Ok the problem is back, so realy onl went away for a day or so riding.
did it a couple of times yesterday but not for long and then today its been a real pain in the ass and 1 more added part to it.
While i was out riding i was doing around 60 and starting to line up an overtake when it just compleatly died on me. clutch in (thought it was something serious lol) and coasted to a halt. tried to start and just turned over.
ignition off and on a few times, each time trying to start and again just turning over. try it one more and it fired up with a very loud back fire (new boxers please) and ran as allways perfectly.
went to my local spanner and told him. problem is because its intermitent its a bitch to trace. i was lucky and when i tried to start it in front of him it didnt start.
He confirms as i said, there is deff no spark. turn it on and off a few times and it may or may not start. there seems to be no rhyme or reason.
Without me spending a small fourtune for him to have it in he threw two ideas my way that are mew ideas.
1 i had been thinking off ... the data tool imobaliser.... and the other is ignition pick up problem.
now he hasnt heard of one playing up on a fazer but has seen it on other bikes and it normaly shows up when the bike is warm. so it could be that.
problem is finding out just which problem it is.
Now i have a data tool imobiliser on the bike. it was on it when i got it at 3k miles and has never given any trouble. i dont know if it was factory fitted or not. the wires are hidden behind the rear panel so its hard to see but he says "some" yams have a plug and play type alarm plug, and you can buy a bridge plug from yam to unplug the data tool and plug in the bridge plug. anyone know about the data tool thing? its like a little tab fob that i touch on to the pad on the bike.
might get round to removing the rear end and looking for it to see but would save me time if someone happened to know.
![[Image: 82304.png]](http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-uk/82304.png)
I may be getting Datatool and Meta mixed up as I cannot remember which bike had which, but one or the other relates to a Datatool alarm :o ...
on my Triumph the 'bridge plug' has to be returned to the manufacturer of the alarm to prove installation. The manufaturer then destroys the plug (for safety). Triumph don't make more plugs than bikes (for safety). On ringing around, one Datatool installer said he could manufacture a bridge plug from the alarm plug, but this was not needed in the end.
Alternatively, on my 02 Fazer there was no plug and play facility and the alarm was wired in by cutting into wires. Don't know when Mr Yam put a plug and play facility on the Fazer for alarms, but I guess after 2002.
Most half decent mechanics can (or claim to) be able to remove alarms. Think it cost £25 to get the one off my Fazer [and it any theiving scroat is reading - before relacing it with a full singing and dancing, top of the range, super duper alarm - honest!]
I would blame the alarm/imobiliser, but then I'd blame them for anything wrong with the bike.
Well the mech i spoke to wasnt sure if the fazer had a plug n play, just that some yams did. affter striping the back plastics and rack etc off i can say .... it has not got plug and play lol (2004). the damn thing is wired in via black wires and spread all over the frecking place to.
as much as i hate alarms and imobalisers this one has been problem free untill now. and to be honest i am not convinced at all its the problem now either.
As a side note and "maybe" related but doubt it, the fan fuse had blown. i did think to myself last week i had not heard the fan cut in when the bike is warming up on the stand. this is why lol
If i was a betting man i would put it down to the immobiliser. Had a crappy datatool on a zzr that did exactly the same thing. I also had an sv 650 that had the datatool disconnected because it had starting problems. Fazer's 2003 on.. have a plug to attach meta/datatool alarms. My mate wired a meta 357t to mine direct into the harness (More secure!) when i bought it new. Its now 7 years old and i'm wishing he had just plugged it in, so that if it packs in i could remove it. 
If it's broken, it's not fixed.
Had a thought when out just now, if its a short stop (most problems but not all seem to happen on short stops) i tend to place bike on side stand, if its a long stop i tend to use main stand.
I did think it might be side stand switch playing up but dose it have to be in gear for that? hmm random thought is all lol
To eliminate the sidestand switch simply unplug and bridge the connectors. 
If it's broken, it's not fixed.
Have you given the ignition switch a good dousing of electrical contact cleaner? :rolleyes Have you pulled out all the fuses in case they have corroded inside the fuse holder? The main block connector underneath the left hand fairing infill is prone to corroding and is worth checking. If all this is checked and sorted i would go back to checking the immobiliser. Good Luck!
If it's broken, it's not fixed.
