Please confirm my chain+sprocket fit guide

[keratos]

1. Remove rear caliper and hang out of the way

2. Remove rear wheel axle nut and adjuster nuts, and disc (Shop manual section 7-12)

3. Remove sprocket nuts (x6) with wheel off bike ensuring nuts are loosened in criss-cross pattern around the sprocket. Remove sprocket NOTE ORIENTATION

4. Remove shaft, spacers, rear dust seals and bearings; use long screwdriver to tap out bearings making sure to tap around the bearing evenly when pushing out otherwise inside of wheel can be damaged or bearings become stuck (at an angle) in the wheel.

5. Apply lithium soap base grease liberally to axle, bearing and a bit around the seal lips.

6. Replace bearings; use socket of just 1 or 2 mm smaller than the bearing outer race diameter and use this to gently tap the bearing into place. Insert new dust seals.
parts here: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/00/picture/rear_wheel_bearing_kit_with_dust_seals/

6. Fit new rear sprocket (noting correct orientation) and reassemble rear wheel components remembering to use criss-cross pattern when tightening sprocket nuts. Sprocket nuts to 60Nm. Put wheel to one side

7. Break chain with tool using correct pin size to ensure pin travels through link hole when pushing pin out

8. Remove gear selector MAKE NOTE OF NOTCH MARK LINEUP

9. Remove the front drive sprocket cover (4-2). Remove cover nuts in criss-cross pattern around the cover. Remove cover gently so as to be able to reuse gasket.

10. Remove sprocket nut and washer (NOTE ORIENTATION). To assist removing nut place wood between the wheel to prevent shaft turning; use wood that is not hard so as to mark the wheel. Use wrench or socket with pipe or extension attached so as to gain max leverage. Whilst applying tuning force push down on the shaft end of the socket/wrench.

11. Fit new UPGRADED sprocket and nut/washer (USING CORRECT ORIENTATION) kit
info here
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,92.0.html
http://www.bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=379&motorcycle=Replacing%20The%20Chain%20And%20Sprockets%20Fazer%20600%20-%20By%20Ren%20WIthnell&info=1
parts here http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/yh-90891-10124/

12. Tighten up
Front sprocket nut to 70Nm

13. Run chain over front sprocket and over swingarm

14. RIVET  chain with riveting tool. Measure , using electronic vernier caliper, the diameter of an existing rivent and rivet links to the same diameter, going slowly, checking each turn or two.
MAKE SURE BEFORE RIVETING THAT THE CHAIN IS CORRECTLY FITTED OVER FRONT SPROCKET, OVER THE SWINGARM.

15. Refit rear wheel and tighten axle nut so it is not loose but able to move via chain adjuster nuts.

16. Set chain freeplay to 38mm (the looser side of halfway between spec 30-45mm). Measure at midway length of chain and measure using a rule set on top of a link and measure upto the seat. Push chain up and down. Adjust nuts to move wheel so that freeplay is 38mm.

17. Refit caliper and tighten rear wheel components
Axle but to 117Nm
Locknut to 17Nm
Caliper nut 40Nm

18. Refit front sprocket cover. Tighten up nuts in criss-cross pattern
Cover nuts to 10Nm

19. Refit gear selector AT SAME NOTCH POSITION AS 8 ABOVE

20. Lube chain


RIDE !

Any additional advice/tips welcome

Thanks

[His Dudeness]

A bit of a warning, replacing a chain and sprocket isn't the hardest thing in the World to do but things can go wrong so I hope you've got a bit of experience/common sense with tools. What I'd do is first try and crack the front sprocket nut off as that's arguably the hardest part to do and if you do the nut first and it goes wrong you've still got a rideable bike that you can bring to a bike shop. If you've got an impact gun it should be a doddle to get it off. If not put the bike on the ground, put it in gear and lock the back brake and give the nut a good heave with a pipe on the end of your ratchet. Hopefully it'll undo and your threads will be in good condition. If it doesn't come undone and it's seized on you need to be very careful not to give it too much force and damage the nut. If you can't get it undone bring it to a bike shop and ask them to rattle it off. The other possibility is that the nut has already spun itself off

If you get the front nut off you can move onto the rear sprocket nuts. Again lock the back wheel and undo the rear nuts with a pipe on a ratchet if you need the extra leverage. Some heat and penetrating oil will help. Once you've got everything loose then brake the chain. You'll obviously have to take the rear wheel off next to get the rear sprocket off so it's a good time to give everything a clean and grease where it needs it.

