advice re top end.98 fazer600

[hatterjack]

Hi all,
I'm new to this forum,but it looks like a good place for advice. I have a very sorry looking fazer  600 in my garden which was ridden in all weathers every day until about 3years ago.What happened was that I was attempting to change spark plugs and one disintegrated leaving the outer thread stuck in the head...quite possibly bits of insulation fell into the hole too. Anyway had plans to either fix it myself or pay a man too fix it. But then Oops I went and had a bloody heart attack and my health had to take priority.
Three winters later Now I want to ride again ... any advice... How hard to fix the cylinder head? Can the spark plug remains be drilled out/helicoiled. Cost? Presumably I'll have to get the engine out? Buy a second hand engine? Needless to say the rear calipers seized solid too. probably loads  of other bits wrong but I would like to save it..it was a speedy comfortable trusty all rounder.
Has this spark plug problem happened to anyone else here?

[kebab19]

You might be ok with your existing engine. You'll need to take the cylinder head off, the rest of the engine can stay in place.
When I had broken exhaust studs on my FZS1000 head I took it to a specialist garage where they performed some sort of electro-welding to get the stubs out without damaging the threads. I assume such specialist shops would be able to do the same with a disintegrated spark plug.
While the head is off you could then check for any debris in the cylinder, or even drop the sump pan (after draining oil) to be sure there's no metal anywhere.

There are of course 2nd hand cylinder heads / barrels as well as engines should there be major internal damage.

[Paul]

I once had a similar issue.


Came to change a plug and the whole thing came out minus the threaded bit.  I managed to get it out with a extractor tool.  I don't know the right name for it, but it's threaded the reverse way round so that when you screw it in the more it grips it tries to turn what its gripping anti clockwise.  I think they're called stud extractors.


In any event it worked.


Might be a good idea to warm the cylinder head up a bit if it's been stood in a garden for three years before you try it.

[midden]

surely when the head is off you'll have access to the bottom of the plug to turn with pliers

[Ebme Geek]

Problems I see,
Real question is there is any broken ceramic in there it really should be cleaned out before it scores the bore or damages the piston, have you still got the rest of the plug, and does it look like the ceramic has crumbled.
Which cylinder is it and what is you visibility like, is there any ceramic left in it; before using an extractor ( sometimes called 'easy out' ).  You might want to get the tank & thermostat housing or connection box off if its the other side to get better visibility and access.
 
If the plug hole has been partially open that long then the bore is quite likely to be rusty, also posible valve sealing faces could be rusty, could try some wd40 down the hole, take the alternator cover off and try rocking the flywheel back and forth.  This really depends on what it looks like down the plug hole, and how it feels.
 
If things go well, a compression test will confirm health, before and after a bit of running.   Good luck

[Captain Haddock]

Getting the plug out should be easy enough with the head off, and any ceramic will certainly do damage if left inside so removal is the best plan.
Welding up the hole and allowing to cool often "shrinks" the thread a little enough to loosen it, we've drilled threads out at work many a time and tig welded the hole back up, weld a nut on the end and they come out a treat.
Also a good opportunity to check for valve and seat corrosion at the same time.