HELP NEEDED

[Young rider]

went to take my exhaust off as they needed someone tlc and i manage to snap one of the bolts off.[/size]is there anyway or anyone who can help get it out?

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[Dead Eye]

Nasty, its one of the awkward ones as well... cylinder 2 is an absolute b!t*h compared to the others...

Best bet is a decent stud remover - with the radiator off (and maybe the forks + front wheel) you may be able to get to it. Otherwise its either engine out or head off...

I'd help out, as I had to do this myself earlier this year but I'm nowhere near you

[Young rider]

Nasty, its one of the awkward ones as well... cylinder 2 is an absolute b!t*h compared to the others...

Best bet is a decent stud remover - with the radiator off (and maybe the forks + front wheel) you may be able to get to it. Otherwise its either engine out or head off...

I'd help out, as I had to do this myself earlier this year but I'm nowhere near you

Do you think welding a nut too it and spraying wd40 on it, as the heat should be able to loosen it? 

[richfzs]

Not wd40, as it's not penetrating fluid. Use either plus gas, or one of the other proper penetrating products out there

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[Young rider]

I'm gonna buy the extraction tool tomorrow see if that moves it. Don't wanna cause more damage.

[Fazerider]

Heat is often useful, the aluminium expands more than steel and loosens its grip, but the heat from welding a nut on would be a bit extreme and risks cracking the casting. A hot air gun and penetrating fluid should help though.

[Dead Eye]

I'm gonna buy the extraction tool tomorrow see if that moves it. Don't wanna cause more damage.

In that case I would really recommend you get a set like this;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-4393-Impact-Stud-Extractor/dp/B001DYRDU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1366416058&sr=8-1&keywords=laser+stud+extractor

I bought a set of fixed size stud extractors that are supposed to tighten on to the stud as you turn them, but they were useless. The above set from Amazon is what I bought

You want something that has minimum range below 6mm. The stud is 6mm and the 3/8" one starts at 6mm so its hard for it get a very good tight grip but I found it very hard to find the 1/4" one on its own. On top of this, I used a impact driver to loosen the stud before using a socket wrench to finally get the studs out.

I got my Impact Driver from Halfords;

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_530655_langId_-1_categoryId_165572

[Young rider]

All fixed with a help of a stud extractor and a heat. Manage to enjoy some of the sun today 

[Chris]

Glad you got it sorted without having to take the engine/head out. 
 
Chris

[Young rider]

Glad you got it sorted without having to take the engine/head out. 
 
Chris

yes same here as that would off been a big job to doo!


also thanks to dead eye for your help and advice

[Dead Eye]

You're more than welcome Glad to hear you had good results - my studs were so bad that 7 snapped of which 2 of those snapped again but flush with the head.

The engine out isn't the hardest thing in the world, but it does take time. Got mine out in a day and reassembled in one more day - took me a month or so to do the gearbox swap on my cage :|

[packie]

Not wd40, as it's not penetrating fluid.

http://wd40.com/uses-tips/

WD-40 loosens and penetrates rusted or stuck bolts and plumbing joints

[richfzs]

well packie, I grant it's better than water. But if it was actually any fuckign good as a penetrating oil, I guess they wouldn't have to make a real penetrating oil, huh?

http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/penetrating-oil/

[Jimmygixxer]

WD40 sucks balls.
Last resort stuff

[simonm]

WD40 sucks balls.

I would have thought that would make it good ?