You should get the larger front sprocket nut and new tab don't reuse the old ones. Reassemble everything and use Loctite on the front and rear sprocket nuts. Torque them to spec using a torque wrench. Tighten the rear sprocket nuts gradually in a crisscross pattern like it says in the workshop manual. I assume you're using a rivet chain? If so they can be fiddly, don't expect to get it perfect the first time you rivet the link, just do a bit then check it, then do a bit. That's just a rough idea of what I'd do, it's not a how to. Use your common sense and stop if you think you're doing damage. To answer some of your questions you don't need to remove the clutch cable just let the cover dangle. You don't need to soak the chain in grease just oil it as normal when it's all together. Best of luck with it

[keratos]

That's a real real help
Thank you

I do have and plan to use, an impact gun

I have loctite ready

I have the service manual for help

Did this before on a cbr 600f but about 10 years ago... Just couldn't remember it to well. It was fairly simple from what I can recall.

Thanks for the good tips

[keratos]

I am going to replace the front drive sprocket and lockwasher with this P/N 90891-10124
http://www.bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=203
From here:
http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/yh-90891-10124/
Is this correct for my FZS600 2000 model (being changed regardless of need/affected years - its only a few quid and its coming off anyway as a sprocket/chain DID kit is going on)

First time I'm attempting this and need foccers help please...

1. I am going to replace the rear wheel bearings at the same time. Do I need to replace the bearing oil seals too? Please can someone provide a pic-by-pic with notes that you may have taken during your rear wheel bearings change because the haynes is kind of unreadable (to me) and the Yam shop manual makes too many assumptions/refers to special equipment (pullers) . Also prefer to read an article that is from "the real world"

2. Please can someone provide pic by pic with notes for removing the chain link and revetting a new one in. I have bought a tool from preloved but came with no instructions so not sure how to use it, came with no instructions. Pics of tool and parts included. 2nd pic has the parts inverted  to show both sides of them. the round thing with a flat edge (top left) - I've got two of these, just forgot to include it in the image

3. My new chain is a DID 530VX gold and the instructions on the back say "connect old chain to new and turn the wheel ?? what - connect old to new??  and then to use a connecting circlip included to close the chain?? WTF  - a clip to hold the chain together WTF - I thought this chain could be rivetted on?? HELP!

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE

[papercutout]

These are the instructions that came with my one (and I managed OK):

[keratos]

thanks but its not the instructions for my tool and I do not "get it" for my tool with its specific bits n pieces that come with it. Thanks for trying though and appreciate the time taken to upload

[papercutout]

My DID chain came with a clip link too. You can buy a rivet link easily enough:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DID-530-50-VX-VX2-X-RING-GOLD-CHAIN-RIVET-LINK-MASTER-LINK-SOFT-FREE-POST-/181482041978

[keratos]

My DID chain came with a clip link too. You can buy a rivet link easily enough:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DID-530-50-VX-VX2-X-RING-GOLD-CHAIN-RIVET-LINK-MASTER-LINK-SOFT-FREE-POST-/181482041978

if they come with clip link , then the clip link must surely be compatible - and safe? I just wondered? like I said its a 530VX-X ring chain so heavy duty = heavy duty clip , or do we all advise use rivet links???

[papercutout]

Everyone seems to advise rivet links, although I've kept the clip link on mine for the moment. There are horror stories both ways, and people saying they've run the clip ones on bikes for 20+ years with no problems. It's a personal choice imo - although I trust a rivet link more, the clip was supplied so I'll run it for now.

[keratos]

Voting added

[darrsi]

I presume you're familiar with the expression "The Weakest Link"


Well it wasn't Anne Robinson who created it!


The thing is, if a comparison was to be made, then a correctly riveted chain will always have the edge over a split link chain which has more chance of possibly coming apart, so taking into consideration the speed these bikes are capable of then i can only suggest going for the strongest and safest option which would be riveting.


If you feel the urge to debate about your safety, then feel free, but to me this is a no brainer and just common sense.


