You will require a tool of some sorts to replace the oil seals should be doing more than oil and spring change, many like myself have found suitable alternatives and much cheaper from a plumbing supplier for a diameter that fits round the fork stanction to tap new seal in.. Plus worth spending a little extra for quality seals that have a more compliant rubber than harder rubber type cheap ones. so you not have to do the strip down again for another 5 or more years.
Also depending on your mileage it may be worth considering re-newing the top and bottom fork bushes again I did mine at 45K miles though mine did not show much signs of wear to the teflon coating which could of been down to regular fork oil changes, got my bushes from brooks suspension. may as well do the dust seals at same time as save in the future, a small amount of tape round top of stanction will protect new fork seal when slipping it onto the stanction, myself I smear a little red rubber grease onto new seal also to aid fitment you could just smear a little new fork oil, you will also need some sort of measuring stick to help measure new fork oil level I use a ruler and move 10mm up the measure from bottom of ruler so that I can see when the level is nearly correct, and wrap a cable tie at the correct measure of the rule so it rests on the top of the stanction and prevents whatever you choose to measure with does not vanish into the stanction you are filling with oil not something you really want to happen ... , will make more sense when you come to do the job.
I did once try 10w fork oil but found this way to harsh for my liking and now only use 5w .
My choice was to change springs to hyperpro and made a noticable difference so worth thinking on new springs which ever make you choose to go by.
A tip when commencing work is to slacken the allen bolt at the bottom of each fork leg before slackening off the yoke clamps and should they spin and not release a suitable shaped broom handle when you have removed them will stop the offending rod within the fork from spinning allowing you to remove bottom allen bolts this also aides when you refit and tighten the bottom allen bolts....not too complicated a task and with winter time to take it slow and do the job well. there is a good link somewhere and sure others have their own tips and tricks for making the job simpler.
Also woth noting all you settings before hand so you have a base set up to return to when competed along with measuring how far down the rod the nut on rod within fork is that the top rebound/preload adjustment /cap sits on you will see this when you get to point of removing fork cap.