Nuts, chains and sprockets.

[darrsi]

Right then, the nut and tab-washer are fitted.....although, i took it to 70Nm and the torque wrench was clicking away.
The tab-washer and the sprocket were still very loose, so i took it to 90Nm and again, clickety click and the washer etc, were still rather loose.
So i thought sod it, keep going until the washer and sprocket were waggle free, which i did and folded the tab over and put everything back together again.
I'm assuming that the sprocket isn't supposed to be loose?, i'm thinking that the reason the torque wrench was clicking, was because the nut was threading the slightly damaged shaft and it was reaching the specified Nm due to this?
Oh well, time will tell i expect, i put threadlock on the shaft, it's got new chain and sprockets fitted, plus of course the new nut and washer, we'll see how things go.
It's gonna be a nervous ride, the next time i take her out.

G ; )

Still loose at 90Nm ?
Oooerr...... 

[freeware]

I've done my 'chain/sprocket/12mm nut' over 2 weeks ago.
- Torqued at 80 Nm.
- No thread lock but copper grease.
- No play on the sprocket.

Done about 400 miles since then and it seems fine so far. Also replaced the gasket.

Nut/washer from Yam dealer for 2.44, and gasket for 3.66 delivered within two days.

[Hedgetrimmer]

Ok, I gotta say it - you're o/p shaft thread doesn't look good to me in the photo BlueprintZ...

[darrsi]

Gotta agree with you Nick, and also a tad worrying the nut had to be done up so tightly as well.


@freeware, i'm a big fan of copper grease, i use it a lot on my bike, but i'm surprised you used it on the front sprocket nut, i think i would rather prefer it seized on!

[Hedgetrimmer]

If it were me, my first port of call would be to a good engineer to see if it could be built up with some kind of weld or something, then recut the thread, preferably with everything in situ. Maybe there's someone on this forum who could answer whether or not that's possible.

[freeware]

Darrsi, I didn't want the nut to be siezed when it comes to sprocket fitting next time but I may be wrong... I'll check at near future if everything's right (tight) under the cover.

[darrsi]

Darrsi, I didn't want the nut to be siezed when it comes to sprocket fitting next time but I may be wrong... I'll check at near future if everything's right (tight) under the cover.

It's 6 of one, half a dozen of the other mate.
It's a scenario that we shouldn't really have to be thinking about at all, but unfortunately we have to take things seriously because of what's happened to other peoples bikes in the past.
It looks nice and shiny though 

[BluprintZ]

I agree the O/S thread looks bad but as i mentioned in my last post, i recon the fact that the torque wrench was clicking at 90 Nm, was probably because the new nut was cutting a thread into the shaft.
I do have access to a very good engineer/welder, although whether to go arc or mig, i will have to discuss with him.
To be honest, now that i have a new chain, sprockets and the 12mm nut on, i'm inclined to let him wend the nut on, as i few on here have done...i think?
I should get a few years out of the bike if i look after the chain but to say i'm rather gutted, is an understatement, i really was happy with the bike, until this shambles unfolded.
It's probably too late to go shouting at Yamaha for a new shaft to be fitted, although i might do, just to see if they will honour the fact that they have messed up with this issus.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

G ; (

[darrsi]

I agree the O/S thread looks bad but as i mentioned in my last post, i recon the fact that the torque wrench was clicking at 90 Nm, was probably because the new nut was cutting a thread into the shaft.
I do have access to a very good engineer/welder, although whether to go arc or mig, i will have to discuss with him.
To be honest, now that i have a new chain, sprockets and the 12mm nut on, i'm inclined to let him wend the nut on, as i few on here have done...i think?
I should get a few years out of the bike if i look after the chain but to say i'm rather gutted, is an understatement, i really was happy with the bike, until this shambles unfolded.
It's probably too late to go shouting at Yamaha for a new shaft to be fitted, although i might do, just to see if they will honour the fact that they have messed up with this issus.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

G ; (

Worth a try at the very least!


When you speak to Yamaha show them the service note number: SERVICE NOTE 2005-12A


"....Any FZS600 Fazers model (1998-2003), regardless of whether it still in warranty or has been serviced officially in the Dealer channel can be inspected at any official Dealer.  Remove the existing nut and washer. Measure the drive shaft OD of the threaded part (micrometer or vernier caliper). If >= 17.5 mm - clean threads and fit a new washer & nut with threadlock. If < 17.5 mm - the drive shaft must be replaced. (This work could take between 1 day to 2 weeks depending on dealer workload)...."

[lds1973]

I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.

[darrsi]

I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.

He's already said it didn't feel tight at 90Nm.

