Since a bout a month my FSZ600 (2000) has started acting up with 'hiccups' It started off with hiccups when accelerating. My dealership overhauled the carburator, put in new spark plugs, changed petrol filter etc. It was gone now when accelerating but it started to show the same problems at constant speed (below 80km/h). It then started combusting in the exhaust from time to time when waiting at a traffic light. I empied the tank for possible water due to leaking seals, emptied the carburator bottom parts so any water was removed and the problem was almost gone. However, after a few days it came back again, same problems but this time when accelerating and at constant speed. I saw a little wear in the the left most inlet from carburator to cylinder (see image) and have fixed that one. Still same problems though...
Does anyone have a clue what might be going on or whether this is a common problem?
Just came back from '2nd opinion' at a different dealer. They say it must be the carburator as (of course they can't say too much without opening it up) the exhaust are having different output temperatures when checked with an external laser heat indicator. Also, the problem doesn't always happen (about 80% of the time). It can happen now, and be ok again this afternoon for it to come back after a while and the circle is round again :'(
Basically you just want to quickly test that the TPS is okay, and also if it's in the correct position.
Turn ignition key on (no need to start the engine)
Unplug the TPS, which is the black thing on the right side of your carbs. I normally use a key to help with the catch.
The rev counter will then display a code to say that it's either unplugged or not working. It will go from 0rpm to 3000rpm (3000rpm is a faulty code) Then simply plug it back in and see what code it gives next.
5000rpm is good, and where you want it to be. 0rpm or 10,000rpm means it needs adjusting, which involves undoing the 2 screws with a T25 tamper proof torx driver, and literally twisting the TPS sideways until you see the needle land in the 5000rpm position. 4000rpm means a dodgy speed sensor, but this won't apply to you. And if it goes to 3000rpm then your TPS is likely to be knackered.
My bike definitely misbehaved before i changed my TPS so it's worth a quick check.
If you need to adjust the TPS then the bike must be at operating temperature, and the tickover speed should be around the 1200-1300rpm mark.
If it hits 10,000rpm turn the engine on until you are ready to adjust it to put the needle back towards the left side, otherwise it's front fairing shield off, then remove clocks and take it all apart to move the needle back which would've dropped down the wrong side of the 0mph pin. It's not difficult or anything, it's just time consuming and avoidable.
I haven't had time yet to do the TPS check as suggested but thought I'd give you an update. It seems like the jittering only happens below 4000 revs, either when riding at a constant speed or when accelerating. On the motorway there are no problems and if I need to overtake and go down 1 or 2 gears (and thus the revs go above 4K) it runs very well. Also, after having been on the motorway for a while the problem seems to be gone for a while in urban traffic. Is that helpful additional info?
Still do the TPS check, but "jittery" under 4000rpm (normally 3000) could possibly be out of sync carbs.
Had mine synced in a shop before, then did them myself and they were well out in comparison to when i'd finished!
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Update: brought bike back to the mechanic. Turns out I got some leaking valves. Being repaired as we speak. Hope this will sort out the problem once and for all...
