brake pads, oil and filter change

[darrenc]

OK foccers how easy is it to replace the rear pads? Also to do an oil and filter change? Also how much oil will I need for the oil and filter change, I don't a Haynes manual for the bike so any into would be appreciated, its  2003 600 for info.

[darrsi]

Ideally you should really clean up the rear pistons with a toothbrush and brake cleaner at the very least, then use Red Rubber Grease on the outside of the pistons to protect them from the elements, and to stop crap getting to the rubber seals, plus it keeps the seals supple .
The calipers really do need to be kept reasonably well maintained if you want the best out of them, and to avoid them seizing up on you in the future.


But that's your decision anyway.


There are 2 bolts holding the caliper in place, and you will probably want to slacken the tension bar that is bolted to the caliper as well.
Then you have two caliper pad pins that secure the pads in place, take them out and the pads will just fall out.


Again, brake cleaner is your friend here, you should really give the whole area a good clean up as it will be clogged up with grime and brake dust. Don't use any old degreaser, brake cleaner is safe but also leaves no residue which you really don't want on your pistons.


After cleaning the pistons you'll need to gently push them back in to the caliper to allow for the width of the new pads.
How easily these piston move is also a good indicator of what condition they're in. If you find them very tough to budge then you're gonna suffer in the near future.
Pop the new pads in, which are slightly spring loaded, and put the "cleaned up" pad pins back in and either torque them correctly, or just nip them up. DO NOT over tighten them, or you WILL damage the caliper thread. Been there, done that.
Use a small spanner or something to spread the pads apart, then you can put them back onto the disc and bolt the caliper back on.




The sump takes 2.5 litres of oil, or around 2.7 litres with a new oil filter.
No need to really wrench up the oil filter, just smear some oil on the rubber seal, then tighten up as much as you can by hand.
Over tighten it and you will regret it next time you go to change it. If it leaks, tighten it a bit more.
Same scenario with the sump bolt, do not wrench the hell out of it tightening it up, it's a good bolt with a lot of threads, and it's just plugging a hole so just nip it up, otherwise you will strip the threads or round off the head of the bolt.




There is a manual on this website, or you can just download it online as well, but i would seriously suggest buying a Haynes manual as computers/phones and oil are not the greatest combination. 

 

[darrsi]

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611242/Yamaha-Fzs600.html?page=46#manual

[darrenc]

I have a can of brake cleaner so will give the rear pistons a good clean, I hear they are prone to seize on the rear. Likewise I will clean front ones as well. I don't have red rubber grease, is it safe to put that on pistons? I heard you shouldn't really grease pistons up as they will attract dirt??  I do have copper greace, would you recommend that for back of pads? Good points regarding filter, will only hand tighten

[vinnyb]

Copper Grease is OK for the back of the brake pads to prevent them from squealing but don't put it on the pistons, it's abrasive and will damage the seals and wear the plating. Red rubber grease is the only thing you should use on your pistons. I just put a smear round my seals rather than on the piston itself. it stops them drying out, just move the piston in an out a little way, a couple of times and wipe off any excess. That'll be enough to prevent any crap building up on them.

[darrsi]

I have a can of brake cleaner so will give the rear pistons a good clean, I hear they are prone to seize on the rear. Likewise I will clean front ones as well. I don't have red rubber grease, is it safe to put that on pistons? I heard you shouldn't really grease pistons up as they will attract dirt??  I do have copper greace, would you recommend that for back of pads? Good points regarding filter, will only hand tighten

Invest in a small 200g pot of Red Rubber Grease, it lasts ages, doesn't go off and keeps the pistons and seals in good condition. The only dirt it will attract will be on the outside, it's underneath that counts.


The softer the pads you use, the more dust will be created. A lot of people like organic pads on the rear as they are softer on the disc and not so grabby, but on the downside they create a lot of dust which is what clogs the pistons up.
I use ceramic ones on my bike. You want to avoid sintered on the rear as they eat brake discs for fun, although they're fine on the front.


As said, a "very light" smear of copper grease is fine on the back of the pads, but don't even think about putting it on the pistons. The particles of copper will chew the seals up in no time.


You should get in the habit of cleaning and greasing your brakes at least once, or even twice a year if you have the chance.
The fronts are more fiddly and time consuming but the results are worth it, and once they're all functioning nicely and greased up properly the job won't be so bad next time.

[darrenc]

Is ACF50 any good for the pistons? I have a shitcload of that.

[darrsi]

Is ACF50 any good for the pistons? I have a shitcload of that.

Red Rubber Grease 

[darrsi]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REVOL-RED-RUBBER-GREASE-500g-BRAKE-SEALS-MASTER-CYLINDERS-/172513747387?hash=item282a9ee1bb:g:twoAAOSwiYFXE3~L


500g is quite a lot, but there are 200g pots for the same price so it is actually a bit of a bargain.

[Jules-C]

Undo the brake pad retaining pins a couple of turns before unbolting the caliper in case they started to corrode