Ignition switch and kill switch were first port of call. pulled fuses today and found the fan fuse was blown. rest are all in good condition.
havent touched the block under the infill. will get round to that tomorrow.
Also ran an ohms test on the ignition pick up and it cam back within spec. might retest tomorrow though as after reading the manual it says to test at 50 deg temp. and i tested at engine cold.
the problem with intermitent fault is i might test something and it test fine, but later its faulty. i realy hate electrics its the one thing i have never been able to get on top of
bridge the side stand switch and try that but i personally think its the same as i had.
Exact same probs n i mean exactly, took the meta off and now no probs, i do have the pin out diagram if you need it to disconnect the meta altogether.
"Dont confuse my personality with my attitude My personality is who I am. My attitude depends on who you are..."
Ok Found the source of the problem. It is indeed the ignition switch. although i used contact cleaner on it a couple of days ago (and again today to be safe) it had no effect on it. but it you wiggle the key slightly or even push it slightly to 1 side the engine cuts out and it wont start (turns over but no start)
i also now found out that the key will in fact just pull free of the lock lol
Now a lock set on ebay is about £80-90 but my local guy happens to have a R1 ignition lock somewhere (he is going to try to find it later) anyone know if it fits? we tried to find a pattern one in his book and it has the R1 and both Fazer 600's but no listing for the 1000 /sigh
not sure it will as when you do the R1 front fork mod you have to have the fazer barrel into to R1 yoke, but that could be just because you already have those keys lol
"Dont confuse my personality with my attitude My personality is who I am. My attitude depends on who you are..."
Nice one Glad you found the problem.
If it's broken, it's not fixed.
finding it and fixing it are worlds apart lol
tried useing my spare key tonight, as its brand new and not been used but even that pulls stright out of the barrel so the barrel seems compleatly shagged. i had hopped it was just corrosion and a worn key but the barrel just feels like a bag of nails
those that have done the R1 fork mod, how easy is it to remove the barrel? was told today it might be breakaway bolts or something holding it in. do i need to strip off the front to get clear accses?
manual isnt realy very clear.
Nightmare trying to source the new lockset or a new barrel.
Seems they dont do a pattern part.
OE is £193.28 +vat for the set or £144.14 +vat for the ignition on its own.
the only one on ebay is a 2002 model that has 7 wires (2+5) and the 2004 model has 5 wires (2 + 3) grrr why the hell they changed it i have no idea. might be todo with loseing the main beam switch?
time to start calling round breakers as the FZS 600 route seems like a dead end (has 2+4 wires) and the R1 i have been told has diff wire block set up to.
If you do find a suitable solution, can you let me know.
Like you, my key can be removed with the ignition on and, only once or twice, the bike has had a fit whilst I was going along, wiggling the key sorted it.
I rang around but, although you can get a pattern ignition lock for most Yams for £45ish, I could not find one for the Fazer at all. At the moment, the problem is not worth £150 .
I was told that the ignition switch changed when they hard wired the light on (2004 ish) so you will need to get the right one depending on if you have a switch to turn your lights off or not.
One set for the older bikes on Ebay at the moment http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-FZS1000-FZS-1000-FAZER-5LV-2002-COMPLETE-LOCKSET-LOCK-SET-/200715502478?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2ebb93838e but I'm not sure why he has not removed the ignition barrel!
yup seen that one on ebay, its the 7 wire one. he didnt remove it from the yoke as it has snap off bolts fitted. he thinks its easyer to just swap the top yoke over rather than remove the bolts.
I rang around a bunch of breakers and finaly managed to get a lock set for £85 delivered. Little more than i wanted to pay but it needs to be done asap and they can have it here for friday morning (we shall see)
ment to be going to london and then kent for a long weekend starting friday so doubt i will have time to fit it.
pain in the ass they changed from 7 to 5 as there seems to be a fair few 2001-2002 ones around but very few 2004 ones at breakers. and some breakers will argue black is white that the 7 will fit the 5. i dont see how as the sockets are totaly diff so unless you cut them off..... looking at the haynes wire diag it can prob be bodged on with cutting the plugs off
New ignition fitted, new filler cap on. pain in the ass i didnt get a seat lock to though.
But all problems now magicly working lol still find it freaky how it looked like so many other things first.
MOT done today and apart from rear pads (which i half expected) it flew through yay!
|
