Author Topic: Exhaust Studs (Read 36392 times)

Exupnut · « **Reply #75 on:** 14 February 2013, 04:49:45 pm »

Quote from: red98 on 14 February 2013, 01:14:24 pm

had i not had the thou i think i would have sorted it by now ......do miss the 600 though......thinking the 6 is better than the thou

Definately more usesble but ouch!! That was a mortal blow

red98 · « **Reply #76 on:** 14 February 2013, 04:59:23 pm »

yeh i know,,,,,,,,sorry all you thou owners

red98 · « **Reply #77 on:** 19 February 2013, 06:46:11 am »

hi DEADEYE,how you getting on with the fazer

Dead Eye · « **Reply #78 on:** 19 February 2013, 10:10:42 am »

Still waiting on snail mail to actually show up... hopefully it will arrive today and then I may get a chance to tinker with it later on. Hell, if work is quiet I may even be able to go for a ride in the sun!

Dead Eye · « **Reply #79 on:** 20 February 2013, 01:46:20 pm »

Right, so the part FINALLY arrived today and I got everything re-assembled and now the clutch feels better from the handle BUT the engine won't start...

Turns over fine, but I reckon the battery is going to give up soon as its had to start the bike several times when it has been reluctant (especially after the engine was put back in to the frame). Is it possible to jump a motorcycle like you would with a car, using jump leads? My electrical knowledge is limited but to me a car battery seems like a stronger, higher capacity 12V source so... obviously I'd rather not blow up the battery though as that would probably reduce me to a blubbering wreck at that stage...

I do have a charger, BUT that's more time to waste if its actually something else. Checked the fuel tap just to be sure and its getting a spark. It coughs a little on the first attempt after leaving it for 5 mins but then just refuses.

Exupnut · « **Reply #80 on:** 20 February 2013, 02:07:07 pm »

U can jump it from a car no problem liam. Me an marina done it many times. If u have a problem gettin the clips on then put the nuetral lead on the FRAME. once u got it running go ride it for an hour cos it wont put any charge back in under 3k revs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Dead Eye · « **Reply #81 on:** 20 February 2013, 02:09:01 pm »

Precisely, it just getting the bugger to run haha

Deefer666 · « **Reply #82 on:** 20 February 2013, 02:15:38 pm »

Fuel on? HT leads on correctly, coils reconnected correctly

Dead Eye · « **Reply #83 on:** 20 February 2013, 02:40:27 pm »

Yep, yep and yep :P

I doubled checked the fuel tap and actually got the bike to start for all of 5 seconds before it died and then refused to start again about 10 minutes ago

red98 · « **Reply #84 on:** 20 February 2013, 02:41:27 pm »

yeh....jumping from a cars fine.....dont churn it over for long periods though

....and as exup says a good run after which iam sure your only too keen to do.........good luck and as always lets us know how you gat on

Chris · « **Reply #85 on:** 20 February 2013, 02:43:30 pm »

Certainly sounds like a fuelling issue. No kinks in pipes etc, i'm sure you've checked for that kind of thing though, good luck!

red98 · « **Reply #86 on:** 20 February 2013, 02:49:47 pm »

START YOU BASTARD ,START.......come on DEADEYE we`re all behind you

Dead Eye · « **Reply #87 on:** 20 February 2013, 03:03:14 pm »

It's been prodded, poked, kicked and slapped but the bastard still won't start. Tried hooking up my car battery (took leads off of the car) but no power is getting to the bike (bike battery removed). I think my jump leads are a load of crap...

Bike battery is thoroughly flat now so I'm trying to charge it carefully on my car charger (set at 2 Amps)... not the best option but so far the only one that's getting somewhere.

red98 · « **Reply #88 on:** 20 February 2013, 03:08:49 pm »

should charge ok with car charger...if its a trickle charge it might need to be on charge overnight

richfzs · « **Reply #89 on:** 20 February 2013, 03:16:06 pm »

Lots of car chargers put through too much current for a bike battery (which don't have the same capacity as a car one). You can fry a bike battery with a car charger, if you're not careful.
If it's a trickle charger, more chance of being ok...

