morgan carbtune

[popeye72]

woo hoo, morgan carbtune just arrived!!! recently bought fuel filter , plugs , air filter cleaning kit and BLUE engine casing bolt kit, not sure on the look yet but now rear caliper siezing so off the road until i can fix that and then balance the carbs. just thought i would share

[Dead Eye]

Got round to finally using mine the other day - it was sat under my Coffee Table since October...

Adjustment screws are pretty damn fiddly and I couldn't even reach the left hand one to sync cylinders 1+2 but thankfully they weren't far out from each other.

[red98]

i struggled untill i bought one of those head torches......look a bit silly but makes the job easier 

[packie]

Got round to finally using mine the other day - it was sat under my Coffee Table since October...

Adjustment screws are pretty damn fiddly and I couldn't even reach the left hand one to sync cylinders 1+2 but thankfully they weren't far out from each other.

Why couldn't you reach the 1+2 screw? Was it akward to get at or couldn't you just see it? Looking at the diagram in the manual, it looks to be positioned ok for access. Are you using the right tool?? For stuff like that you need the proper tools IMO. I bought a cheapie carb adjustment screwdriver for £10 and as Red98 said, a good headmount torch is invaluable to get light into those nooks and crannies while keeping your both hands free to work with. The head torch is one of my best buys actually because I sometimes do the odd quick adjustment at night outside my house when needed.

[Dead Eye]

Got round to finally using mine the other day - it was sat under my Coffee Table since October...

Adjustment screws are pretty damn fiddly and I couldn't even reach the left hand one to sync cylinders 1+2 but thankfully they weren't far out from each other.

Why couldn't you reach the 1+2 screw? Was it akward to get at or couldn't you just see it? Looking at the diagram in the manual, it looks to be positioned ok for access. Are you using the right tool?? For stuff like that you need the proper tools IMO. I bought a cheapie carb adjustment screwdriver for £10 and as Red98 said, a good headmount torch is invaluable to get light into those nooks and crannies while keeping your both hands free to work with. The head torch is one of my best buys actually because I sometimes do the odd quick adjustment at night outside my house when needed.

I could see it fine but I couldn't get the damned screwdriver near it as the coil packs were in the way. Even with dislodging the bar they are connected to and wiggling it around there just wasn't enough room. I have NGK leads on the bike which may well be a bit shorter than OEM so I couldn't move the bar back far enough

[packie]

Why couldn't you reach the 1+2 screw? Was it akward to get at or couldn't you just see it? Looking at the diagram in the manual, it looks to be positioned ok for access. Are you using the right tool?? For stuff like that you need the proper tools IMO. I bought a cheapie carb adjustment screwdriver for £10 and as Red98 said, a good headmount torch is invaluable to get light into those nooks and crannies while keeping your both hands free to work with. The head torch is one of my best buys actually because I sometimes do the odd quick adjustment at night outside my house when needed.


I could see it fine but I couldn't get the damned screwdriver near it as the coil packs were in the way. Even with dislodging the bar they are connected to and wiggling it around there just wasn't enough room. I have NGK leads on the bike which may well be a bit shorter than OEM so I couldn't move the bar back far enough



The NGKs must be the problem so. I did my carbs and fitted the K&N today and I had no problem reaching all the screws when I pull back the bar with OEM leads.


The K&N works a treat too.

[Dead Eye]

Yeah, it was just an access problem, if it had been a overly large problem I would have taken the coil packs off completely and mounted them somewhere out of the way. But as cylinder 1+2 were very close together it wasn't an issue thankfully. 3 was off somewhere by itself completely out of sync with the others and 4 was just a little above 1+2

The adjustment itself was easy thought getting the correct values was difficult. It would have required lowering the idle too much - the bike was already having issues with keeping itself from stalling when warmed and stopped at lights etc. Increasing the idle, only by about 100-200 rpm was enough to prevent this but obviously pushes the carb values above the recommended...

[packie]

Yeah, it was just an access problem, if it had been a overly large problem I would have taken the coil packs off completely and mounted them somewhere out of the way. But as cylinder 1+2 were very close together it wasn't an issue thankfully. 3 was off somewhere by itself completely out of sync with the others and 4 was just a little above 1+2

The adjustment itself was easy thought getting the correct values was difficult. It would have required lowering the idle too much - the bike was already having issues with keeping itself from stalling when warmed and stopped at lights etc. Increasing the idle, only by about 100-200 rpm was enough to prevent this but obviously pushes the carb values above the recommended...

Ya...similar type problems here. Just got things the best I could. I guess after ten years, there is going to be wear and tear plus little bits of shite in the carbs ect ect that will make getting things spot on an impossibility.

In fairness, my lad runs well on tickover and on the go. If I had a gripe, at times there is like this hesitation or the feel of a lack of thrust at around 1,500 rpm when negotiating at slow speed in traffic. It is more noticable in 2nd gear but you can still get it in 1st but not so pronounced as you probably are getting out of the range more quickly. Probably carbs need a clean but i'm not going to go there unless I have some other serious issue. It's livable at the moment.