Weird revving issue and bike wont idle

[Ebme Geek]

Happy days 
 
fingers crossed, I take it your idle is ok now
 
You said when you took the carbs off, they were prety rank, was there any sign of water in them, if so check your tank, otherwise the problem will re-create itself 

[jonest27]

Happy days 
 
fingers crossed, I take it your idle is ok now
 
You said when you took the carbs off, they were prety rank, was there any sign of water in them, if so check your tank, otherwise the problem will re-create itself 

Didnt really give it time to warm up to check the idle properly as it was still on choke.
Dont think there was any water in there and there was no rust just loads of gunky crap. but I wouldnt know how else to check for water also when taking them off and putting them back on it was pissing down, so I guess if I was testing for water that would have given me a false postive.
any way you know of to check the tank?

[unfazed]

We will make a good Foccer out of you yet.

Good to hear it is running.

Keep us posted

[Buzz]

so I guess if I was testing for water that would have given me a false postive.
any way you know of to check the tank?

Darrsi swears by adding 200/300ml of isopropyl alcohol to every other fill-up to absorb any water...will also prevent any carb icing in the winter.

[darrsi]

so I guess if I was testing for water that would have given me a false postive.
any way you know of to check the tank?

Darrsi swears by adding 200/300ml of isopropyl alcohol to every other fill-up to absorb any water...will also prevent any carb icing in the winter.

It's true.......I do swear. 

[jonest27]

So,
All seems good so far!
Took the bike to work today (even though I for got to put the airbox coversand side panels back on!)
Then on my lunch I went for a ride for half hour or so when it's warmed up it idles great now when its cold it need lots of choke though, is this normal?
Most bikes i've had I can turn the choke about 3/4 of the way off after a mile or so, but with this I still need it 3/4 of the way on until it's been run for 10 miles or so. Maybe just needs some fine tuning?
Not sure what it should be like as I've never had it running properly.
What's your guys experience with this?


Thanks

[darrsi]

On very cold days i'll put the choke on first, then start the bike, and leave it running for about 2-3 minutes, then switch the choke off.
I can't imagine riding it with the choke on, it must run like a pig?

[jonest27]

On very cold days i'll put the choke on first, then start the bike, and leave it running for about 2-3 minutes, then switch the choke off.
I can't imagine riding it with the choke on, it must run like a pig?

Before I cleaned the carbs it would only idle with the choke on so I had to.
It runs ok with it on but when you turn it nearly all the way off it gets jerky, like you going over bumps in the road!
Leaving it running in the mornings is not really an option for me, I've recently had noise complaints from my new neighbours for starting the bike at 06:30 every morning lol so I have to start it and drive off this is why I been leaving the choke on.

[unfazed]

In exceptionally cold conditions it could need the choke to idle for up to 5 miles, depending on your driving conditions, in town or out of town, it will obviously take longer to heat up in start stop traffic or if like me your first 3 miles is mostly down hill.

Some of the later Foxeye models had a blockages caused by Swarf stuck in the heater circuit which was documented by Yamaha. It was usually the left hand carburettor and just required removal of the pipe and some poking with a piece of stiff wire to dislodge it and blow it through from the right hand side.

Did you check the pilot jets before you refitted the carburettors?

[Jules-C]

Mine only needs the choke to start on cold mornings and by the time I've put my helmet on the choke can go off and it'll idle happily.  If I leave even half choke on it'll cut out the first time I have to stop at lights or junction after about half a mile.

[Fazerider]

It suggests the bike's running a bit lean: like Jules-C, mine only needs choke if the temperature is below 5˚C and even then it can be eased off after a minute. Perhaps the cleaning didn't shift all the muck out of the slow jets… were they blown through and checked or did you just rely on the ultrasound?
If you're sure they are clear then it might be worth adjusting the mixture screws out a bit, mine are just 1.8 turns out, but I recall reading that others on here found as much as 4 turns was needed on theirs.

any way you know of to check the tank?

I've not tried one as I've a Mac which they apparently don't talk to, but USB endoscopes are ridiculously cheap. This one looks as if it should be small enough to make the tight bend needed to get completely into the tank for inspection purposes.

[jonest27]

I've not tried one as I've a Mac which they apparently don't talk to, but USB endoscopes are ridiculously cheap. This one looks as if it should be small enough to make the tight bend needed to get completely into the tank for inspection purposes.

That endoscope idea is bloody genius!
I'll definitely try that at some point

[jonest27]

Some of the later Foxeye models had a blockages caused by Swarf stuck in the heater circuit which was documented by Yamaha. It was usually the left hand carburettor and just required removal of the pipe and some poking with a piece of stiff wire to dislodge it and blow it through from the right hand side.

Did you check the pilot jets before you refitted the carburettors?

Thanks for this
The left had carb was the one with the blocked pilot jet the mechanic who cleaned them unblocked it for me and checked the others. He said the others were not too bad but cleaned them up too.
Mine is a 2002 Foxeye
Any chance you've got a pic of the pipe? or do you mean the left hand coolant hose that runs to the carb?

