Author Topic: Down pipes (Read 4956 times)

hightower · « **on:** 22 March 2014, 09:44:56 am »

Down pipes are blowing, is this a good deal for replacement?

hightower · « **Reply #1 on:** 22 March 2014, 09:45:43 am »

http://www.sandybikespares.co.uk/fzs600-fzs-fazer-600-exhaust-pipes-downpipes-frontpipes-headers-127-p.asp

fazerboy01 · « **Reply #2 on:** 22 March 2014, 10:56:39 am »

I've heard good things about those, personally I chose these

http://www.delkevic.co.uk/?section=shop&product_category=exhaust_s7rhj&sub_category=downpipes_8mrlp&product=yamaha_downpipes&variant=fzs600_fazer_9703_downpipes__stainless_steel&start=0&search_term=&order_by=

Good finish, good clean fit, clean up well after a winter of neglect.

Hope that helps

hightower · « **Reply #3 on:** 22 March 2014, 01:57:34 pm »

Did they come with gaskets as in my link or where those extra

fazerboy01 · « **Reply #4 on:** 22 March 2014, 04:25:14 pm »

yeah, came with all 5 gaskets. Only word of advice I'll give is if your changing them, start soaking the header nuts/studs in "Plus Gas" now, about twice a day or more untill you do the job. It'll possibly save you the greif of snapping studs, which is a pain.

hightower · « **Reply #5 on:** 22 March 2014, 04:26:44 pm »

I've got some good stuff I use - not sure what it is exactly, a friend gave me a jam jar of it - it break the rust down somehow.

So, Sandy or Delkevic is the question - if you say they come with everything needed to fit?

Skippernick · « **Reply #6 on:** 22 March 2014, 04:30:08 pm »

The Delkevic's appear to come with the balance pipes between 1+2 and 3+4, which is good, like the originals.

hightower · « **Reply #7 on:** 22 March 2014, 04:56:54 pm »

Ok, ordered the Delkavic. Will start the releasing fluid on them today.

fazerboy01 · « **Reply #8 on:** 29 March 2014, 01:40:50 am »

How ya got on mate?

hightower · « **Reply #9 on:** 29 March 2014, 06:55:58 am »

Snapped one stud, so need to get that out, but not today as heading up to Glasgow to see paolo nutini with the missus. Paolos good but I'd rather get the bike sorted lol

hightower · « **Reply #10 on:** 30 March 2014, 07:53:31 pm »

hightower · « **Reply #11 on:** 30 March 2014, 08:00:43 pm »

So as you can see, my bike is in pieces. Which means one thing, when I went to get the snapped stud out I made it worse, snapping it flush with the head. I know on #3 people say you can drill it in situ, but for ease I decided to start and strip, and also plan on painting while it's off - it's long overdue for that lol!

So tonight I got down to getting the top cam guide off. I'd been at it a few hours and decided to stop so I don't rush and make a hash if things. The hardest part was getting the tank off. I've got a full tank and my fuel tap doesn't shut it off hehe.

Anyway, I don't think it will take much longer now to get the head out. The carbs were slow work.

I need to take front cam guide out next but couldn't see how - any helpers?

red98 · « **Reply #12 on:** 30 March 2014, 08:08:32 pm »

front cam tensioner does come out but its tight for room....think i may have looseded the rad bolts to make it easier........that a 70s z200/250 you got there ?

hightower · « **Reply #13 on:** 30 March 2014, 08:17:40 pm »

It's an '82 z440 (see sig for project, although not done anything with it yet due to Fazer issues).

Wondering where to buy my replacement gaskets. What gaskets will I need, a head and a valve? ANything else?

red98 · « **Reply #14 on:** 30 March 2014, 08:21:43 pm »

just the head gasket,bought one a while back for £30,wemoto i think,are the exhaust gaskets re-useable ?

ah a 440....dont see them anymore

hightower · « **Reply #15 on:** 30 March 2014, 08:24:43 pm »

The exhaust gaskets came with stainless pipes, so that's ok. I don't need a gasket for valve cover? What about cam tensioner? Nothing else, just head - that makes it easier.

