Any DIY experts on here?

[Rikki]

How would you go about sealing this gap? It's a bit too big for silicone. There was previously something like this stuck on there:

http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/tiles/adhesives-sealants/sealants/-specificproducttype-sealing_strips/Homelux-Flexible-Bath-Seal-White-L-3-5m-9277966?icamp=recs

But it wasn't doing a great job of keeping the water out & went a bit manky. Is there anything better I could use?

[midden]

Failing removing sink and tiling behind I think I would fill with grout and then when dry run sealant along back.
If you were really adventurous and have whole tiles spare cut out a tile using tile saw to fit in to the wedge and around side of sink. But really the gap is too small to bother imo

[fazersharp]

You can do that with silicone just mask off a straight line across the bottom tiles and mask the top of the sink, fill up with silicone and use a credit card to wipe along, leave a short while and then spit --- yes use spit as its nice and slimey and does not stick now take the tape off and then wipe along with the spit card - dont be tempted to over work it or leave it too long or you will get wrinkels.
Oh and while you are at it ----clean that tap !

[ogri48]

As midden or fazer sharp says. If you really want to fill it you could make a small dryish  mix of sand, cement and plaster, trowel it in quick ( the plaster makes it go off very quick) smooth it flat whilst it's still workable, gloss paint it white the next day. Not only does the plaster make it go off quick, but it makes it go off hard too, something to do with the chemical hydration reaction.
 It's handy for me for things like when I've fitted a kitchen if someone else is doing the floor tiling and they only tile partway into the area the washing machines going back into..I cam make opus the difference in floor height with the plaster enhanced screed mix, and twenty minutes later I can run a washing machine over it without it gouging out.bizarrely, the plaster makes it go off like concrete, but without the hassle and time involved waiting for it to cure.
You may find that the speed of the reaction cause a bit of shrinkage, if you do get a hairline crack just finger ( phewoar phewoar) some caulk into it before you gloss
Atb
Paul

[Mattsplat]

Duct tape fixes everything 

[midden]

 I wouldn't personally  use only  sealant/silicone because I think the large space is hard to get a good finish. Although that could be my lack of skill.  As fazer says, it shouldn't be over worked and the grout to me keeps some kind of continuity. 

Incidently if you find the silicone quite runny to work with put it in the fridge for half hour  

[fazersharp]

the large space is hard to get a good finish. Although that could be my lack of skill

I supose it does take practice.
Another way is to get a lenght of bull nose cloaking upvc it will be about £3 for 5m 3mm thick x 40/50/60 mm wide - whatever you need and the cut out the sink profile where it drops off on each side and the sitck that on with silicone. the trick for a good silicone finnish is mask everything off except a 3 mm overlap and smoth that with your finger - wait for it to go off a bit and then spit and finger again ( phewoar phewoar)

[esetest]

I would cut a tile with a tile cutter or saw , if you don't have those tools available , I would fill the gap with grout  ,once that has hardened up , seal the gap with sealant , fill the bath with water before applying sealant , apply sealant , I finish it with a ice lolly stick which I dip in washing up liquid , leave the bath filled up for at least 24 hrs .

[Rikki]

Thanks for replies all. Decided to go for the cheapest/easiest option which was to fill it with silicone using fazersharp's masking & credit card method (had half a tube left from doing the bath last weekend). Not sure if I'm all that happy with the finish, will wait & see how it looks when dry. Also fitted some shiny new taps!

[fazersharp]

Ill give you 3 out of 10 for that (sorry)
Next time a little more silicone and swipe the card in one smooth go - do it a few times if you need to but one smooth pass
To be fair it was a tricky one if you have not had much practice with silicone. The thiner part on the left look spot on. When you take off the masking tape and wet and smoth again it flatens out the masking tape edge too
Glad we could help tho 

[midden]

the large space is hard to get a good finish. Although that could be my lack of skill

I supose it does take practice.

