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Help! Got a few issues with my fazer!
#1
  Hi all,

I just got my fazer back on the road after about 5 years and I’m having a few problems. First major problem is monumental clutch slip. Initially when I got the bike back on the road, the clutch was fine, but it seems to be pretty bad now. Tried all the things on the clutch slip thread, i.e. making sure there's no gunk behind the front sprocket cover. Taken out the clutch push rod and autosol'd it, so it can move freely (however when returning the push rod into the engine, it feels a bit 'notchy'/ like there's a bit of resistance there). Normal?? Adjusted the clutch free play on the lever, as per the manual to give it 25mm free play, which seems to have made it worse.

Thought it might have been the oil (oil with friction reducing agents), so dropped the oil and put fresh oil in with wurth wet clutch engine flush, suitable for bikes. Then put Halfords 10/40 bike oil back in, all to no avail...last thing to do I’m guessing is adjust the clutch on the engine side. Silly question, but is the adjuster screw and locking nut found behind the front sprocket? Or is it the other side, near the clutch basket etc?? Maybe it’s the case that the clutch plates/springs need changing. Slip seems to get better when the bike is warm

Problem number 2 - carbs!

Took the carbs off, cleaned out the bowls and ultrasonically cleaned all the jets at work. Didn’t take the mixture screws out. Should that have been done?? Put everything back together and had massive over fuelling from carb 1 and 2 (2 left carbs), so gave the bike to a bike mechanic, who sorted that issue and he also balanced the carbs (he said), but idling still doesn’t seem to stable. Engine tends to bog down when pulling away and when shutting off throttle at a junction for instance, the engine takes time to return to idle. At idle it tends to rev on its own sometimes. Also when starting the bike with choke, full choke makes the engine sit at around 4-5000rpm, and I have to fettle the choke to get it to sit at around 3000rpm. Is 4-5000rpm a normal engine speed with the choke on? Pretty sure I’ve got the choke and throttle cable round the right way...reset the TPS also, which I think improved things a bit. Plugs were changed just before I took the bike off the road a few years ago, do they degrade even with little or no use over time? Lastly, the inlet rubbers have a few minor cracks, but nothing going all the way through. However if the engine is pulling unmetered air in through the inlets, it might contribute to rough running. I don’t fancy paying 75 quid for a new set, so maybe a repair with araldite. Any ideas would be greatly received or if there’s any fazer riders on the isle of wight, please give me a shout. 
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#2
The clutch adjuster at the engine end is behind the rubber bung on the outside of the sprocket cover. Quite possible that is the cause of the slipping clutch. There has to be a slight amount of free play there. Details of how to adjust it are on this site somewhere, may be in "Hot Poop".
The clutch push rod goes through an oil seal so a slight resistance is normal but should not be notchy but may feel a bit like that if it is dry. Try some oil on it.
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#3
Just checked. Along the top of the page click on  "Hot Poop" > "Engine" > "Clutch adjustment", and there you will find a rather splendid detailed description of where and how to do it.
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#4
All sorted on the clutch front, not slipping at all now! Cheers for pointing me in the right direction. The hot poop section is very informative to say the least! Found that my throttle position sensor was a bit out and have adjusted it again. Also got some new plugs and ordered some new plug caps today. Bike seems to be running a lot better, but still tempted to repair/renew my inlet rubbers and get the carbs balanced again. Thanks for all your help 
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#5
Good to hear things are going your way  :thumbup . I wouldn't worry too much about the inlet rubbers, they have to be pretty bad before they are drawing in air. Look at any Fayer and there is a good chance there will be minor cracks in the outer surface of the inlet rubbers. Balancing the carbs again after readjusting the TPS and new plugs sounds a good idea.
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