Author Topic: The front sprocket nut and washer saga (Read 50929 times)

limax2 · « **Reply #150 on:** 25 March 2013, 08:15:33 pm »

Quote from: Enceladus on 25 March 2013, 04:36:57 pm

just spotted this.
no idea if my bike has had this done or not.
got a rough idea (and i mean rough!) where to look etc, but can someone explain really simply so that an idiot like me can understand!
thanks

Just to add you will need to remove the small gear change lever before you can remove the cover (10mm spanner required). Make a note of its possition, but there should be a small punch mark on the end of the shaft that lines up with the slot in the lever. The clutch cable going into the top of the cover remains in the cover as you remove it. Not a difficult job as long as you remove all the socket head bolts, five from memory, not forgetting one at the back that goes between the top and bottom chain runs. Also don't loose the two hollow dowel tubes that usually stay in the cover, but can fall out.
You can actually see the nut without removing anything if you sight along the top run of the chain and shine a torch into the gap behind the cover. It works better if you are in a darkish place. (Physically I mean, not mentally

). You can't tell from this if it is loose at all and without experience if it has the thicker nut.

Enceladus · « **Reply #151 on:** 26 March 2013, 09:11:42 am »

thanks

darrsi has to have the best reply

will have a look tonight if i get the chance.

Dave48 · « **Reply #152 on:** 25 April 2013, 10:38:11 am »

Just to add my own experience: Collected 03 Foxeye 2 wks ago-it came with a new chain fitted but, although rear sprocket is good, when I managed to get the front cover off found I had the 9mm nut & a useless lockwasher,holding on a very worn/hooked aftermarket sprocket. Yamaha dealer supplied the modified 12mm nut & lockwasher for £2-44 & I bought an official Yamaha sprocket for £29. At least the old one was tight-had to put an extension pipe on the socket handle to get it to loosen. Didn't bother replacing pointless paper gasket-cleaned loads of crap(10 years worth?) from the cover and engine case, relubed clutch thrust assy & hey presto-nice smooth clutch action and transmission free of jerks/snatching. Torqued the nut to 75nm. Theres a world of difference between the proper Yamaha sprocket with built in plastic/rubber cushioning & the cheap item now winging its way back to Chinese steelworks courtesy of our local scrap man

elbrownos · « **Reply #153 on:** 25 April 2013, 02:22:25 pm »

Never done it myself so I'm no expert but don't you need to replace the chain & sprockets as a set?

Dead Eye · « **Reply #154 on:** 25 April 2013, 03:10:22 pm »

Ideally yes, you should replace them as a set. Otherwise you can find that old sprockets will wear a new chain down pretty fast and vice versa I believe

unfazed · « **Reply #155 on:** 25 April 2013, 06:59:07 pm »

Quote from: elbrownos on 25 April 2013, 02:22:25 pm

Never done it myself so I'm no expert but don't you need to replace the chain & sprockets as a set?

I agree,
I always replace 3 front sprockets to one chain and rear sprockets and chain and rear sprocket last in excess of 40000miles.
Replacing the ful set everytime the front is a bit worn is totally unnecesssary. The front sprocket wears 3 times faster than the rear (15 teeth to 45 teeth). A well looked after chain will need the front replacing around the 10000 mile mark. That is about £21 for 3 sprockets compared to £150 to £200 for a full set.
I am on my third front sprocket with 39000 miles on the chain and rear sprocket with little or no chain lift off the rear sprocket.

Dave48 · « **Reply #156 on:** 26 April 2013, 03:26:34 am »

The shop I bought bike from had fitted a new "gold" chain-probably the cheapest they could find. Rear sprocket has good teeth profile & as said wears at a slower rate than front. The front cheapo aftermarket sprocket had severe hooking of teeth(in direction of travel ie anticlockwise) .When I first rode the bike I was aware that all was not 100%. I will be looking at cush drive rubbers if there is any slop remaining in system. Correct chain tension neither too tight nor too slack & regular cleaning & lubing extends the life of these items amazingly-although there are times when I reminisce about my old shaft drive Honda!-less mess & trouble but if I kept my hands oil-free would I be a "plastic biker"?

darrsi · « **Reply #157 on:** 26 April 2013, 06:28:32 am »

Quote from: Dave48 on 26 April 2013, 03:26:34 am

The shop I bought bike from had fitted a new "gold" chain-probably the cheapest they could find. Rear sprocket has good teeth profile & as said wears at a slower rate than front. The front cheapo aftermarket sprocket had severe hooking of teeth(in direction of travel ie anticlockwise) .When I first rode the bike I was aware that all was not 100%. I will be looking at cush drive rubbers if there is any slop remaining in system. Correct chain tension neither too tight nor too slack & regular cleaning & lubing extends the life of these items amazingly-although there are times when I reminisce about my old shaft drive Honda!-less mess & trouble but if I kept my hands oil-free would I be a "plastic biker"?

I changed the cush drive rubbers on mine last year, and to be honest they are made of such solid rubber that when i looked at the old one's they were more or less like new as well. I changed them anyway as i had the wheel off but it really was rather pointless to be honest.
I had a shaft drive Honda NTV600 for about 10 years prior to the Fazer, and i do miss not having to mess about with chains or scrub the rear wheel to clean any lube off it.

