RPM clock doing weird things

[FuZzBoM]

Hi all, I have had an epic 4 days in Ireland covering over 1200 miles.. my 51 plate fazer has been spot on and not missed a beat.
however... leaving the ferry i noticed my RPM guage doing odd things while ticking over.

flicks to 0rpm then to 7000rpm and then back to 0 again. it keeps doing this till i ride off and then the guage sits at normal RPM's while riding.
It done this pretty much all the way home from what i could see.

any suggestions to what this could be?

thanks,

[Tmation]

Your EXUP valve is not operating properly, either its sticking or the cables are out of adjustment, thats the error code for it.


lots of info on here on how to sort it and here; [size=78%]http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/exupmaintenance.html[/size] and for the main page of loads of other useful stuff [size=78%]http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/[/size]


Good luck

[ghostbiker]

as above, its Exup fault code.
Pats site (the above link) is a great guide on how to service it. its something that not included in the normal service so is overlooked and needs regular maintanance. once you get used to it, it takes 10-15 mins tops. but for first time take you time and soak all bolts in pen fluid for a few days before trying to remove them.

[FuZzBoM]

Cheers for the info guys. most helpful. i will check the valve out after work.
Do we have a list of fault codes for future reference?

thanks,

[ghostbiker]

the ones i know off hand are

3k is TPS (throtle postion sensor)
4k i think was something to do with speedo sensor
7k exup fault
9k is i think the lean angle thing. to cut the bike out when it falls over.

from memory so dont take them as gospal

[mcyoungy]

yep they're right

[sadlonelygit]

ignore them, it's totally focc'd.
i'll do you a favour and take it off your hands for £500..........for a mate like!

[FuZzBoM]

haha funny man. i must admit i do feel guilty.. it was a mint one i picked up about a month ago with 5000 miles on the clock. its now in my garage looking filthy with an extra 1500 miles on it since i got it.

[red98]

its all about the ride....enjoy your fazer

[FuZzBoM]

Washed the poor thing this evening and took it for a quick run to get any standing water off. oddly it seems to have cured itself as it no longer flicks from 0 to 7000 rpm and pulls just like it did before.
However i still plan to open her up and give it a clean and check the cables etc.

[ghostbiker]

Get on top of the exup as once you do its easy to keep on top of.
Also just because the 7k fault isn't showing dosent meen there is not a problem. I once had the exup jam when I hit a rock doing some off road in Scotland. Yet it didn't show a fault. And I have had a fault code when there was no fault as such but the cables were not set right It's an odd thing for sure LOL.

[FuZzBoM]

Well I attempted to open it all up but the Alan bolts are seized solid... Covered them in wd40 but no joy. Even a knock with a hammer wouldn't budge them.
Decided to leave it over night and see if the wd40 penetrates. The cables were well out of alignment so at the very least the fault shouldn't come back. Cheers all.

[solorider]

Well I attempted to open it all up the the Alan bolts are seized solid... Covered them in wd40 but no joy. Even a knock with a hammer wouldn't budge them.
Decided to leave it over night and see if the wd40 penetrates. The cables were well out of alignment so at the very least the fault shouldn't come back. Cheers all.

wd40 is not a penetrating fluid,you need a proper penetrating fluid like plusgas or similar,and get some heat on the bolt,when you reassemble the exup fit some stainless bolts,i got mine off ebay in the correct lengths

[Falcon 269]

I foresee stripped bolt heads, a gnashing of teeth, great wailing in distress and a flurry of posts here.

Read this now and you'll be emotionally prepared for what's to come:  http://fazerowners.yuku.com/topic/21517

Hey, you might even get lucky, learn a few dodges to ease those bolts out and avoid the worst.  Probably not but here's wishing you luck.

And +1 on the use of proper penetrating fluid and heat.  And prayer!  Don't waste your time trying again today.  The WD40 won't have done any good.  Even pukka penetrating fluid will need several nights of application before it does the job ... clean off the corrosion all around to give it a better chance of reaching the threads, too.

[ghostbiker]

Damn, bad luck on the stuck bolts.
As above use a good pen fluid and above all don rush it. give the bolts a good coat of it once or twice a day for at least 3 days and better to go a weak if you can.

if they do snap it isnt the end of the world though.
the exup is a common problem but 90% of it is caused by lack of maintanace. it may be a pain to fix now but once done it realy is a quick and easy thing to keep on top of. i tend to service mine twice a year, i used to do it everytime i saw a post about exup problems but i ended up doing it weekly at one point :P

Good quality Stainless steel bolts to replace the old ones is a must as well. i coat them well with coppa slip and use a spring washer on them (spring washer meens you dont need to torque them up to tight and easyer to undo them next time)


If you happen to go to the peterbrough BMF show this weekend i have a few sets of exup bolts and washers i allways take to the owners club stand. but any good hardwear store will have them to.

[FuZzBoM]

Any idea what size the bolts are? they look like they could be about an M4 but hard to tell with them stuck in lol.. just thinking i will change them for some stainless ones IF i ever get them out. but would be nice to have them ready to just replace them.

