Gearbox!

[Screwdriver]

So having put it off for as long as I possibly could, my trusty old Fazer has finally been promoted to shed project. A sticky gearchange, symptomatic of a bent selector fork, means I'll be ripping it right down to it's innards for all to see.





She's 50 odd thousand miles old and long overdue a good overhaul anyway. First off, drain all the fluids, remove the tank, radiator, exhaust.









No great problems, ended up filling three five litre fuel cans, radiator fluid was in excellent condition, engine oil less so! No nasties in there though. Radiator itself looks a bit grim but nothing that a good soda blast and paint won't put right.





Exhaust came off really easily, actually it fell off once I took out the footrest hanger bolt, the rear mounting point has rusted off. Amazingly, all the rust flange nuts came off super easy, not a single stud came out, broke or stripped. Brass nuts will replace them.








I know it looks terrible but it's a trick of the light. Honest! Black bikes look bad in photos if you have to use flash, in real life it looks pretty good. Here's a few more photos, this is as far as I got today.














Just one interesting thing I noticed. The EXUP valve cover came off so easily, I was convinced all my servicing had paid off. The valve itself though was as stuck as if it had been welded shut. Hey ho, soon fix that and look forwards to a few more horses next time out.


Screwd.


PS: oh and yes, I have flattened the retaining ring and loosened off the sprocket nut. In case you were wondering.

[Screwdriver]

Decided not to bother with a bracket or frame but just to use a handy trolley. Wheeled it outside to remove all the crud.








After blocking up the inlet and exhaust, flooded it with engine degreaser, hose it down, flood it again, etc.





It goes a bit brown and mucky and the iPhone is still struggling with its blackness (brownness in this case). Dried it off as much as poss, hit it with a blower to get rid of as much water as possible then leave to dry. Finally, before wheeling it into the shed, it gets flooded with WD40 to stop it corroding.





continued...

[Screwdriver]

It sits very well upside down so you can get at the sump. Also released all of the side covers, just kept them on loose while working.





Oh my god, it's full of shiney. Shiny gubbins in this case. Combined water/oil pump need to come out before you can get to the lower crankcase bolts.


Everything gets bagged and tagged.





And this is as far as I got.





All the bolts out, crankcase loose except for at the very end, suspiciously stuck at the flywheel end*. There must be summit under there but I don't have the right size puller so I couldn't do any more.


Screwd.


*In that picture the flywheel cover is still in place but I did take it off before trying to split the case!

[Screwdriver]

So a bit of a bodge to free the flywheel:









...and I could finally pop off the lower crankcase.





Difficult to tell even from this photo what's up.





Fairly obvious from that one though. Forks are bent and rubbing on the gears. Lots more gubbins to come off before I can pull the shafts out though and the bench is now so full it will have to wait until I clear enough space for the final dissembly. Maybe tomorrow.


Screwd.

[Screwdriver]

...and now we're back live. I cut and paste that off another forum, thought you guys might be interested.


I'm planning on doing a fork swap while I'm at it, I already have a replacement gearbox lined up.


I am rather tempted to tune the engine while its apart. Hot cams, lightened flywheel that sort of thing. Anyone know the best way to go about that?


Screwd.

[dickturpin]

You're a brave fellow....good luck with the rest of the mission. Oh, and very interesting pictures.

[kebab19]

Good work, that sump picture brings back horrible memories for me....

Few have tuned beyond Ivans/Akra/Ignition Advancer/R1 head gasket & those that did on the American site weren't overly thrilled with the results. Think you'd need to seriously beef the clutch up too to cope with a large amount of extra horsepower. 

[Falcon 269]

Nice work and great photos ... more, please.

Very interested to know a bit more about your flywheel removal 'bodge'.  I think I can see what you've done but would appreciate a fuller explanation.  It's always a bear of a job so congrats on getting it off without major drama.

Tuning options?  Depends on the depth of your wallet.   I think Yoshimura did trick cams for the original R1 motor that can be dialled in for use with the Fazer in conjunction with the thinner R1 head gasket.  Whether they're still available is doubtful.  Not much you can do to the head apart from clean up the webs in intake ports.   Ivan can advise on the cams etc ... worth a call to him in the USA, he'll give you straight advice. 

Devilsyam can advise on big bore (1080cc, IIRC) and NOS options as he's had both over the years. 

[steeeve66]

Really interesting read s'driver, and great photos. Best of luck, and look forward to hearing how you get on. S

[Screwdriver]

Good work, that sump picture brings back horrible memories for me....

Few have tuned beyond Ivans/Akra/Ignition Advancer/R1 head gasket & those that did on the American site weren't overly thrilled with the results. Think you'd need to seriously beef the clutch up too to cope with a large amount of extra horsepower.

Hmm. I already have everything except the R1 head gasket. I'll do a search but what's the story on that?

[Screwdriver]

Nice work and great photos ... more, please.