Yeah - they tend to be popular in America, not so much UK. I got it for £350, runs (needs starter motor), but plan on stripping it right down and turning it in to a brat.

hightower · « **Reply #16 on:** 30 March 2014, 08:26:42 pm »

What size helicoil kit would I want when I drill it? This one?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-Piece-Helicoil-Thread-Repair-Kit-M8-x-1-25-x-10-8mm-/271245164223

Or an M6?

red98 · « **Reply #17 on:** 30 March 2014, 08:29:21 pm »

think iam right in saying....M6 for 600...M8 for 1000....can someone confirm

red98 · « **Reply #18 on:** 30 March 2014, 08:31:52 pm »

valve cover is rubber so re-useable........just had a peek at your blog,nice looking bike that...good luck with the build

hightower · « **Reply #19 on:** 30 March 2014, 08:34:43 pm »

Thanks buddy. More worried about Fazer for now - first time I've gone so deep in to its innards. Nerve racking.

hightower · « **Reply #20 on:** 30 March 2014, 08:43:02 pm »

The cam and followers removal looks complicated - can anybody offer some first hand step by steps to help me through it

unfazed · « **Reply #21 on:** 30 March 2014, 09:31:01 pm »

Removing the stud
Grind the stud flat within a few mm to the head, put a good deep punch mark dead centre and use a lefthand drill bit to drill it out. I have found that this method often spins the stud out. Start carefully with a 3 or 4 mm bit and work up. I usual use a 3mm bit to start, but they are easy to break if not extremely careful. If unsure start with a 4mm.

Removing the cams.
More of a fiddly than difficult job to do.

Take your time and make sure you have access to a good quality torque wrench when putting it back together as cam caps bolts only require 10Nm torque.
Remove the Alternator cover and line up the marks (T mark with the crankcase mating point at the front) Cam marks should line up exactly or within a few mm. If they are not within a few mm of the marks, it indicates chain wear and might be worth considering changing the chain. Post a picture of the cam marks looking down straight as it is difficult to judge from the picture you have up.
Remove the Tensioner cap bolt.
Remove the cam Chain tensioner
Remove the cam chain guide.
Now the inlet cam first.
Loosen all the cam cap bolts a little first in a crisscross pattern, both sides should be treated as one whole piece.
Now loosen bolts evenly to about 1.5mm above the cam caps.
Cam caps may be stuck in place due to the tight tolerances of the dowels.
If cam caps do not move tap them gently. They might pop up with a crack and scare the crap out of you.

Keep unscrewing all 11 bolts (Guide bolt is already removed) evenly a little at the time until they are all loose enough to be removed and there is no pressure on the cam caps,
Remove the cam caps and the 6 dowels. Try not to drop the bolts or dowels down the chain tunnel.

The cam caps must go back on the exact same place and way they were removed.
Lift up the cam and roll it towards the front of the engine, lift off the chain and tie it up. The cam must also go back in the same position.

Now do the exhaust cam.

hightower · « **Reply #22 on:** 30 March 2014, 09:47:15 pm »

Does the chain need to be kept tightly tied, or just so it doesn't fall? The cams are aligned at tdc, so should be ok.

Thanks for detailed write up. Should drilling like that be successful or just if lucky? What about front cam guide, how do I remove that?

unfazed · « **Reply #23 on:** 30 March 2014, 10:13:03 pm »

Quote from: hightower on 30 March 2014, 09:47:15 pm

Does the chain need to be kept tightly tied, or just so it doesn't fall? The cams are aligned at tdc, so should be ok.

Thanks for detailed write up. Should drilling like that be successful or just if lucky? What about front cam guide, how do I remove that?

Just so it does not fall, but if it does it is not a huge problem as it can be picked out with a piece of bent stiff or Flexible Claw Pick Up Tool.

It has worked for me 9 out of 10 times and any time it did not there was exceptionally bad corrosion. The reason for leaving a few mm is get a grip with a vise grip to try unscrewing if the 4 mm bit does not twist it out. Most important thing is not to break the bit, so use good quality sharp ones bits. They may need to be ordered specially by your local engineering shop. The problem with using normal bits is that it is inclined to tighten the stud more.

Front cam guide does not need to be removed, but it just lifts out as it is only located in slots and the cam cover holds it in place

Buzz · « **Reply #24 on:** 31 March 2014, 06:32:35 am »

I'd go the rivet nut route...oh.

At least you'll get some other stuff sorted while you're doing the helicoil. Hope you get it fixed without too much bother.