Could not find the actual post (Or to lazy to look for many minutes)
So Cut and pasted from my computer as I save it as a word document.
Here's a little tip nothing to do with suspension, if you have a longish post that you want to put up on FOC-U, rather than typing directly into the Quote or Reply box ,type it into a Word document and when finished copy and paste it into the Quote or Reply field/box on FOC-U, if it all goes tits up as if often can and you lose all that you have typed you still have a copy in a Word document of what you typed.
Hi Guys,
I have been working on my suspension of late and have done a few significant modifications to both the front and rear ends.
The Rear Modifications:
Firstly I purchased a new Nitron rear shocker, it was built with the correct spring and settings for my riding weight and riding style.
Whilst replacing the shocker I stripped out the linkage and cleaned all the needle bearings and repacked with grease, I was surprised as there was still quite a bit of the original grease still in the bearings, they were showing no sigh of wear :-)
For the front forks I purchased a pair of YSS Cartridge Emulators from Wemoto.com.
(YSS Model PD310 for the 2002-2003 FZS 600 Fazer)
To facilitate the operating of the Emulators the Damper Rods need to have more holes drilled through them to overcome the damping effect of them. YSS recommend that 6 X 8mm holes be drilled in them to achieve this.
I went a slightly different route because the damper rods on the 2002-2003 FZS 600 are shorter (190mm) than the earlier Boxeye model (210mm), I was concerned about encroaching on the upper chambers of the forks when the forks are on full compression by drilling the 3 X Double (6) 8 mm holes. 3 X 8 = 24mm, plus 2 X 10 mm minimum spaces between holes = 44mm extension up the damper rods.
(using the centre of the original damper hole as a datum point)
I opted for 2 X Double (4) 10mm holes with one 15mm spacebetween them = 35mm, also to give me a little more lea way I used a fine chain saw file to lower the original 5mm damper hole centre by another 3mm, before drilling the 10 mm holes. 2 X 10mm = 20mm, plus 1 X 15mm space = 35mm, and as I had lowered my starting point by 3 mm, the extension up the damper rods is now 32mm as opposed to 44mm.
The general settings for the YSS Emulators is two full turns (For lighter (?) togged rider) in on the Emulator adjusting screw from initial emulator spring contact with the valve, I set mine to 3 full turns as I am 88-89 Kilos togged ready to ride (14 Stones).
This setting I am fairly happy with although 3.5 turns might have been better coupled with 15 weight Silkoleen Pro Fork oil.
Whilst doing this work I replaced the original Yamaha progressive fork springs with Ohlins 8.5 N/mm linear springs, again suited to my weight.
The Outcome:
Firstly I am really pleased with the overall improvement with the bikes handling, I have heard terms like ‘The bike feels more planted’ and ‘I feel more confident cornering now’ and that ‘The bike turns in better now’ and to be honest I think the terms that have been used are accurate.
There is a twisty bumpy lane near me (1/3rd mile Rat Run) that has quite a few holes and uneven surface areas (Not fair to call them Potholes) but it’s a lane that I ride at about 35 - 40 MPH because it shakes the crap out of me and because I know that the bumps and pits are coming up I tend to brace myself ready for them (Wrong, I know) and the bumps travel up the forks and give me stick in wrists, elbows and shoulders and generally p----s me off.
I found myself riding down said lane the other day at about 50 mph thinking to my self could go faster,
Of course I was still feeling the bumps, but, they are not jarring anymore and the bike feels much more stable.
Since then I have taken the bike out on the infamous A272 in Hampshire (Petersfield to Winchester) a sweeping road that is great for biking, (Be warned speed cameras are a regular feature along its length)
I have noticed that powering hard out of corners the forks tend to feel as if they topping a bit, so I may need to replace some of the fork oil with a higher viscosity oil, to stiffen/slow up the rebound as bit. This should also help with the compression damping and might mean I have no need to adjust the emulator setting by another ½ a turn.