for a spin (about 40 mile round trip again). On Sunday when I got her home, I had a play, and it didn't start at all a few times, turned it off and on again a few times and it was fine, presumed a dodgy clutch switch so unplugged it and I was fine. Ok yesterday's ride, she cut out twice when first getting on and putting her in gear (after warming up) and then once half way through the ride when restarting after a short break.

Today, jump on her, completely fine, go to shops about 3 miles away, restarts fine and get most of the way home. Approaching a roundabout, and lose power suddenly, restarts fine in neutral, but stalls in first again, push her the rest of the way home as she just won't start now. Get home and she starts again in neutral but cuts out when putting in first, and now won't start at all!

My partner has looked at the clutch and side stand, and cut them out of the circuit (sorry, I'm not sure what it's all called, but he's an engineer and used some fancy gadgets on it to check for power or something) so fairly happy it's not the side stand switch or clutch.

Before I spend a load of money that I don't have, does anyone have any ideas on what else to try? The only other things that we've done to her is change the broken clutch lever and taken off the heated hand grip module as it's broken to see if we can fix it...

Thanks in advance, and sorry for the mega post!

Bexcy-bee

[unfazed]

Hi, welcome to the forum. What year Fazer do you have? Any pictures?


They may not have reconnected the fuel pump wires properly after fitting the restrictors or there may  be corrosion of contacts which may effect the connection after being disturbed.
The first picture shows the coil wires and the green connector is for the fuel gauge. To the right of the green connector are the wires for the pump. The connector is difficult to see, but is under the coil connector.

The second picture shows a black box and there are numerous connectors in it and it would do no harm to check them all for corrosion and spray a bit of contact cleaner or WD40 on them

To lift the tank, remove the seat and remove the bolt on the front of the tank (8mm head on the bolt)

The tank will pivot on the allen bolt under the seat at the rear of the tank.
If it does not pivot easily loosen the allen bolt slightly, do not remove it.

Prop it with a piece of wood and work away.

[slimwilly]

Hi !  [size=78%]Check the sidestand switch too, [/size][/size][size=78%]ts [/size]

[Bexcy-bee]

Thanks for the reply, I have shown him this and he has wiggled and cleaned all the wires and connectors from burg pics.

The only pictures I have at the mo are:







Hopefully they work! She's 1999

Thanks

Bexcy-bee

[unfazed]

Not bad condition for a 99, engine looks exceptionally clean, but your are going to need replacement downpipes in the not so distance future 

If it is corrosion which is causing the problem Wiggling them as you put it will not resolve it, it is best to take the connectors apart to check and treat them, otherwise the problem will return  :eek

[Bexcy-bee]

Not bad condition for a 99, engine looks exceptionally clean, but your are going to need replacement downpipes in the not so distance future 

If it is corrosion which is causing the problem Wiggling them as you put it will not resolve it, it is best to take the connectors apart to check and treat them, otherwise the problem will return  :eek

Down pipes are the next thing were doing, just looking out for some reasonably priced stainless steel ones!

Ok, I'll get him to try that when he's home, thanks

Bexcy-bee

[Dead Eye]

Definitely sounds like an electrical issue... my first thoughts were the clutch switch and the side stand switch, but it sounds like you've tested those already

When you say the bike doesn't start - does it turn over?

Oh idea! Have you checked the kill switch?

[BBROWN1664]

If it cuts out immediately when you put it in gear it is related to the side stand switch. The system is designed to stop you riding off with the stand down.
If it wont start in gear (with the side stand up) it is the clutch switch to look at.
If it wont turn over at all, check the kill switch.

If it loses power and dies then wont restart straight away (but turns over), try opening the fuel tank. If you get a hiss, check the breather pipes are not kinked under the tank. Another option could be carb icing so check the carb heaters.

[darrsi]

If it cuts out immediately when you put it in gear it is related to the side stand switch. The system is designed to stop you riding off with the stand down.
If it wont start in gear (with the side stand up) it is the clutch switch to look at.
If it wont turn over at all, check the kill switch.

If it loses power and dies then wont restart straight away (but turns over), try opening the fuel tank. If you get a hiss, check the breather pipes are not kinked under the tank. Another option could be carb icing so check the carb heaters.

Too warm for carb icing, and it would run and sound like a tractor as well, i have fond memories of this in times gone by.


On a similar note though, could it be symptoms of water in the carbs?

[BBROWN1664]

Too warm for carb icing

Damp cold mornings recently and this bike is restricted meaning it is a possibility still but unlikely given the symptoms described.

[Oldgit]

could be the coil is on its way oot.

[greenman]

I've had similar issues at different times caused by different faults and did the same as you describe less than 150 miles after purchase, a few years ago now which turned out to be a combination of blown head gasket, blocked fuel filter, dirty carbs and failing spark plugs. The next time it did it again and stopped when put in gear, turned out to be water in the tank filing the carbs with water, it would start, just enough fuel floating on the water in the float bowls to tick over, putting it in gear must have moved bike enough to disturb what's in float bowls and sucking water in to the engine. The next time I traced fault back to plug caps, replaced them a year ago and it's run sweat since then. Mine is a 99 with 49000 on the clock.
I don't know if this will help but it may suggest some different areas to look at.
Good luck fixing yours.

[BBROWN1664]

Did you fix it Bex?

[Bexcy-bee]

Did you fix it Bex?

We didn't no

We gave up and took it to a garage, and they took 3 hours to find the problem!

The bike has LED indicators, and to stop them flashing really quickly, they kept the old ones on, but under the seat. Apparently, there is a wire under there that is to do with the built in factory fitted yamaha alarm or something, and probably is having moved the indicators and put them back, the wire was put under pressure and broke, which cut off everything like fuel etc. so effectively worked as an immobiliser. So £200 for a 3 minute job, which would have cost us about 30p lol.

But she's back and running again, sweet as a nut! Picked her up this morning and took her out, amazing!!

Garage said its a really tidy bike aswell, just the rusty down pipes, so all in all very chuffed!

Bexcy-bee x

[BBROWN1664]

:thumbup