Funny enough i was discussing with a mate about the BMF but alas i am busy this weekend so i am unable to make it 

[solorider]

Any idea what size the bolts are? they look like they could be about an M4 but hard to tell with them stuck in lol.. just thinking i will change them for some stainless ones IF i ever get them out. but would be nice to have them ready to just replace them.

Funny enough i was discussing with a mate about the BMF but alas i am busy this weekend so i am unable to make it 

they are m6,i think the short cover screws are 10mm long which i had to use a washer and the inner cover screws are longer but you can get away with 10mm,the cover screws will bottom out if they are too long

[FuZzBoM]

Full marks go to Falcon 269 for his accurate prediction... apart from the great wailing bit because after his post i expected the worst and no surprise all 3 sheared clean off.
as suggested proper penetrating fluid and even a blow torch but no luck  1 did tease me and started to come out but the bolt was to weak to take it.

In truth it does not look like its ever been off so i am not surprised.

Now then, do i try and drill them out in situ or shall i take the exhaust off. i am thinking the latter tbh.

[FZ_Rich]

Well my exup was squeaking when it closed and my main stand was too so I thought while I'm waiting for rear shock to be sorted I'd slap some coppergrease around.

Sheared allen head bolt on exup end plate.
Bust Cable Pulley (cables were rusted in solid).
Sheard 1 exhaust stud into the head.

Other than that it's not too bad 

[solorider]

hopefully your down pipes wont be as bad as mine was to remove as shown on this post http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,2330.0.html i had to dremel the exup bolts off as the heads had long disapeared because of rust

[purplebear7]

Hi Guys,
 
I have a biking buddy in the USA .. he ends most of his posts with: 
     ''What do I know .. I just work at the Car Wash'' .. so on that basis .. here I go  .
 
I had three Gen 1s .. and never ANY Exup Problems .. it really is an easy job to look after them .. once you've done it.
 
One little extra thing I used to do was 'paint' the whole Cast Iron Box (the lump that holds the valve) with a thick coat oil ..  OLIVE OIL  ideally when the unit was very warm .. but not red hot. 
 
The Oil (of course) then burns on .. and smokes and stinks for a few minutes .. it forms a black 'coating' on the metal.  This coating is tough and seems to be waterproof .. it protects the whole exup area and prevents rust and rubbish forming on the cast iron parts .. as well as around the steel bolts  (they come out easily, the oil is not a problem)
 
The coat ends up looking Matt Black .. so visually it is a lot better than the rusty versions.
 
Best to also replace the original Yammy Bendy Bolts and get some stainless steel bolts fitted .. but a regular coat of Olive Oil really does seem to save a whole load of trouble  . 
 
I have talked to Mike GTX (Falcon 269) who worked his magic on all my bikes and lives just down the road from me) about this 'Oil Painting' idea .. he seemed to agree that it was not a bad thing to do .. got get a 1" brush today.
 
I think any vegetable or mineral oil would work the same .. but here in Spain the Olive slippy stuff is very slightly less expensive     Try your corner shop 

Worth a thought .. maybe?   Stay Safe Peeps      Trev     (The Polar Bear)
 

[FuZzBoM]

Right, epic day of drilling bolts out and tapping the holes again. done a rather good job in my opinion 
had to take the collector box off to do it proper so cant put it back on until the new gaskets arrive. at least i can prep everything like cleaning and greasing the valve.

I did consider welding a plate over the end to just eliminate the valve but was unsure how this would affect low don torque. i then noticed you can buy an after market one with this already in place.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FZS-1000-FZS1000-FAZER-EXHAUST-DOWNPIPES-FRONTPIPES-/150819249281?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item231d871c81

Anyone done this at all?

cheers,

[tomlinscote]

If the valve is removed or siezes open, then it feels really flat below 6-7 thou rpm then behaves normally. if valve siezes shut it goes ok (ish)  up to say 4-5 thou then feels strangled. Keep the valve and service it properly and the bike is a good 'un
 
P

[solorider]

Right, epic day of drilling bolts out and tapping the holes again. done a rather good job in my opinion 
had to take the collector box off to do it proper so cant put it back on until the new gaskets arrive. at least i can prep everything like cleaning and greasing the valve.

I did consider welding a plate over the end to just eliminate the valve but was unsure how this would affect low don torque. i then noticed you can buy an after market one with this already in place.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FZS-1000-FZS1000-FAZER-EXHAUST-DOWNPIPES-FRONTPIPES-/150819249281?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item231d871c81

Anyone done this at all?

cheers,

it would be interesting seeing how those downpipes fare against a standard working downpipe,as the ones listed are 4-2-1 rather than 4-1 the 4-2-1 would give a better midrange but not as good as a 4-1 at the top end.also looking at those pipes the shape where the pipes join look more efficient as on the oe exhaust the exup in its own right can cause a slight disturbance in the gas flow plus the oulet pipe is to one side,i dont think the oe exhaust is the most efficient in design

[Falcon 269]

Sandy exhaust headers?  Don't waste your money.