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

Dead Eye · « **Reply #90 on:** 20 February 2013, 03:41:27 pm »

Precisely, this was my concern, but a little bit of research shows that a lot of motorcycle chargers charge at 2-4 Amps so my car charger at 2 Amps should be fine

It can go to 12 Amps which would definitely fry it :P

Ebme Geek · « **Reply #91 on:** 20 February 2013, 04:23:46 pm »

2 amp charge rate is absolutely fine.
Is your charger an intelligent one, ie it will automatically go into a float mode when it sees the battery as charged. Happy days.
If not, and you have a meter check the voltage across the terminals while it is charging and when it reaches 14.8v dont leave on charge for too long, you have done the bulk charge and got to about 90% of capacity

richfzs · « **Reply #92 on:** 20 February 2013, 05:11:39 pm »

Ah cool, if yours is manually switchable then jobs a good'un

Dead Eye · « **Reply #93 on:** 20 February 2013, 05:16:37 pm »

Yeah, its an intelligent charger and allows you to monitor the Voltage on the battery as its charging which is handy

So it got to about 90% in a couple of hours so armed with a charged battery I went out and the bike finally started! YAY!! .... yeah... too good to be true...

Now the fecking clutch will NOT disengage at all, no matter what I do... so, ideas?! I was adjusting the cable like crazy at the sprocket cover but no luck. The clutch is really giving me a headache now...

Dead Eye · « **Reply #94 on:** 21 February 2013, 12:55:23 pm »

Right, ~~quick~~ update, I THINK I may have it sorted. Theory so far is that when I bought the new clutch boss I also bought new clutch springs (EBC Heavy Duty) - this appears to have been a bad idea. The springs are just way too stiff to the point that you can't disengage the clutch because the pressure plate won't move. Almost thought I'd thrown out my old springs but thankfully I remembered I'd stuffed them in a drawer. So clutch has been back out again to check the plates again and the springs have now been replaced back to the ones from my burnt out bike which seemed in far better condition than those that came out of the new blue bike.

But once again, my bike is playing the typical game of not wanting to start... I'm hoping its just the cold and that it's been sat still. If not then there is something else I have to try and fix

red98 · « **Reply #95 on:** 21 February 2013, 01:23:01 pm »

Quote from: Dead Eye on 21 February 2013, 12:55:23 pm

Right, ~~quick~~ update, I THINK I may have it sorted. Theory so far is that when I bought the new clutch boss I also bought new clutch springs (EBC Heavy Duty) - this appears to have been a bad idea. The springs are just way too stiff to the point that you can't disengage the clutch because the pressure plate won't move. Almost thought I'd thrown out my old springs but thankfully I remembered I'd stuffed them in a drawer. So clutch has been back out again to check the plates again and the springs have now been replaced back to the ones from my burnt out bike which seemed in far better condition than those that came out of the new blue bike.

But once again, my bike is playing the typical game of not wanting to start... I'm hoping its just the cold and that it's been sat still. If not then there is something else I have to try and fix

keep going DEADEYE....is the battery back on charge now ?

Dead Eye · « **Reply #96 on:** 21 February 2013, 01:26:12 pm »

Nope, just giving it a rest to try again - battery isn't flat... yet :P

Mark YPVS · « **Reply #97 on:** 21 February 2013, 04:58:50 pm »

Hi,
Try draining the carbs as you may have stale fuel in there.
Mark

Dead Eye · « **Reply #98 on:** 21 February 2013, 05:05:03 pm »

The carbs have been out and back in only about a week ago after a full clean and then they were synchronised afterwards so I'd be surprised if the fuel went off that quick. The fuel in the tank is only about a month old as well.

In any case, I got the bugger fired up at long last and went out for about an hour and a half. Got it booked in locally to have someone fiddle with the rear tyre and change the front discs

However another new problem has surfaced. I'm getting quite a strong knock from the front sprocket area by the seems of things. It's too damn cold to go back out and deal with it at the moment, so that's a job for tomorrow most likely. Does the sprocket have to go on a certain way? I assumed it didn't make any difference but...

red98 · « **Reply #99 on:** 21 February 2013, 05:12:38 pm »

aftermarket sprockets go on anyway,did you remove it for the stud work and parhaps refit the other way round,if the sprockets slightly worn it might be picking up on the chain