The last time i used a split link was as a kid with a push bike, and d'ya know what, a chain fell apart on me then, so the thought of that happening at anywhere up to 140mph doesn't really seem too appealing. 

[keratos]

I have no idea about this topic which is why I 'started the debate' ... The DiD kit comes with a clip... If unsafe then why provide it. The chain it comes with is a 530vx !!  All I was asking for is views. Thus far we have 1 using rivet..1 using link. So your view is not 100% but I am interested in learning and listening to ALL views. It may well be 100% rivet..I don't know... Which is why I was asking for help... Not a debate

[darrsi]

And help, along with my personal opinion, is what i just gave you! 

[richfzs]

You're getting people's opinions - which is all you're ever going to get on a forum (or most other places as well!). You just have to decide which people you trust.

For me, I've read more than enough places that split links are only good on the smallest of bikes, and any chain I've bought has never come with a split link. It's rivet only for me.

As to why you got one with your chain - dunno. Where did you get it from?

[papercutout]

Despite having a split link, I recommend a rivet link. Just do it properly. I was in a middle of a road trip across Europe when I had to change mine, so didn't really have a choice, and I've only been back for a week.

[keratos]

OK. A consensus albeit just 2. That helps and now I'm convinced albeit only 2 but I asked for help and your advice is what I have received so I shall listen to it and install rivets
Thank you

[darrsi]

You're getting people's opinions - which is all you're ever going to get on a forum (or most other places as well!). You just have to decide which people you trust.

For me, I've read more than enough places that split links are only good on the smallest of bikes, and any chain I've bought has never come with a split link. It's rivet only for me.

As to why you got one with your chain - dunno. Where did you get it from?

I was wondering that too, mine have only ever been supplied with the soft rivet links before?

[keratos]

And help, along with my personal opinion, is what i just gave you! 

yep. Agreed

[keratos]

You're getting people's opinions - which is all you're ever going to get on a forum (or most other places as well!). You just have to decide which people you trust.

For me, I've read more than enough places that split links are only good on the smallest of bikes, and any chain I've bought has never come with a split link. It's rivet only for me.

As to why you got one with your chain - dunno. Where did you get it from?

Agreed.
The DID kit cane from bitzforbikes.co.uk who I have used many times before. The clip is in the DID box containing the chain so it is DID I assume who fell this is acceptable?

[keratos]

I am going to replace the front drive sprocket and lockwasher with this P/N 90891-10124
http://www.bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=203
From here:
http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/yh-90891-10124/
Is this correct for my FZS600 2000 model (being changed regardless of need/affected years - its only a few quid and its coming off anyway as a sprocket/chain DID kit is going on)

First time I'm attempting this and need foccers help please...

1. I am going to replace the rear wheel bearings at the same time. Do I need to replace the bearing oil seals too? Please can someone provide a pic-by-pic with notes that you may have taken during your rear wheel bearings change because the haynes is kind of unreadable (to me) and the Yam shop manual makes too many assumptions/refers to special equipment (pullers) . Also prefer to read an article that is from "the real world"

2. Please can someone provide pic by pic with notes for removing the chain link and revetting a new one in. I have bought a tool from preloved but came with no instructions so not sure how to use it, came with no instructions. Pics of tool and parts included. 2nd pic has the parts inverted  to show both sides of them. the round thing with a flat edge (top left) - I've got two of these, just forgot to include it in the image

3. My new chain is a DID 530VX gold and the instructions on the back say "connect old chain to new and turn the wheel ?? what - connect old to new??  and then to use a connecting circlip included to close the chain?? WTF  - a clip to hold the chain together WTF - I thought this chain could be rivetted on?? HELP!

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE

Ok guys, I'm listening... You have convinced me
May we turn to questions 1 and 2 please. What are our opinions on this.... Any practical examples pic by pic would be a real help. Appreciate your continued support and advice

[midden]

I have no idea about this topic
 which is why I 'started the debate' ...
 Which is why I was asking for help... Not a debate

Well there's a dodgy link, or is it a contradiction.
Discuss

[darrsi]

I have no idea about this topic
 which is why I 'started the debate' ...
 Which is why I was asking for help... Not a debate

Well there's a dodgy link, or is it a contradiction.
Discuss

Been done before, just go for the superior option.......always!