Very interested to know a bit more about your flywheel removal 'bodge'.  I think I can see what you've done but would appreciate a fuller explanation.  It's always a bear of a job so congrats on getting it off without major drama.

Well if you look at the picture I found a drill bit that fit nice and snug in the hole. I have quite a few odds and ends from various bikes and one rear wheel spindle had a perfect size thread to fit in the flywheel, which is all th regular tool is really. I should have cut it down really but thought I'd try it first. The socket extendeer levers off the insert bit and the spindle to hold the flywheel still and the only other thing I did was to heat up the flywheel with a hot air gun before cracking it off.


It came off pretty easily...


Screwd.

[Screwdriver]

So these forks are dead:





Really ground up after I rode it a few hundrd miles with an obviously dodgy box. I'd pulled a really nice wheelie, hit the balance point just right and was looking for third gear and it just wouldn't go in. When it came back down 2 - 3 was fubar.





Pulled the side plate off with a couple of bolts which you tighten up against the cases, pulled out the fork spindle and there it is.





No really fiddly bit, no odd springs and nothing that looks too complicated, there's just a lot of it that has to go back in the right order.





Here's te old forks with the s/h units off ebay. My old ones are obviously knackered but even one of the replacements is looking a bit bent. Recieved wisdom tells me the slightest sign of a scrape and the fork is bent so I need to source one new fork.


I have a new box because my dogs look a bit rough, really though you need a magnifying glass to see the difference in wear on my 50k miler vs. the wear on the alleged 20k replacment. Here's a better pic of the old forks.





Going to buy the bits and bobs I need, few fixings, gaskets and a fork of course. New clutch and cable. NOT a third party cable this time, they are a waste of money. Had a couple, both rubbish so the OEM clutch cable is expensive for a reason.


Any recommendations for where to get the parts? Ideally an online shop with a fiche so I can mull over the bits and place an order on the spot.


Cheers




Screwd.

[solorider]

only goes upto 2003 is cmnsl http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzs1000_model16744/ or in the uk http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/vinsearch.asp?vin=fz1s but i find their prices do seem to be slightly more expensive than if you were to go to a dealer,but no part numbers where there are on cmnsl

[Jazoli]

Hello 


I've always used Fowlers for parts and they have been very good, parts manual is here to download with the correct part numbers

Edited to add this place was the cheapest by far for an EBC clutch and HD springs, £65 all in including postage

HTH

[solorider]

Hello 


I've always used Fowlers for parts and they have been very good, parts manual is here to download with the correct part numbers


HTH

good luck getting the correct part numbers off the link you supply,as it is for a fzr1000,i found out that last week when i downloaded it

[Jazoli]

I've changed it to the correct one that I have uploaded, help yourself if you want a copy, it won't be up for long 

[Screwdriver]

Linky no worky.

[Falcon 269]

Well if you look at the picture I found a drill bit that fit nice and snug in the hole. I have quite a few odds and ends from various bikes and one rear wheel spindle had a perfect size thread to fit in the flywheel, which is all th regular tool is really. I should have cut it down really but thought I'd try it first. The socket extendeer levers off the insert bit and the spindle to hold the flywheel still and the only other thing I did was to heat up the flywheel with a hot air gun before cracking it off.


It came off pretty easily...


Screwd.

Thanks - I had the basic mechanical interpretation right but the rear wheel spindle was a nice touch.  You did well to get that off without more hassle.

Mike

[Screwdriver]

Thanks - I had the basic mechanical interpretation right but the rear wheel spindle was a nice touch.  You did well to get that off without more hassle.

Mike

Yes thanks, done a lot of stripping and rebuilding, the most valuable tool in the shop is a decent, high power heat gun!


BTW are you Mike of Ivanising fame?


S.

[Falcon 269]

Guilty as charged.

[Screwdriver]

Guilty as charged.

You know this bike then and we've met. 50 thousand miles and not a glitch.


;D


Cheers


Steve

[nickodemon]

I use ron ayers for part no's and diagrams. Hope this helps http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/4/Make/Yamaha/YearID/44/Year/2003/ModelID/5986/Model/FZS1000_FZ1







[size=78%] [/size]

[Falcon 269]

 You know this bike then and we've met. 50 thousand miles and not a glitch.

Cheers

Steve
[/quote]

Hi Steve ... I knew I recalled your forum nickname.  

Help the Aged time ... was it Horsham, by chance?

Mike

[phil on a fazer]

mines on 30K and i hope to keep it forever and a day. When she gets to about 60k - 70k I've always thought i would do something similar to what your doing. My main problem would be though that once i get the engine out and sump off my mechanical knowledge would run out! and i bet to put it in to a dealer/specialist for a rebuild would cost quite a bit  (how much at a guess??)
 
Excellent thread, really interesting.

[Jazoli]

Linky no worky.

The one in my original post is, not the post quoted