Oil and filter change

[DryRob]

I use one of these

[Gaz73]

 I use Castrol Power 1 Racing Oil and Champion Oil Filter........... job done 

[Fazer Jake]

I use Castrol Power 1 Racing Oil and Champion Oil Filter........... job done 

Thought u were only supposed to run fazers on semi syn? 

[Gaz73]

I use Castrol Power 1 Racing Oil and Champion Oil Filter........... job done 

Thought u were only supposed to run fazers on semi syn? 

Ahem, my mistake, omit the 'racing' I use Castrol Power 1 4T in the Fazer and Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T in the scooter

[jason1]

Done the screwdriver  and hammer trick(messy shit) , all i use know is a standard oil filter chain. Works great on bike and car .

[Slaninar]

Thought u were only supposed to run fazers on semi syn? 

They work just fine on full synth.

KN - good.

Motul 7100, or 5100 if you want semi synth, cheaper one.

[Motorbreath]

The K&N oil filter comes with an attached nut.

[Dave48]

Any brand of bike oil that meets the spec. I have used Silkolene,Yamalube,Morris,Shell. Always semi-syn & 10W-40 for our climate.Any make of filter like HiFlo,Champion even Yamaha at a pinch(£!!). Buy an oil filter remover tool-about £7. Theres just enough room for the socket extension between the downpipes. Always put a smidgin of fresh oil on seal of new filter. Change drain plug washer if looking worn out-the washer that is! .

[Jbizzle]

Hi Guys,


I have some Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil left over from my car service, that I am hoping i can use for my bike. I have been told the Haynes manual states my FZS 600 (2003)  needs 10W-40 oil.
[/size][/color]
[/size]Being "5W" means the oil is designed to work at lower temperatures than the recommended "10W", does anyone know if this will affect the viscosity at higher temperatures? And therefore damage/wear my engine? [/color]

[/size]Thanks![/color]

[darrsi]

Personally I would stick with 10w/40 semi synthetic.

[jan.van.gent]

Hi Guys,


I have some Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil left over from my car service, that I am hoping i can use for my bike. I have been told the Haynes manual states my FZS 600 (2003)  needs 10W-40 oil.
[/size][/color]
[/size]Being "5W" means the oil is designed to work at lower temperatures than the recommended "10W", does anyone know if this will affect the viscosity at higher temperatures? And therefore damage/wear my engine? [/color]

[/size]Thanks![/color]

don't ever use car oil in a motorcycle with wet clutch! It will make the clutch slip.

I use Procycle 10W40 semi-synthetic.
https://www.louis.de/en/artikel/procycle-4t-engine-oil-semi-synthetic-10w-40-1-litre/10038450?list=164995864
In bottles of 4 liter, it's about 4.5€/liter, or thus for you guys 3.59 pound/liter
The quality is Ok of this oil. I used it in all my bikes so far, never troubles. Also read a few good reviews about it.

[Dave48]

Its the "lifeblood" of the engine so if Yamaha say 10W40 semi-synthetic thats what to use. Some car oils contain friction modifiers which work fine in car engines with their dry clutches & separate gearbox oil, but can play havoc in wet clutch(motorcycle) engines. Not worth the risk for the sake of a few quid.

[topgun44]

car oil change it every 3000 miles do it with all off me bikes in last 27 years and none gone bang yet

[Bretty]

On a side note (crikey someone's dug out an old thread!  well in fairness everyone complains if you don't use the search function  ...

Anyway as I was saying, talking about the clutch slipping, last time I rebuild my engine I used a 50/50 mix of molybdenum grease and engine oil on all the cam holders. This has obviously now gone through the engine and now my clutch slips at max torque. I only used a fine coating but obviously even a bit will cause a problem!

When people say the friction modifiers will 'kill' the clutch, can it be 'washed' off? Or is my clutch now ruined? I have a spare clutch, but could I not just give the old plates the washing up liquid or degreaser treatment, re-oil and refit?

