New Chain Time = Sprockets too ?

[fazersharp]

Had the cover off for some pictures and the metal looks fine to me but the plastic damper is really breaking up - bits of it stuck in the lube gunge.

[fazersharp]

If you can wait get individual sockets & breaker bar like silverline off Ebay, make sure you get the right size drive for the 32mm front sprocket nut as direct to the breaker without adaptor is better. Are you still going to remove the swing arm then?. 

Yes I will make sure its a 1/2 inch socket direct to the breaker. I will have a look at ebay but sometimes the extra cost of heavy item post makes it the same as getting from my local screfix.

I have just spoken to Bike Tourque Racing and they tell me that all of their chains - at least D.I.D anyway are supplied open ended with the relevant joining link so looks like I can do it all without taking off the swing arm but I cant help thinking I should anyway to re grease it after 21 years - 22k dry mileage 

Also they can no longer get the Ognibene chain joining tool but instead it will be a Afram one

[bandit]

There is a video on how to use the afram one , the front sprocket is a bit hooked but as your going to replace front/rear & chain all's good, just make sure before you remove anything swing arm/ chain or sprockets get the front sprocket nut undone replace new front sprocket & washer/nut before removing old chain/rear wheel, there are a couple of ways to use the chain to remove the stubborn nut if you have never done it before.       

[fazersharp]

Brilliant thanks.

[fazersharp]

Also going to need some loctite 620 for the front sprok

[bandit]

Also going to need some loctite 620 for the front sprok

I would & have used blue 243 loctite as this locks & is easier if removal is required in the future.

[fazersharp]

Also going to need some loctite 620 for the front sprok

I would & have used blue 243 loctite as this locks & is easier if removal is required in the future.

That is cheaper and can get in smaller bottles but the official OEM maintenance guide says 620. I think partly as 620 is heat resistant as well as being Focing strong   

[robbo]

The longer the breaker bar the better. As suggested if you're not in a tearing hurry ebay would be your best bet.

[darrsi]

I use a 1.5" piece of aluminium scrap tube I found at work years ago, works a treat for leverage.

[fazersharp]

Think I will get myself a 600mm one which is £5 more than a 450mm one. I have bits of pipe but nothing very strong. 
 

[fazersharp]

The longer the breaker bar the better. As suggested if you're not in a tearing hurry ebay would be your best bet.

Been looking at some ebay ones but for £10 incl del I am a bit dubious of the quality. £4 of the cost must be the post.

[fazersharp]

there are a couple of ways to use the chain to remove the stubborn nut if you have never done it before.       

Would one of those be to remove the wheel and re insert the spindle and pin the chain to the spindle with a screwdriver. But what is the second chain way.

[bandit]

there are a couple of ways to use the chain to remove the stubborn nut if you have never done it before.       

Would one of those be to remove the wheel and re insert the spindle and pin the chain to the spindle with a screwdriver. But what is the second chain way.

The first way is to get someone to apply the rear brake while you undo the nut easier with a helper but can be done on your own & the second way is to say put a piece of suitable timber say 2x4 from the right hand side between the wheel spokes resting on each side  swing arm so the wheel locks on the wood which locks the chain so you can undo the nut. So when you torque up the new sprocket nut put the piece of wood under the swing arm locking the chain with the spoke of wheel. When you've done that bend the washer up but don't do it on opposite flats do it on two adjoining flats, like L shape. Hope that makes sense. I suggested Loctite 243 because it is suitable for dismantling with normal hand tools if required in the future.          

[fazersharp]

there are a couple of ways to use the chain to remove the stubborn nut if you have never done it before.       

Would one of those be to remove the wheel and re insert the spindle and pin the chain to the spindle with a screwdriver. But what is the second chain way.

The first way is to get someone to apply the rear brake while you undo the nut easier with a helper but can be done on your own & the second way is to say put a piece of suitable timber say 2x4 from the right hand side between the wheel spokes resting on each side  swing arm so the wheel locks on the wood which locks the chain so you can undo the nut. So when you torque up the new sprocket nut put the piece of wood under the swing arm locking the chain with the spoke of wheel. When you've done that bend the washer up but don't do it on opposite flats do it on two adjoining flats, like L shape. Hope that makes sense. I suggested Loctite 243 because it is suitable for dismantling with normal hand tools if required in the future.          