[Hedgetrimmer]

I agree the O/S thread looks bad but as i mentioned in my last post, i recon the fact that the torque wrench was clicking at 90 Nm, was probably because the new nut was cutting a thread into the shaft.
I do have access to a very good engineer/welder, although whether to go arc or mig, i will have to discuss with him.
To be honest, now that i have a new chain, sprockets and the 12mm nut on, i'm inclined to let him wend the nut on, as i few on here have done...i think?
I should get a few years out of the bike if i look after the chain but to say i'm rather gutted, is an understatement, i really was happy with the bike, until this shambles unfolded.
It's probably too late to go shouting at Yamaha for a new shaft to be fitted, although i might do, just to see if they will honour the fact that they have messed up with this issus.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

G ; (

Worth a try at the very least!


When you speak to Yamaha show them the service note number: SERVICE NOTE 2005-12A


"....Any FZS600 Fazers model (1998-2003), regardless of whether it still in warranty or has been serviced officially in the Dealer channel can be inspected at any official Dealer.  Remove the existing nut and washer. Measure the drive shaft OD of the threaded part (micrometer or vernier caliper). If >= 17.5 mm - clean threads and fit a new washer & nut with threadlock. If < 17.5 mm - the drive shaft must be replaced. (This work could take between 1 day to 2 weeks depending on dealer workload)...."

Has to be best first option - a new o/p shaft fitted for free? You couldn't turn that down if they'll do it.
2nd option, I'd look at the weld and recut solution - hopefully it could solve the issue on a permanent basis, whereas welding on the sprocket nut maybe will just cause headaches later.

[lds1973]

I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.

He's already said it didn't feel tight at 90Nm.

Exactly. Something isn't right hence the need to inspect and clean. I wouldn't be riding around on possible cross threaded/ damaged thread etc etc. Would you?

[darrsi]

I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.

He's already said it didn't feel tight at 90Nm.

Exactly. Something isn't right hence the need to inspect and clean. I wouldn't be riding around on possible cross threaded/ damaged thread etc etc. Would you?

Judging by the photo', the shaft thread looks more than ropey to me anyway.

[lds1973]

I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.

He's already said it didn't feel tight at 90Nm.

Exactly. Something isn't right hence the need to inspect and clean. I wouldn't be riding around on possible cross threaded/ damaged thread etc etc. Would you?

Judging by the photo', the shaft thread looks more than ropey to me anyway.

Its not worth chancing it at all.

Further work required.

[BluprintZ]

I suppose i'll contact Yamaha and see what sort of a response i get from them.
The thing that worries me at the mo', is that i've already tried to fix the problem, by buying and fitting the new 12mm nut, knowing that the O/S is damaged.
Yamaha could well say that i should have left it alone, once i removed the old nut and saw the damaged shaft, then contacted them about the freebie repair!
Anyway, i'll give them a shout and see what happens.

Thanks guys.

G ; )

[lds1973]

If your happy its tight and fitting flush then you could always get a couple of tack welds on the nut to the shaft to make sure. At the end of the day you wanna be riding don't ya, if you don't get no joy with yamaha then at least you can be back on the road. Just inspect it every now and then.

I'm a big believer in not spending much on bikes and repairs as I'd rather spend my money on petrol and riding.

[His Dudeness]

The shaft looks quite shiney in the pic so I'd guess the nut mangled the threads as it was coming off. Was the nut quite stiff as it was coming off? I'd did mine recently and I was bricking it taking the nut off. It's definitely the weak point of the fazer.

[unfazed]

This is what I did to solve my problem http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=43 and here http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,4546.0.html to see what I had to do to get Yamaha to assist me in repairing the problem.
I now have everthing (gaskets, seals, bearing and shaft) I require to strip the engine and replace the shaft supplied by Yamaha for half price on my bike which then had almost 72000 miles on it.
It now has 5500 miles since I repaired it my way with a circlip, washer and an allen bolt and it is still holding.

[JZS 600]

Wonder if you could re-thread the bugger and make it a bit cleaner to stick the nut on to with a load of locktite,,,

[unfazed]

to use an old Quote "Been there, done that, wore the T-shirt".
Nothing worked until I put a circlip outside the Nut then a washer and the allen bolt.
The shaft is case hardened and drilling and tapping the end was not to difficult once you took it slow and gently getting through the case hardening.
 

[freeware]

Gotta agree with you Nick, and also a tad worrying the nut had to be done up so tightly as well.


@freeware, i'm a big fan of copper grease, i use it a lot on my bike, but i'm surprised you used it on the front sprocket nut, i think i would rather prefer it seized on!

I couldn't fall asleep since then... Thanks!

[BluprintZ]

Update on my situation: Fitted new chain and sprockets, been for a few long, fast rides and the 12mm nut is still ok.
I've ordered a pair of new Bridgestone tyres and a set of carb - head inlet rubbers, then it's off to the dyno man to have everything set up properly.
I'll post the results of the dyno test when i get them.

G ; )

[fazersharp]

bump

[Doddsie]

A lot of people seem to be asking `should I do this` and ` how do I` etc, Is there a step by step thread on here anywhere that people can follow if they want to change the sprocket nut?