Cheers! 

Brett

[Bimbam]

Castrol Power1 4T 10W-40. Original Yamaha oil-filter. Chance once a year or maksimum 8.000 km.

[Deefer666]

Don't bother spending the extra to buy a K&N oil filter, They are made in the same factory as the Hi-Flo filters & Hi-flo now do a "racing" filter that has a nut welded on the end so it can be removed in the future with an ordinary 17mm socket.


Don't buy a chain wrench to remove the filter, you wont have enough clearance to use it.... and they are shit. Buy the 3 fingered type then you can use it on any filter.

[fazersharp]

I got one like this but you need the right size (of course) http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/sealey-sx226-oil-filter-cap-wrench-74mm-x-14-flutes

[Jbizzle]

Its the "lifeblood" of the engine so if Yamaha say 10W40 semi-synthetic thats what to use. Some car oils contain friction modifiers which work fine in car engines with their dry clutches & separate gearbox oil, but can play havoc in wet clutch(motorcycle) engines. Not worth the risk for the sake of a few quid.

Thanks Dave, Purchased some 10w-40 Castrol Power 1 4T, I wes given a K&N filter with th bike when i purchased it last week so i think i am good to go!

[Bretty]

The K&N oil filter comes with an attached nut.

PRE-ROUNDED nut!  I've never had this nut work.   

[darrsi]

The K&N oil filter comes with an attached nut.

PRE-ROUNDED nut!  I've never had this nut work.   

Last one I had didn't fit any socket size at all, and had to use a chain wrench that I luckily already had tucked away.

[Frosties]

Always removed my oil filters with a marigold glove after wiping first - no issues!


As for the oil - irrespective of 10w/40, 10w30 etc the basics comes down to the fact that bike oil is designed with crushing qualities that allow for 8k oil changes after being crushed by gears, cogs etc. Car oil is essentially ok, as used by others, but the crushing qualities of the oil only last about 3k miles before it needs changing.


Me, I use semi synthetic bike oil because I can't be asked to change the oil every 3k miles if I use car oil.

[tommyardin]

Always removed my oil filters with a marigold glove after wiping first because my arms are like the Incredible Hulk. 


As for the oil - irrespective of 10w/40, 10w30 etc the basics comes down to the fact that bike oil is designed with crushing qualities that allow for 8k oil changes after being crushed by gears, cogs etc. Car oil is essentially ok, as used by others, but the crushing qualities of the oil only last about 3k miles before it needs changing.


Me, I use semi synthetic bike oil because I can't be asked to change the oil every 3k miles if I use car oil.

[Frosties]

Always removed my oil filters with a marigold glove after wiping first because my arms are like the Incredible Hulk. 


As for the oil - irrespective of 10w/40, 10w30 etc the basics comes down to the fact that bike oil is designed with crushing qualities that allow for 8k oil changes after being crushed by gears, cogs etc. Car oil is essentially ok, as used by others, but the crushing qualities of the oil only last about 3k miles before it needs changing.


Me, I use semi synthetic bike oil because I can't be asked to change the oil every 3k miles if I use car oil.

    Only 'cos I wank a lot Tommy 

[tommyardin]

Always removed my oil filters with a marigold glove after wiping first because my arms are like the Incredible Hulk. 


As for the oil - irrespective of 10w/40, 10w30 etc the basics comes down to the fact that bike oil is designed with crushing qualities that allow for 8k oil changes after being crushed by gears, cogs etc. Car oil is essentially ok, as used by others, but the crushing qualities of the oil only last about 3k miles before it needs changing.


Me, I use semi synthetic bike oil because I can't be asked to change the oil every 3k miles if I use car oil.

    Only 'cos I wank a lot Tommy 

And your point is? I still have to use the big filter sockety thing. I obviously need to up my game, although I not sure there are enough hours in the day to increase my game.