Chain Replacement?

[Jezzer]

So I think I will have to replace the chain soon, not due to stiff links or anything rather rust. 


Bit of history!
2002 with 6k miles, of which I have done 2.5k in the last 12 months.  Original chain / sprockets still fitted, did have chain surface rust when I got the bike last Feb, most of which I could scrub off.  Scott-oiler fitted and the bike is garaged normally.


I can and do clean / oil the chain up regularly (as well as the oiler) however, every time I go out in anything that is slightly damp or more, the chain just about instantly rusts.  The chain tensioner is about half way and no other issues that I can find with it, other than I almost sure I will have to change the front sprocket nut from the 9mm as well. 


What do you think, keep or replace and if replace, any recommendations for a set?

[Jamieg285]

If it's anything like mine, the rust is limited to the outer plates.  The important bits on the inner sides protected by the oil.


If it was me, I'd check to see how much it has stretched. Mine is only half way back on the adjustment marks, but when measured was way over-spec, and is going to be replaced imminently.


I've gone for a DID super heavy duty, based on recommendations.  Super heavy may be overkill, but I commute daily and wanted as bullet-proof as I could get.

[darrsi]

D.I.D. X Ring heavy duty kit, tried and tested 

[red98]

  ...

[Punkstig]

Plus +1 here for the heavy duty, in my experience the extra heavy duty does the same miles as the 'standard' upgrade kit and isn't worth the extra £'s

[darrsi]

One thing i've often wondered, do the chain guides actually wear out?

[richfzs]

It's a service item on my tiger, have never seen it mentioned for the fazer though. Makes sense it should be though, takes quite a hammering!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[Punkstig]

Yes, needed changing on my mk1 by the time I was at 120,000, but by that time it had so many problems I just got rid of it!

[darrsi]

The reason i asked was because of the buzzing caused by my heavy duty chain, it must be wearing it out somewhere.
Does it give you a clue when it's had enough?

[Fazerider]

Strange. I'm currently on an OE chain and sprockets (with Scottoiler) and don't have noticeable rust on the chain now they've stopped salting the roads. You don't happen to be making frequent visits to the coast, do you?
Either way, I certainly wouldn't change it unless it was necessary… i.e. worn, damaged or with seized links or rollers.
A quick way to check for wear is simply to try pulling the chain away from the back of the rear sprocket, if you can move it 3mm or more then the chain is worn ("stretched") enough to be regarded as knackered.
As for the chain guide: mine is still serviceable after 150k.

[darrsi]

"....As for the chain guide: mine is still serviceable after 150k...."


Cool, i'm only on 40k, i won't get too concerned yet then 

[Punkstig]

The main noticeable thing when the chain guide wears is the chain links get a wicked flat spot obviously from metal rubbing against metal, they start looking more like B's instead of 8's!

[darrsi]

The main noticeable thing when the chain guide wears is the chain links get a wicked flat spot obviously from metal rubbing against metal, they start looking more like B's instead of 8's!

I've no doubt i will hear something before it gets to that stage with my dog-like hearing!! 

[Jezzer]

Thanks for the replies, I wonder if the rust has been from residual salt on the roads, the rear sprocket has a white tinge to it.  Will clean it all up and see how it goes over the next few weeks, would rather not replace it unless I have to!