Sorry I was in part being polite


and sorry again but better to silicone without masking tape as it results in high edge which can get pulled up when  tape is removed.

[midden]

I would cut a tile with a tile cutter or saw , if you don't have those tools available , I would fill the gap with grout  ,once that has hardened up , seal the gap with sealant , fill the bath with water before applying sealant , apply sealant , I finish it with a ice lolly stick which I dip in washing up liquid , leave the bath filled up for at least 24 hrs .

I've cut similar round plug socket before (younger days didnt think to remove sockets) cutting to aprox 1/2cm from tile edge  using one of these.  delicate job
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141218759304?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=95&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=95


BTW  An ok job Rikki it'll serve the intended purpose

[dazza]

Got to agree with Midden about not using masking tape. I have done this professionally for a few years and have an NVQ 2 in sealant application(for what that's worth). I would shave a point with a Stanley knife on a short length of wood the width of the desired bead, cut the mastic tube nozzle at a 45 degree angle at the same width. Making sure that the surface to be sealed is squeaky clean and dry. Where you've already had a go I would cut all mastic out with a blade or chisel leaving the mastic in the large gap. Then lay down the bead of mastic from the gun, stopping every time you took another pull on the trigger to keep the flow consistent. Doesn't matter if the bead looks a bit lumpy at this stage. Then, take a handheld sprayer filled with water and a bit of fairy liquid and spray it all over the mastic bead. then, spray the end of the wood you've prepared, hold it at about 30 degrees to the mastic one end and shave it off running the length of the bead, flicking the residue on the wood into a container with a splash of water and fairy to prevent it sticking. You don't have to do this in one go, you can stop and flick off the mastic when it starts to pile up on your tool you've made. This really will give you a professional finish and if you foc it up, wait for the mastic to go off, cut it out and try again.
BTW...Top marks for cleaning the tap. 

[fazersharp]

and sorry again but better to silicone without masking tape as it results in high edge which can get pulled up when  tape is removed

Yes it does thats why I sad this

When you take off the masking tape and wet and smoth again it flatens out the masking tape edge too

[midden]

and sorry again but better to silicone without masking tape as it results in high edge which can get pulled up when  tape is removed

Yes it does thats why I sad this

When you take off the masking tape and wet and smoth again it flatens out the masking tape edge too

Yeah you did, and I did think about acknowledging the fact having read on and seen it after I'd posted but feeling sure others would read both posts and therefore in the knowledge I decided not to drag it out and in to a yeah but, no but conversation.   


Can we talk bikes

[fazersharp]

Ive put some black silicone in my cracked carb inlet rubbers 

[dazza]

Ive put some black silicone in my crack and I'm wearing a rubber 

[Lazarus]

the large space is hard to get a good finish. Although that could be my lack of skill

I supose it does take practice.

Sorry I was in part being polite


and sorry again but better to silicone without masking tape as it results in high edge which can get pulled up when  tape is removed.

Electrical tape is better than masking tape - no high edge and the silicone doesnt stick to it as bad.

[midden]

the large space is hard to get a good finish. Although that could be my lack of skill

I supose it does take practice.

Sorry I was in part being polite


and sorry again but better to silicone without masking tape as it results in high edge which can get pulled up when  tape is removed.

Electrical tape is better than masking tape - no high edge and the silicone doesnt stick to it as bad.

That's one to note ........though i tend to free hand and use wetted finger or cloth to shape in and wipe the edges at same time [size=78%][quote [/size]
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[/size][size=78%]author=fazersharp link=topic=12354.msg138161#msg138161 date=1396208445][/size]Ive put some black silicone in my cracked carb inlet rubbers 

Oh cool idea, make do and mend approach, has it worked well and did you use a heat proof or standard silicone

Ive put some black silicone in my crack and I'm wearing a rubber 

No chance of you getting pregnant then

[fazersharp]

Oh cool idea, make do and mend approach, has it worked well and did you use a heat proof or standard silicone

Just normal which is heatproof anyway and it dont get hot enough there