[His Dudeness]

You seem to have a gift of rubbing people up the wrong way Keratos Rivets have less chance of falling off so I use rivets. That's seems to be the general consensus among most people. I've used clips on a 125 but that's it no way I'd use one on a 600. It's best practice to replace the seals but you don't have to. Replace them if they look worn or damaged or if there's dirt or rust around the bearing. If the bearings look clean then the seals should be ok to use again. If you google motorbike rear wheel bearing replacement you should get a step by step way to do it. All motorbike wheel bearing replacements are basically the same. There'll be two bearings and a spacer between them. You'll need to get a drift and catch the edge of the bearing and knock it out. Then the spacer will come out. Then knock the other side out. When you're installing the new bearings make sure you seat them with something that's the same size as the outer part of the bearing and don't hit the inner race or you'll damage the bearing. Also be careful not to push the bearing in too far or it will lock up and you won't be able to turn it. Again with replacing the chain just google motorbike chain replacement and they're all basically the same. If you've got a link to the tool you bought put it up and someone will explain how to use it. RE the instruction that said to" join the old chain to the new". That join is just a temporary join. You could use a bit of string if you wanted. It's just to get the new chain around the sprockets. You don't have to do it if you don't want to. You can just break the old chain off and carefully feed the new one around by hand.

Ah I can see the pictures of the tool now. Basically there are pins and there are backing plates. Some of the pins are for pushing out the old rivet and some are for riveting the new link. You need to select the correct diameter pin for the chain you're using so that the pin can pass through the hole in the chain. With the backing plates some have holes in them to allow the old rivet to be pushed out and some are solid to allow you to rivet the new link. Have a look at these instructions they're pretty comprehensive

[keratos]

You seem to have a gift of rubbing people up the wrong way Keratos Rivets have less chance of falling off so I use rivets. That's seems to be the general consensus among most people. I've used clips on a 125 but that's it no way I'd use one on a 600. It's best practice to replace the seals but you don't have to. Replace them if they look worn or damaged or if there's dirt or rust around the bearing. If the bearings look clean then the seals should be ok to use again. If you google motorbike rear wheel bearing replacement you should get a step by step way to do it. All motorbike wheel bearing replacements are basically the same. There'll be two bearings and a spacer between them. You'll need to get a drift and catch the edge of the bearing and knock it out. Then the spacer will come out. Then knock the other side out. When you're installing the new bearings make sure you seat them with something that's the same size as the outer part of the bearing and don't hit the inner race or you'll damage the bearing. Also be careful not to push the bearing in too far or it will lock up and you won't be able to turn it. Again with replacing the chain just google motorbike chain replacement and they're all basically the same. If you've got a link to the tool you bought put it up and someone will explain how to use it. RE the instruction that said to" join the old chain to the new". That join is just a temporary join. You could use a bit of string if you wanted. It's just to get the new chain around the sprockets. You don't have to do it if you don't want to. You can just break the old chain off and carefully feed the new one around by hand.

Ah I can see the pictures of the tool now. Basically there are pins and there are backing plates. Some of the pins are for pushing out the old rivet and some are for riveting the new link. You need to select the correct diameter pin for the chain you're using so that the pin can pass through the hole in the chain. With the backing plates some have holes in them to allow the old rivet to be pushed out and some are solid to allow you to rivet the new link. Have a look at these instructions they're pretty comprehensive

Now that type of response is all I was asking for. Absolutely perfect. That's all I was asking for.
I seem to have a gift of triggering comments that rub me up the wrong way ... Not always but sometimes., and not from all members, sorry! I'm only asking for help that I can understand through a rationale. Just because soneonbe says 'do it' doesn't mean I follow because I like to understand a rationale as to why. I feel that's important on a forum as it in life generally. Just my own mindset. I don't mean to rub people up and I value all comments so I will think about how I can express my requests so that people understand better and do not feel rubbed up. Thank you for bringing this to my attention, and thank you one again for that wonderful insightful post which helps me to comprehend the procedure AND the supporting related rationale

[keratos]

sorry Dudeness - just realised the link you provided. Great. not the same device but same sort of principles and feel ok about doing the job.
Also, bearings, I suspect price/quality vary and steer clear of eBay ?? so are these ok: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/00/picture/rear_wheel_bearing_kit_with_dust_seals/
What can I use as a drift? socket ? or something better that people use when DIYing ?