[jonest27]

It suggests the bike's running a bit lean: like Jules-C, mine only needs choke if the temperature is below 5˚C and even then it can be eased off after a minute. Perhaps the cleaning didn't shift all the muck out of the slow jets… were they blown through and checked or did you just rely on the ultrasound?
If you're sure they are clear then it might be worth adjusting the mixture screws out a bit, mine are just 1.8 turns out, but I recall reading that others on here found as much as 4 turns was needed on theirs.

Also, the mechanic set mine to 2 turns out so I may adjust them a bit too.
One weird thing I noticed today though, if I adjust my idle screw the idle goes up and I can set it to wherever, but the next time I jump on the bike (even a few hours later) it's like it's gone back again.
The mechanic did say though that it might take running a couple of tanks of clean petrol through for things to settle down, so maybe just a waiting game?

[unfazed]

See attached, the few I have come across was always this carb remove the two rubber pipes and poke the stiff wire through from both sides.

Blow it through, when I did my own originally it was difficult to blow through, once cleared it blew cleanly and the icing issues disappeared.

When finished blow it through right to left and it should be ok. If not repeat the process for each carb.

Pilot Screws

The 2002 and 2003 foxeye carbs have different shape pilot screws and are set at 2.5 turns out, all the boxeye 600 are all 2 turns out.

The Foxeye will not tick over cleanly when hot at 2 turns out.

4 turns out on the pilot screws usually refer to the 1000 Fazers which have been Ivanised.

[jonest27]

See attached, the few I have come across was always this carb remove the two rubber pipes and poke the stiff wire through from both sides.

Blow it through, when I did my own originally it was difficult to blow through, once cleared it blew cleanly and the icing issues disappeared.

When finished blow it through right to left and it should be ok. If not repeat the process for each carb.

Pilot Screws

The 2002 and 2003 foxeye carbs have different shape pilot screws and are set at 2.5 turns out, all the boxeye 600 are all 2 turns out.

The Foxeye will not tick over cleanly when hot at 2 turns out.

4 turns out on the pilot screws usually refer to the 1000 Fazers which have been Ivanised.

You're a star mate!
Thanks for taking the time to get me those pics
I'll definitely set the screws to 2.5 turns out and see if it makes a difference, I dont really fancy taking the carbs back off to do it though, so I'll see if I can reach them without if not I think I'm gonna order one of these http://goo.gl/iUs4L1

[Fazerider]

Pilot Screws
The 2002 and 2003 foxeye carbs have different shape pilot screws and are set at 2.5 turns out, all the boxeye 600 are all 2 turns out.
The Foxeye will not tick over cleanly when hot at 2 turns out.
4 turns out on the pilot screws usually refer to the 1000 Fazers which have been Ivanised.

I recall Red98's boxeye ended up at 4 turns out, and his Colortune was telling him nearer 5 was optimum... it didn't solve what turned out to be an electrical problem, but the details are somewhere in the infamous stuttering thread.

[jonest27]

Pilot Screws
The 2002 and 2003 foxeye carbs have different shape pilot screws and are set at 2.5 turns out, all the boxeye 600 are all 2 turns out.
The Foxeye will not tick over cleanly when hot at 2 turns out.
4 turns out on the pilot screws usually refer to the 1000 Fazers which have been Ivanised.

I recall Red98's boxeye ended up at 4 turns out, and his Colortune was telling him nearer 5 was optimum... it didn't solve what turned out to be an electrical problem, but the details are somewhere in the infamous stuttering thread.

It's hailing and blowing a gale at the moment. I dont mind working on the bike in the rain, but I'll draw the line at hailstones lol.
When I'm able I'll try adjusting the screws and see if I can get them set right.
That Stutterin thread is huge! over 1000 replies it would be like searching for a needle in a haystack for those comments lol

[unfazed]

Generally the Fazers run slightly rich, which is why they take well to a K&N filter without out any adjustment. 

The Foxeyes ran slightly better at Idle due to changes in the pilot circuit and I would suggest you adjust yours to the standard settings first to get it working and then play around with it if you want.

You do not have to remove them completely just lift them up through the frame adjust the screws and pop them back down again.

The advantage of lifting them up is that you can see what you are doing and is probably a better bet if you are not used to doing this type ofwork.



 

[jonest27]

Ok, I know what the issue with not been able to adjust the screws is.
The issue is me!
Turns out I'm still a numpty!
Let me Keep a slice of my dignity by saying carbs look a lot different off to on.
When they're on you can see each screw clearly
When they are on there are so many holes and screws.
I was putting my screwdriver in a hole with no bloody screw!
Turns out I can reach all the mixture screws, I reck on I'll een reach number 3, just gotta wait for the bike to cool down a bit firstand then I should be good.
I've set all the others and it's sounding sooo much healthier.
I'll post back when I've done number 3
Thanks all of you for you're help

[jonest27]

So, all seems to be good now!
Not sure if all screws are perfect as it's quite hard to judge whether the screw has turned sometimes. Especially on that 3rd carb, the space is so tiny you'd need really little hand sto get in there properly, but I turned it to about where I think it should be and the bike is now idling fine
still needs a little choke till it's warmed up properly but after that it's fine.
So it looks like I'm all sorted.
Just wanna thank everyone one here again for their input so thanks again!
Cheers