And my bike was white, which is why i'm so fond of Foxwood's white Fazer, it was such an easier colour to keep clean and stay looking clean.
My Fazer is black, and although it can look the nuts after a good clean, polish up and a bit of TLC, and is obviously faster and better looking than other coloured bikes, it can also look like shite again after just one downpour of rain

wezdavo · « **Reply #158 on:** 26 April 2013, 07:27:16 am »

Quote from: unfazed on 25 April 2013, 06:59:07 pm

Quote from: elbrownos on 25 April 2013, 02:22:25 pm
Never done it myself so I'm no expert but don't you need to replace the chain & sprockets as a set?
I agree,
I always replace 3 front sprockets to one chain and rear sprockets and chain and rear sprocket last in excess of 40000miles.
Replacing the ful set everytime the front is a bit worn is totally unnecesssary. The front sprocket wears 3 times faster than the rear (15 teeth to 45 teeth). A well looked after chain will need the front replacing around the 10000 mile mark. That is about £21 for 3 sprockets compared to £150 to £200 for a full set.
I am on my third front sprocket with 39000 miles on the chain and rear sprocket with little or no chain lift off the rear sprocket.

I do the same, as you say fronts wear at a higher rate..

elbrownos · « **Reply #159 on:** 26 April 2013, 09:40:59 am »

Good to know.
How do you judge when the front sprocket needs replacing?
To change it, do you break the chain or loosen the rear axle bolts?

Dead Eye · « **Reply #160 on:** 26 April 2013, 10:53:59 am »

Just loosen the rear axle bolts, but you may even be able to get it off without doing that to be fair. I managed it on my fire damaged one as at the time the rear wheel was stuck solid and the axle bolts weren't having any of it :P

elbrownos · « **Reply #161 on:** 26 April 2013, 06:19:08 pm »

I went to Loughborough Yamaha today to get the replacement front sprocket nut.
It was only 9mm so I didn't buy it. They insisted this is the current one but knew nothing of the saga.
Any ideas?

Chris · « **Reply #162 on:** 26 April 2013, 06:25:51 pm »

Make sure and quote the part number of the new one to make sure and get the right one.

Chris

Edit: Part number for new 12mm nut + washer is 90891-10124

darrsi · « **Reply #163 on:** 26 April 2013, 06:27:41 pm »

I would've told them to make a bloody effort to find out and do their job!
Give Fowlers of Bristol a ring and order it from them, they'll ask you for your chassis number so have it ready, it's on the frame at the front of the tank.
I haven't got the part number to hand but it's on this forum so do a search for the correct part number.

gerkin · « **Reply #164 on:** 26 April 2013, 06:29:51 pm »

Quote from: elbrownos on 26 April 2013, 06:19:08 pm

I went to Loughborough Yamaha today to get the replacement front sprocket nut.
It was only 9mm so I didn't buy it. They insisted this is the current one but knew nothing of the saga.
Any ideas?

granbys said the same to me ,yamaha dont want to admit there is a problem

gerkin · « **Reply #165 on:** 26 April 2013, 06:48:37 pm »

nut and washer kit part no

darrsi · « **Reply #166 on:** 26 April 2013, 07:10:44 pm »

Yeah that's the jobbie, sorry i was using my phone earlier otherwise i would've searched for the part number, but do not accept any other number than 90891-10124

Dead Eye · « **Reply #167 on:** 26 April 2013, 07:38:59 pm »

Its also available from Wemoto - purchased this myself so can confirm that it is most definitely the 12mm nut

http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/yh-90891-10124/

andybesy · « **Reply #168 on:** 27 April 2013, 04:19:06 am »

Loughborough yammaha fitted new nut and washer for me few months back . It was at my request and I supplied my own part which I got from wemoto. they didn't seem very clear on the issue and said it wasn't necessary , but did fit new one without too much complaint when asked and part provided.

andybesy · « **Reply #169 on:** 27 April 2013, 04:24:49 am »

Oh and if you have the google-fu I was eventually able to find a pdf copy of the yammaha service bulletin, technically it was for early fz6 models but same issue, had print out at ready but not needed in the end

Andy Clap · « **Reply #170 on:** 27 April 2013, 10:29:58 am »

Quote from: YorkieFazer on 23 August 2012, 12:47:39 pm

I contacted my local Yamaha dealer, CMC Clay Cross, Chesterfield and mentioned the inspection notice. They knew immediately about the problem and checked if my bike had been done, it hadn't, they ordered the parts and fitted them free of charge.
Can't fault the service that I have received from CMC.
I would advise anybody to contact their dealer and mention the inspection notice to service before buying the parts.

Ditto. My 2002 Fazer 600, not dealer serviced since 2004, CMC Clay Cross did it FOC with no quibbles at all. This was about September 2012. Even got a free coffee in the cafe while waiting!

gerkin · « **Reply #171 on:** 27 April 2013, 05:34:48 pm »

Quote from: Dead Eye on 26 April 2013, 07:38:59 pm

Its also available from Wemoto - purchased this myself so can confirm that it is most definitely the 12mm nut

http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/yh-90891-10124/

thats a good price , i paid 10.50 delivered from granbys 2 years ago

Enceladus · « **Reply #172 on:** 04 May 2013, 08:29:30 pm »

can anyone tell a numpty like me wether i need to sort mine please ?
and yes, i know its mucky!
took the photo's before i cleaned the crud out!

sprocket 1

sprocket 2

sprocket 3

sprocket 4

ChristoT · « **Reply #173 on:** 04 May 2013, 09:05:52 pm »

Quote from: Enceladus on 04 May 2013, 08:29:30 pm

can anyone tell a numpty like me wether i need to sort mine please ?
and yes, i know its mucky!
took the photo's before i cleaned the crud out!

They *look* like the new type to me, but doesn't hurt to get a proper dealer to take a peek at it.

Foxwood · « **Reply #174 on:** 04 May 2013, 09:15:53 pm »

Doesn't matter really as the nut has held. Mine was visibly loose and only the locking washer was holding the sprocket on. I'd still recommend acquiring the new nut when changing the sprockets next time. Doesn't look like the nut is flush with the axle end as the new nut is, so could be that's still the old nut type. Only measuring the thickness would tell for sure. 9 mm -> old nut and 12 mm -> new nut.