Thanks. Been looking at del boys garage vids

[bandit]

Some peoples aren't to keen on them but I find them to be a good source of info to pass on here not fazer specific but gives a good idea to help others who may be new to bikes.
Did you decide on which chain kit to go with, one with the silent rear sprocket?.

[fazersharp]

Defiantly will be a gold D.I.D XV chain and the Ognibene silent front but still thinking about the silent rear, going to do some reading on it. I plan on using gear oil and a brush as a lube regime but just wondering if the rubber ring on the rear would just trap stuff. Or if because of it oil would pool a little and the result would be more fling - rather than sort of tracking across the sprocket face.     
This is a good view of the rear. I just like the shape holes in it and that it is silver, fancy it with stainless steel nuts but can not find out if it has a treatment of if its just going to be rusty steel down the linehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk7OVEj8gqQ

[darrsi]

Defiantly will be a gold D.I.D XV chain and the Ognibene silent front but still thinking about the silent rear, going to do some reading on it. I plan on using gear oil and a brush as a lube regime but just wondering if the rubber ring on the rear would just trap stuff. Or if because of it oil would pool a little and the result would be more fling - rather than sort of tracking across the sprocket face.     
This is a good view of the rear. I just like the shape holes in it and that it is silver, fancy it with stainless steel nuts but can not find out if it has a treatment of if its just going to be rusty steel down the linehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk7OVEj8gqQ

Eh?
You're overthinking this a bit too much.
Paint the chain, wipe it with a rag, then if you really want to, put the bike in gear on the centre stand with a tiny bit of throttle and fling off any excess oil before you even go anywhere!
Sorted.
Dunno where you're even going with all this "silent" stuff, it's a motorbike not a boring electric car.
What you need is some obscenely noisy slip on exhaust to piss your neighbour's off and cover up all unknown suspicious noises coming from wherever, it's a tried and tested method that's worked seamlessly for decades. 

[Dynspud]

 


A decent exhaust fixes loads of "issues" you think your bike might have.
That and regular basic maintenance checks of the essentials.
Your bike will always make some noises as it's a shed load of moving parts all whizzing around, moving up & down or rattling against each other and, on mine at least, they're 15+ years old in a lot of cases.
....and we know how much trouble 15 year olds can be

[darrsi]

A decent exhaust fixes loads of "issues" you think your bike might have.
That and regular basic maintenance checks of the essentials.
Your bike will always make some noises as it's a shed load of moving parts all whizzing around, moving up & down or rattling against each other and, on mine at least, they're 15+ years old in a lot of cases.
....and we know how much trouble 15 year olds can be

His bike is not even a teenager any more.....it'll probably get married soon. 

[fazersharp]

Eh?
You're overthinking this a bit too much.

That's what I do.
I like the idea of the silent front as that is similar to the OEM. But the rear silent I don't think is necessary but it has nice fancy holes and a pretty silver colour and is cheaper (i think ) than paying for a fancy Renthal or something.   
 

[fazersharp]

Ordered this in the End https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC

[darrsi]

Just a pre warning before you think something is wrong, when you fit a new D.I.D. chain it will make a buzzing sound for a while on the plastic chain guide.

[fazersharp]

Just a pre warning before you think something is wrong, when you fit a new D.I.D. chain it will make a buzzing sound for a while on the plastic chain guide.

[fazersharp]

@darrsi is any gear oil ok like this https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-mineral-1l/p/0077164?nst=0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm72N88j44QIV8QDTCh2tfgTMEAQYASABEgJBHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[darrsi]

@darrsi is any gear oil ok like this https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-mineral-1l/p/0077164?nst=0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm72N88j44QIV8QDTCh2tfgTMEAQYASABEgJBHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yeah, truth is it still looks like oil and is still runny, so it's no different to look at, but the figures say it's heavier than normal so should stick around a little better.
Always apply after a ride when the chain's still warm.