Author Topic: Exhaust Studs (Read 36360 times)

Dead Eye · « **Reply #125 on:** 27 February 2013, 07:21:42 pm »

Looks like you are having as much fun as I did when this all began... Thankfully that sort of drama wasn't required, the buggers just fell off so damn easily - the metal studs had obviously warped and the material had become useless

Tilts · « **Reply #126 on:** 27 February 2013, 07:35:47 pm »

studs seem ok, we just used the dremell to cut groves into manky nuts, plenty of gt85, old screwdriver and copper hammer, and tapped them loose, took all afternoon, but all nuts off, now we need to try and get the headers out of the head without damaging the head... going to take mine off and replace.with decent stainless nuts, before they start to corrode.

His Dudeness · « **Reply #127 on:** 27 February 2013, 11:13:50 pm »

anyone tried a nut splitter on the exhaust nuts? might save a bit of hassle

Andy Smith FZS · « **Reply #128 on:** 26 May 2013, 04:39:05 pm »

Nut splitter, bought one... Didnt use it. Wouldn't really be enough room to use it anyways.

Imperial sockets have a purpose after all... whacked one on with a hammer and it worked on a couple before I ruined the socket. (3 dodgy nuts)

Cutting a groove in the nut then tapping it round with a hammer and a screwdriver does the job if other attempts fail, just had to do this with one of the screws on my front brake res as I butchered the head on it.

Dave48 · « **Reply #129 on:** 26 May 2013, 09:20:35 pm »

Andy-had same prob with front master cylinder reservoir screws recently. I use small then progressively larger size drill bits to remove screw head then remove cover & get molegrips on shank of screw.

Never failed yet.

Mine had been overtightened & corroded in.

Andy Smith FZS · « **Reply #130 on:** 28 May 2013, 10:00:26 am »

Dave 48 - any idea what size of screw I'll need to replace it?

Had a trip to toolstation yesterday to buy some nuts for putting the new downpipes on, not sure if they would sell suitable screws.
Dont really want a pack of 1000 either!

Dave48 · « **Reply #131 on:** 28 May 2013, 10:36:27 am »

Andy- the Yamaha part no is 98707041200--cost from local dealer £1-12 for 2x They are fine thread and the screw heads are designed to fit flush with top cover.

elbrownos · « **Reply #132 on:** 01 June 2013, 04:01:27 pm »

I've got these for exhaust nuts
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Stainless+Range/Stainless+Steel+Connector+Nut+M6/d90/sd1030/p25755

And this for exhaust studs
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Stainless+Range/Stainless+Steel+Threaded+Bar+M6+x+1m/d90/sd1030/p65406

Gingernutz · « **Reply #133 on:** 08 June 2013, 12:39:08 pm »

Was just contemplating doing this job- replacing the down pipes myself- think I will let the garage do it having read this thread. As a mater of interest, if the engine has done 85k and you are removing it to get the studs out why not just get a replacement low mileage engine?

Dead Eye · « **Reply #134 on:** 08 June 2013, 09:37:35 pm »

Because a replacement low-mileage engine costs £250-350 and removing the studs cost me £40 :P

Besides, I have a second low-ish mileage (24k) engine that I am rebuilding at the moment which will go in once its done

yamy · « **Reply #135 on:** 09 June 2013, 11:52:10 am »

What size drill and what size easy out would i need
as the fourth one from the left as snapped off at the
engine head ?

Cheers lads

Dead Eye · « **Reply #136 on:** 09 June 2013, 07:08:34 pm »

As far as drill bits go, I would suggest nothing larger than 5mm - start small and work your way up if this is the route you want to take. Not sure on the easy outs as I haven't used them before - as noted at the beginning of this thread, I removed the engine and had a local machine shop remove the studs for me

yamy · « **Reply #137 on:** 09 June 2013, 08:03:55 pm »

Sure as hell can't make it any worse

His Dudeness · « **Reply #138 on:** 09 June 2013, 08:09:55 pm »

stay away from easy outs. if you snap one of them in the engine you'll never get it out

yamy · « **Reply #139 on:** 09 June 2013, 10:03:57 pm »

with that said I've decided to drill it out and re tap it out
and hope for the best

yamy · « **Reply #140 on:** 10 June 2013, 01:20:59 pm »

So far so good, drilled out with a 7mm now putting a 8mm
tap into it job done then.

Gingernutz · « **Reply #141 on:** 18 June 2013, 11:58:03 am »

Wish I had tried myself now - got a call from the youngest mechanic in the bike shop saying he had broken two studs at the engine casing and could he call an engineer. I could have bloody done that. This is going to get expensive $?/:%%&&¥

Deefer666 · « **Reply #142 on:** 19 June 2013, 07:25:29 am »

This thread makes me laugh, a lot. After working on FZSs for years its interesting to see other peoples solutions to the problem..... I have done this job so many times now

Buzz · « **Reply #143 on:** 19 June 2013, 03:05:22 pm »

Quote from: Deefer666 on 19 June 2013, 07:25:29 am

I have done this job so many times now

How much to swap mine if I bring 'em along?

Gingernutz · « **Reply #144 on:** 24 June 2013, 08:00:13 am »

The engineer cost me £160 for 4 hours work to remove the two studs - considering the cost an engne out job woukd have been I was happy with this

yamy · « **Reply #145 on:** 24 June 2013, 08:24:27 am »

To drill it out and tap it took me a hour , it done the job and still holding
fast