Cylinder head replacement engine out?

[Screwdriver]

Do I have to whip the engine out to replace the cylinder head on my Gen 1 Fazer Thou?


Cheers


S.

[Tmation]

Download the service manual from on here. http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=11

[Dead Eye]

I don't think so - I'm pretty sure you can do it in situ. I know you can on the 600 at least...

[unfazed]

Do I have to whip the engine out to replace the cylinder head on my Gen 1 Fazer Thou?


Cheers


S.

Yes, engine out job. 

[kebab19]

Eh?
No way, I replaced the head on my 1000 after a very rare water pump failure & I can assure you the lower lump stayed in situ

[Screwdriver]

Wow. That's brilliant, thanks for the link to the service file.


I have a Haynes that says take it out but it looks sort of doable, depends on the length of the remaining studs I guess.


I would like to hear from someone who has definitely done it though because it does look really tight.


I have only just replaced the gearbox, only for a cap cap to shatter a week or so later. I hadn't even taken the head off...

Details fazer cam cap

fazer cam cap

Screwd.

[Screwdriver]

Eh?
No way, I replaced the head on my 1000 after a very rare water pump failure & I can assure you the lower lump stayed in situ

Sorry kebab, just noticed you have actually done this before. Many thanks. I'll nip out to the shed now and whip the head off.

[unfazed]

Last time I did one with a friend whose engine dropped a valve, he took the engine out before I got there and he said he could not get the clearance over the top of the studs when he tried to lift off the head.
Good to know from someone who has done it for future reference.

[Screwdriver]

Confused now. Referring to the service manual. To remove the cylinder head: Step 1, take out the engine....




So kebab, you've taken the cylinder head off a Gen 1 Fazer Thou without taking the engine out? The cylinder head (the big part with all the valves in it, not the head cover) clears the studs before it hits the frame?

[Screwdriver]

Last time I did one with a friend whose engine dropped a valve, he took the engine out before I got there and he said he could not get the clearance over the top of the studs when he tried to lift off the head.
Good to know from someone who has done it for future reference.

Exactly what I was thinking. It looks like it nearly does...


...but there is about 10mm of doubt.

[Screwdriver]

So it is possible.


But you have to remove the righthand exhaust stud which fouls the frame.


Found the culprit. A small bolt got in there. Also, while the engine was upside down having its gearbox replaced, all the crud deposited itself in the oil ways.


Live and learn.


S.

[unfazed]

A bit of JB Weld and it will be fine.

I showed my friend the picture with the engine in situ and the head off. His reply was FOC should have waited till you (meaning me) arrived

[Falcon 269]

Bet that sounded nice before it finally decided to stop.

[Screwdriver]

I showed my friend the picture with the engine in situ and the head off. His reply was FOC should have waited till you (meaning me) arrived

Why?

[unfazed]

He did not realise the exhaust studs could have been removed without out breaking them. 

[Screwdriver]

Bet that sounded nice before it finally decided to stop.

Started off being a noticeable ticking, then, with a cold engine, really poor performance. Finally a mad dash down the M1 at the end of which it sounded like a badly adjusted cement mixer.


Very lucky to bag a really nice looking complete head off eBay. In black too for £80.


S.

[midden]

So it is possible.


But you have to remove the righthand exhaust stud which fouls the frame.

So we can rest easy now, in the knowledge that Kebab does in fact know which part is the cylinder head after all
(the big part with all the valves in it, not the head cover) 

Nice pics btw  Christo take note

[Falcon 269]

Bet that sounded nice before it finally decided to stop.

Started off being a noticeable ticking, then, with a cold engine, really poor performance. Finally a mad dash down the M1 at the end of which it sounded like a badly adjusted cement mixer.

Very lucky to bag a really nice looking complete head off eBay. In black too for £80.

I'm amazed it ran that long, especially seeing the state of the cam bearing surfaces.  I assume it's a full engine out and strip to clean all the cag from the oilways and oil pump.  Good find with the new head.

[Screwdriver]

I'm amazed it ran that long, especially seeing the state of the cam bearing surfaces.  I assume it's a full engine out and strip to clean all the cag from the oilways and oil pump.  Good find with the new head.

Nope. Just swapped the head complete, set the valve clearances, filled it up with oil and water, good to go.



No regular updates because incredibly, there is nowhere in London with a head gasket in stock. The very next thing is to bolt down the new head so until I source a new gasket, the mission is on hold. I had hoped to reuse the old one but it looks like that has already happened a couple of time and it's looking a bit flat (!).


I have cleaned and prepped the new head though. I'll try linking a few pics but photo bucket keeps claiming I have run out of bandwidth. A scam no doubt designed to force people to pay for this so called free web service...











The exhaust stud which fouls the frame on assembly came out a treat.


Should be running again within a few days, subject to sourcing a new gasket. Fifty bloody quid mind from Yamaha...


S.

[Screwdriver]

hmm. This seems to be one of the only forums I visit which doesn't rescale images. Thats a bit of a pain...